bheinen74

there is a 1992-94 silver legacy wagon in the pick n pull on hall st in St. Louis in the back row. it was hit in the left doors, center pillar, odometer has 135k miles.. The underhood in still 100% intact. this would be prime for a ej22 swap for someone and the low miles would be a good choice. just fyi for someone, the car was there today. there is also a 96? outback there with a ej22 engine under the hood, front pulley and sprockets were laying loose as if it had some failure. this had sohc heads.

I want to see your gearbox diagram and, that does look like a nice setup of switches

4 looks like for AC compressor if it had one.

it may be a guide for the wire looms that loom inside the transmission near the valve body.

A civic with 230k is more reliable than this Subaru. Civics need: timing belt and water pump, and regular oil changes. Subaru needs much much more, bearings, axles, headgaskets, etc.

ej18 2 door impreza base FWD 93-?

You need to use OEM head gaskets from the Subaru dealer. thats all. you will be fine then. BTW Felpro for a subaru is BAD.

maybe my BRAT: 4" lift Skyjacker rear shocks LSD clutch type converted from 3.7 to 3.9 Weberized Cylops center light conversion Hella Offroad H1 and H4 conversion lights diamondplated tailgate strip CB front brush guard with behind bumper reinforcement special stock but custom skidplate up front 27.5 inch Baja AT's on 15" split spoke pugs with center caps filled Outback leather power seats MWE front axles new radiator new disty new clutch etc etc etc. I will have offroad pics after April 10, the 2010 Mudcoast rally is then.

there were a few Legacies at the 1200 S Santa Fe in OK City pick in pull jy this weekend. You should be able to get what you need there if you need something. some were FWD some were AWD.

he did his swap on a wagon (which had the power option from the factory). Your BRAT, did not have the options, unless you got the turbo brat. I doubt the statement holds for a BRAT.

for the pan to come off, its lots easier to jack up the engine after removing the lower mount nuts of the crossmember, and loosen the dog bone. Just the extra 3 or 4 inches is what it takes to get to the rear pan bolts and to drop it enough to clear the oil pickup system tube. remember to drain your oil first do you have your permatex ultra grey? how much cleaning and wiping did you do to make sure the pan is where the leak is? this is not normal. valve cover leaks at the grommets, and the valve cover gasket are the norm.

is it in neutral?

very nice and clean, and stock and original paint even. keep some good wax on that thing.

I just did a O2 change on my former turbo leg. Fun to remove the chimney to get to it. At least i had only put back in 1 of the 6 chimney 10mm bolts holding it on from way back. It was a breeze.

12 ft lbs. is the number. any more than 20 is enough to warp the pressure plate, the disc, or even the flywheel.

probably used the wrong ATF, its a special from subaru only blend.

the car has issues. my car has issues. hundreds of others with this year 2005/2006 have issues the more that file the complaint and describe what it is doing, the more chance we have of a fix from subaru. the nhtsa database logs the vin number range and can narrow things down and that may help.

The problem is the 2005+ Outback design. mine does it too. my old subarus never did anything of the sort. look at all the posts for others with problems. Everyone is complaining. please file a complaint at: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/Consumer.cfm it takes a few minutes, you need your vin number to do this.

my BRAT battery got pulled. Its now in the SVX so i can take it to OK City. -dont worry, the battery will go back in the BRAT for Mudcoast 2010

changing ATF on a 2 year old Soob? what are your miles.

95 will have ABS 90 will not. therefore, it will fit, but you wont be able to use your ABS sensor, so it wont work correctly.

there are 2 big connectors to the transmission running down by the firewal tunnell. Unlpug the connectores, use lotso dialectric grease, and smoosh into the sockets the special elecrtical grease. Plug back in. That may help, and check your grounds where they attach to the body

high rpms (5k+), with tick, with huge timing advance equals kaboom....

old trick to determine which bearing is bad, but instead of holding the spring, place a stethoscope probe on the spring coil, you will know which one is bad when rotating the tire.

thanks Mike, that was the link i was trying to find. and i think the warranty is just for the rears.