bheinen74

DRL mod?

update 2010 Road Rally Charities! Welcome to a 2010 Road Rally Charities season!!! The crew at RRC is EXCITED to bring you our 5th season of rallies and automotive driving events--and we're very excited to reconnect with you this season! We hope you're ready to put your driving gloves on, check the air in your tires, and join us on some RRC events in 2010. Please check out our email updates throughout each month to find out what is going on with your RRC leadership team and to learn about upcoming events. Though it's only the beginning of March and there's still a foot of snow on the ground, we know that after this long winter you're ready to see the RRC season begin! So without further ado.... ****************************** ********** MudCoast Rally Our major free event of the year to celebrate our season kick-off is one of the most unique rallies we put on each year. (Key word from last sentence--"FREE"). This event may very well be called "SnowCoast" for this year--so we'll just have to see how it turns out... We'll announce MudCoast rally the week of the event--and it will be held on a Saturday. Don't worry--this Saturday is off limits--but starting next week--it could very well be any Saturday in March or April. We'll meet in the morning for breakfast and then set out on the back roads of rural Iowa. With various contests throughout the day, rarely will there be a dull moment. Last year we explored Warren County in all of its Level B glory... this year....? We'll eat lunch somewhere along the route, and try to get you back by late afternoon. We'll then host Happy Hour at 5pm for all of those that want to share pictures, find out who won the contests, and well.... help clean each others' cars... (just kidding.... kind of). Keep your eyes out for the MudCoast Rally and get your vehicles ready...

depends what year car, for instance pulling fuse on my 06 caused the brake light, and the ABS light to come on, and it disables the cruise control function with those to lit up. on a 99 outback, you can pull the fuse and not have it disable cruise. etc. now the ground is warming, i have put the fuse back in. In summer its fine for me, but not winter months,

Dual-range 5-speed manual transmission (2.0R MT model) This transmission further improves the moderate yet brisk and solid shift feeling normally associated with a longitudinal layout while providing improved noise reduction and drive feeling. An auxiliary reduction gear with hi-low selection is a traditional feature of Subaru that preserves driving performance in steep up hills, towing and similar conditions. I like reading the reply comments on the last link.....

it has about 100% failure of the turbo. Its due to the banjo filter blocking the oil flow to the turbo, also can cause bearing failure in the engine. Be warned. search and you will find answers on http://www.legacygt.com/, same engine and design.

pretty sure the bigger one is for the turbo wagon/ej22t would make sense that the smaller is for N/A

nice pic. thats the exact place my 95 LegL wagon silver bomber broke its ej22 block on my drive home with it (bought it with rod knock for 200bucks) and proceeded to drive it home. Sold it with a good ej22 not installed for 700. anyhow mick, what are you up to these days. what did you trailer home.

stilll planning on this. Anyone else interested? Mick, Ben, Dennis???hello

we have legos, and can make the best of whatever we want, using older parts in newer cars, and using newer parts in older cars, etc. Long live the legos. Too bad the Subaru engineering crowd doesn't frequent the forums more often,so they can see how badly they are doing on reliability these days, and how longevity that used to be, is not how they have turned. At least the sales numbers are up, and that is all that matters in hard times.

if you plan to keep the car forever, then yeah oem. The oem ones lasted 200k but non oem will not last that long on avg.

my guess is 304 tooth vs 307 tooth.

I would probably be in for some 14"s then i woud probably get some swampers for them and then offer up my 15" pugs.

02, then reset the ecu by removal of battery posts for the overnight

I have 3 of those multimeters: 1 was never returned by the neighbor he lost it, 2nd got returned by other neighbor but its melted by an exhaust manifold, and i have 1 that i am never going to loan out again without a deposit.

^ 4 year bumps.

no

do not torque with the wheel on the ground, or that axle having car weight on it. need car off ground and brake the caliper with a prybar/punch either bracing the stubs, or the vents. If you torque it with weight on the car, it will have a tendency to warp the rotor, and or bearings and hub. Tighter can warp the rotors and cause bearing failure. Torque it to SPEC please.

dial up warning= painful death, and i have dsl it was slow to load. but, nice pics, nice fun.

make sure the choke is closing when the engine is fully cold, and have the air cleaner off looking at it as the engine is warming, the choke flapper should open slowly as it warms up and stay open fully. there is adjustment on it too. My newly rebuilt weber arrived with the choke coil in BACKWARDs, so as the engine warmed up, it actually was pulling choke on (closed). otherwise, hard to tell, sure sounds like a choke issue.

Was that light on before the swap? Does the light read "ABS" or does the light read "AirBag" You didnt take out the center console airbag controller unit when you put in the shifter console for the 5speed? The thing under the radio, in front of the shifter, is the airbag brain, with yellow connectors.

I think what we are saying is, you can find SVX easiy, cheaply under 1g for a complete running, but non drivable car (toasted transmissions to be had in about 90% of them that are for sale). So, you can get your EG33 in a SVX that runs, but to test what the engine does, is going to require you find a pricey one with a known good transmission. the ones you see advertised for 500-2g, have mostly unknown trnasmissions. You can install your motor in one of them, and let it rev, but you are really not going to be able to drive it to see. For one that has a good transmission, known good, expect to pay at least 5g. Sure, some out there run and drive for 2g, but the trannys slip like grease monkey slips on a banana peel, that is why they are cheap, heap. you need to go find a svx.net member who has a good strong SVX, engine and trans, and pay him to let you ride along on a stretch of drag strip. Then you can have drive mash the skinny pedal and see what the engine does,. If you pay me enough, I will let you do that with mine and you can be the one controlling the skinny pedal. oh, and if you are wondering why the transmissions fail, it is due to the INCREDIBLE power output of the EG33, combined with the heavy 4000 pound SVX pig. When you romp the skinny pedal, the AWD trasction will not spin your wheels, there is no place for slippage to occure to the ground, so the slippage occurs in the friction clutch plates, also there was a "design" flaw in the transmission line pressure due to 1. heat, and 2. cltuch disc material blcoking flow as it disentegrated from the torque converter, and clutch packs.

Vanagon Porsche Justy, not so easily I love my EG33, it is where it belongs

I could probably have my dad make up an adapter including starter flywheel mods, etc, this spring to the 2 speed PG, he has quite a few laying around that are rebuilt ready to go. I would want to get a WRX to try it out though and up the boost My dad worked for GM for 41 years, in the service department, and he KNOWS Powerglides better than about anyone. he used to buld them for his racing buddies

only the 82 BRAT had it, last year was 82. it was available on other models 1980, 1981, and the Brat 1982 I bought a 82 parts BRAT soley so i could use its Cyclops to install in my 85. Love it.

Pretty sure on the 82 it was standard on GL http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/literature/brochures/1982-brat-g.jpg