subestyle18

I am looking for a replacement fuel door for my 07 outback, i cant seem to find any or a part number online. I was hoping to order one that was already painted. Any help would be great Thanks David

i would look at Blue Sea Systems from the marine industry, there "saftey hub 150" would meet your needs, maybe a little overkill. To simplify it you could use the "ST blade fuse block" for all but the fan, (30A max per circuit, 100A for the block) and then run the fan off its own maxi fuse block. I installed there "weather deck" in my car, to run lights, fans, ect but i didnt use relays. Switches and fuses all built into one panel. i just built my own little loom and it was a tidy install. looking online at fans, i am surprised that yours draws 40A, most 16" single fans are around 8A and dual fans around 16A. Is the 40A the surge draw when starting. That surge is accounted for in ratings and you should pick a fuse based on the operating current. If this is true then the ST blade fuse block would work great. as for a relay block i would find one off a car in a junk yard with enough circuits for your needs, a lot cheaper then buying one.

pressure plate fingers point towards the TOB when uninstalled, pretty much vertical when tightened onto the flywheel. (same as old part) no obvious cracks or stress marks on the fork. I did not move the pivot stud, is this something you can adjust? didnt think it was possible to machine that much off the flywheel, im just scratching my head thinking of possibilities... i'll take a picture tonight, im going to the local subaru guru to pick his brain. I've installed clutches on these 2.2's with 5mt twice before with no issues thats why im at a total loss.

just finished replacing the clutch in my 93 legacy (cable clutch) here is the previous post one of the springs in the clutch plate had come out, one of the tabs on the TOB broke off and retaining springs were missing. new clutch kit from excedy #15010, had the flywheel turned with everything bolted together the clutch fork can has no resistance in its entire traval. the throw out bearing only makes contact with the pressure plate once the fork is maxed out against the tranny case. i measured all the old parts (pressure plate and throw out bearing) and they are the same dimensions as the new on. Even tried with the old pressure plate installed. the travel on the TOB and clutch fork seem normal, the TOB slides to the end of the smooth section on the tranny shaft. I can not figure out where this extra space is coming from, it is roughly a 1/2" that the TOB can move freely. Is there any chance that the machine shop took that much material off the from the fly wheel. Is there any kind of spacer between the fork and the TOB. Would a bent fork cause this? I feel like i am missing something obvious but i have had the engine on and off the tranny three times now it i cant figure it out. im open to any possibilities thanks

reposted in new gen forum

release lever = clutch fork? moved the car into the garage, made quite a racket this time, something is loose in there.

adjusted the nut on the cable about a 1/4 inch, did not change any of the symptoms, it did increase the spring pressure on the assembly (harder to push the pedal in)

local subaru guru thinks that the clutch came apart... i have pulled the engine when i last replaced the clutch. not too hard, is pulling the tranny easier. what is the preferred method for a clutch job. what brand clutch do you suggest. the last one i installed was the cheapest option at the time.

93 legacy 5sp with a cable clutch, 235k miles. the story shifted fine yesterday. This morning let the car warm up for a min (low of 5f last night), Put it into reverse made a funny grind clunk noise, backed up, put it into first and made a u turn onto the street, went to shift into 2nd, and it wouldnt go. Stopped, with the engine running and it wont shift into any gear. engine off, it shifts fine into gear. put it into first with the engine off and started it up, drove back home in first gear. my observations clutch pedal, cable and fork linkage appear to be in working order. clutch pedal returns when foot is removed. grommet around clutch cable is cracked. it appears to me that the clutch wont disengage. my guess the clutch fork is broke, bent. If this is true will the clutch pedal return? less likely something fell into the clutch through the open grommet causing the clutch to stay engaged throw out bearing? im not an expert but not sure how it would cause this issue. new(er) parts clutch has around 70k on it, worked fine no slipping clutch cable was replaced with dealer part 6 months ago (anyone seen the clutch cable Car Quest sells, not good)

I have a 93 legacy awd with a manual. I have one tire that went flat on the highway and needs to be replaced. The rest of the tires are quite worn and will be replaced in the spring when i take my snow tires off. My spare is full size with almost new tread. What and how much damage will i cause running the spare for another month? 1500 miles including a 700 mile trip from seattle to bozeman. on a side note: if anyone has a used tire in a 185/70/14 in the seattle/woodinville area between now and sunday, id be happy to buy it from you.

with the green plug connected, and ign. in the on position. ( i believe im doing it correctly) the light continuously flashes (no long no short). The same as when the plug is disconnected. I have a feeling that it is a loose connection caused when i pulled the dash out. I have unplug and repluged everything i can get my hands on under the dash, but the light still flashes???

black and green connectors are disconnected and battery sat disconnected last night to try to clear them again, still flashing.

After pulling the dash (heater core) and replacing the intake man. gasket the car had a flashing check engine light that would come on as soon as the car starts. This then would turn to a solid check engine light after driving. Checked the codes, o2 sensor, pluged it back in... cleared the codes. No cel. The next day the flashing light is back as soon as the car starts. The car is running great, getting good gas milage, starting fine in 0f degree weather. I can't find anything about a flashing cel except a misfire on obdII cars. I am driving from Bozeman MT to Seattle on tuesday and would like some reinsurance. Thanks David

edrach thanks for the info. From my understanding all 2009 radios can accept the ipod adapter, which then displays track artist info on the radio and allows control of the ipod through the deck or steering wheel controls. The upper level radio has an mp3 input, which i am pretty sure that is just a headphone input. In my experiance the adapter works better as it uses a true line out and inputs into the deck a high voltage (4v i think) which allows for better sound quality and at a normal volume level.

Thanks for the info. I found the adapter for 140 on the internet, so we are going to go ahead and order that. Im in Montana and the car is in Seattle or i'd take a look and see how difficult it is to access the back of the deck, that was my major concern. thanks david