bheinen74

good quality Vise Grip, maxed to the highest pressure force it will go. Do not use cheapy off brand vise grip, you want the real deal here. Spray some more pb blaster, clamp that sucker on, and hope it will grip to loosen it.

maybe needs some lube.

Nice of you finding the forum. By your previous and current collection of Subarus, you may be more experienced with Subarus than most of us on here. Enjoy the forum. Also, check out the middle link above Subarus of the 80's, it has links to many cool things.

Those fuzion tires are garbage in every aspect imaginable, that is why they are so cheap to buy, the cheapness entices people to try them out and save 75 bucks on the set of 4. If you want, you should just take 75 bucks and throw in the dumpster, and save the trouble, and drive around on worn out name brand tires which will be better than new fuzions.

your 99 outback probably had the 4.44 gear ratio. that alone is what you are probably noticing. the new ones, not sure what ratio.

can it be done: yes anything and everything is possible. why: not sure what you are trying to improve on.

and don't go trying to win the award for "most stuck and need of recovery" award.

T belt still around? if not, throw another one on to get where you need to be then put new idlers and tensioners on.

unplugged coil pack? unplugged ignitor vacuum hose off.

If someone locates a Roll Bar for me, I will come for that. I am also allergic to the soaps, perfumes, etc.

i was knocked out once when the hatch on my CRX was open, I was standing in there digging around in the back, and when it came down, the latch part shaped like a "U" nailed me in the back of my head, and knocked me out too. hit me in the center of the rear of my head. never been quite right before or after.

you can get to the wiring harness connectors for both taillights too. I routed my CB antenna wire thru one, then into the cab. when you are camping, you could probably put extra gear in there, stuff like trash bags, raincoats, hats, gloves, all in ziploc bags to keep from getting wet or dusty WOFC

Mick, I can tell you need to get ahold of some other complete Subies to part out, too bad they are going for over 500 in the beat up shape they are. All the nice ones seem to be fetching 1g or more, and een those have bad rust. this was the BEST deal i have seen for quite a while http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190382772722&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEDWX%3AIT#ht_500wt_1182

darn this Crusher person.

Guido 1 Ben 0 Just read this thread and I have been chatting with you not knowing this had happened. Hope you are gonna be okay. Guido, well, you will get back at him, he is probably telling you dont mess with me or i mess with you.

your left side arm, face etc, is going to be really muddy after wheeling it; with the red door. I like the silver door, where did that come from

this thread needs "sloppy seconds" lolhope you got it fixed. yeahm on mine i also read the posts to thread in a bolt. Also, same on mine, the bottom bushings was gone too. The bottom bushing is the problem not the above pins. We need to sticky the real fix is the bushingm not driving out the pin and threading in a bolt. Mine was tight as heck on the pin. I recommend ALL on the board with sloppy shifter to check the bushing on bottom first. I am positive we need to sticky this. And again if you search others confirm, so if you read this board, replace the bottom busing first if you have shifter slop.

well, we are going mud offroading as in level B non maintained dirt roads, with a mix of gravel. I also wonder what tire pressure for my 205/75/15 Peerless Baja Widetrack AT's heck what is the normal daily driver tire pressures for that. What is the gravel, mud road pressure recommendation I just found out my driver window squirter is clogged- I have it soaking in CLR solvent bucket now. Once you hit a splash of puddle of mud, if you cant see out the window, you will go in the ditch, crash or worse. Clear windows are the most important in my book, or you might as well put a strip of duck tape over your eyeballs. flats are the next concern, but you can drive on a rim if needed. Good cooling, good clutch, and a gas tank that is full is also key. And dont get too goofed up as in the jeep guys will take a mud hole like it is cake, but we need to stay in the clear and not mess around, take a good line to get thru, not weave into the deep doo doo. When we did the Iowa Campout at ledges, the water hole was cake, drive thru and get out. Remember the road Subiemech took us on, well that was pretty rough, but only a couple miles. The roads we went on last year, were not near that bad for even a stretch of 25 feet. So, your car got thru that in 09, it should get thru this year. If the leaders go off path, dont follow.......or you may get stuck. Stay on the roads, keep your CB on, so i can chat and see how you are. Ben, i think i owe you a lunch or something, so you can get the dinner on me.

the fuel pump "buzzing" is more than a hum even on my 85 BRAT. oh well, it is telling me the car is on. lol since mine is quiet exhaust. the sound is comparible to a microwave oven when on high cooking something.

the failure point on a CHAIN is the idlers, pulleys, and sprockets that hold the gears to the chain. I have seen many timing chain cars and the sprockets centers are plastic and fail, not sure if the subaru timing spocket is plastis or what, but yeah there is not much more benefit. T-belts have a life span, as do the pulleys, bearings etc.

okay my brothers delay cam back about 6 months after the trans x additive was added. It was just added to the trans at the time he bought it, and we drained a cup or so of the normal out then and the delay went away, until it finally came back. Well, it came back, so he drained the whole transmission and filled with new Amsoil synthetic, and i think he just said it was fine again. will report again.

you will have the option of keeping the DRL module enabled, or you can disable it to prevent this and other issues of keeping with it. With DRL module plugged in, you get decreased headlight bulb lifespan, issue of thinking you have lights on, when at night, but with DRL the tail-lights are not on, so this presents a traffic hazard of front lights on, back lights off, cars cannot see you that way from the back. I would recommend to unplug the wire harness going to the DRL module, so you are safer and have longer headlight bulb lifespan. if you need more info, pm me. DRL would actually be safer if they lit the back tailights. if you think about why they have DRL, its so drivers spot your lights. but, WHY don't they mandate backlights/tailights as well.

^ yeah Rally Julia did that last year too. that is a Big Heavy long dodge, not very good except for pulling people out. Fresh oil and filter in the BRAT today. was going to change oil in the SVX since its due, but my WIX for Porsche seal filter is not going to work. Guess I am taking BRAT to work tomorrow and see if i can get a correct SVX filter. Sure wish Mick could go. I think it will be much same route as last year. It may be dusty in places and muddy in others. Looking at the jeeps, the tires look fairly cleaned of mud, but the way the tires stick out and throw mud up on the hood and roof, its due to no mudflaps and tires that stick out the wheel wells. Last yea, it was the same, my Rescue wagon had hardly any mud on the body, whereas everyone else did. 70mph drive home with mud stuck in the wagon wheels, priceless. Steering wheel shakes like crazy with mud in the wheels. Oh, Ben, maybe pam spray the wheels inside and out to keep mud from welding to it.

squegee window scrubber, and big spray bottle of water/windex to keep windows clear., good wipers too.

green coolant shooting out the exhaust?