subestyle18
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Everything posted by subestyle18
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i wonder how handling warranties will work through amazon? killer price though way less then autozone. I wonder if autozone will price match with amazon
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your buggy is going to have A/C how nice, purdy engine though mines covered in oil
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I pulled the y pipe off to put a new set of gaskets in, and found that one of the 2 to 1 elbows that is pressed fit to the end of the y pipe had come completly detached. A little jb weld and some exhaust repair wrap and it looks like it is sealed up. If not i'll have to find a junkyard and get a new one. dave
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The copper rtv is rated for exhaust temps, some of the boats i used to work on just used the rtv and no gasket so i know it handle it. I had scraped both faces smooth with a razer before installing the gasket, and torqued all the bolts evenly. I'm going to pull it a part again and see if maybe one of the gaskets were defective in some way. As for the oil, yeah i probaly need a higher weight, i cheaped out on the quality last change to since i was low on money. In an old engine i used to run 25w50 hd oil and it didnt leak much but is a lot more expencive. Thanks for the adivice
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Alot of people swap rear disks off a turbo car (ea81 and 82) You need backing plates, calipers, disks, and the hardware. Stainless lines instead of rubber help too. I'll tell you that when i did the swap my car deffently locked up faster. You can get them from the junk yard, and someone is usualy selling them on the for sale board. i got mine with a set of pads from edrach for $75 or something
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I had an exhaust leak between the block and y pipe. I put in new gaskets (napa brand) and torqued the bolts down. The leak was pretty much gone, you could hear it a little bit. A couple days of driving the leak was back. I retightend the bolts, only 2 were some what loose. Then i moved to Bozeman Montana (MSU) so i've put 800miles on it and the leak continued to get worse, and now is louder then it was orginaly. I've check the bolts and they are tight. I'm about to pull them off and goop some high temp RTV sillicon in there to see if that helps. Any suggestions on a better method would be great. All so i have devoped a nice oil leak on the drive over, seems to leak only when running, and expecialy when im running hard (ie freeways are 75mph here at 5000ft elev.) How much does a reseal on a engine cost normaly. Thanks David
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I was wondering if anyone has a good picture or discription of the alternator adjustment bracket on a ea81 that works with the 105 amp gm alt. It seems like my stock subaru one is no where close to working. I've ground down the pivot mount and it works. Thanks
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front lifts during accel, maxes out suspension
subestyle18 replied to WoodsWagon's topic in Off Road
a 30" tire weighs a little more then the stocker that the suspension was designed for. I higher performance shock may slow the extension. I would have thought that the extra weight of the ej22 would keep the front end planted. other fix would be to get AWD -
I am looking to get rid of unessacary hoses from my ea81 with hydro heads. I have am running the weber so i have no need for emission components. I've seen a picture a while back from qman of a clean engine, but that was years ago. thanks
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I need to replace the rear window in my 93 legacy wagon. I have the old one completely removed, but am kind of lost when it comes to pulling one out of a junkyard car. I called around and most glass retailers want $200 for a new one. Any advise would be great, i am almost tempted to pull the whole rear hatch from a junk yard car, rather then risking braking the glass in transport. Thanks
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As far as i know there is nothing made for subarus. Theirs a weber adapter that i've seen pictures of. Shadyirshmen had a nice one for a jeep that he mod'ed to fit his ea82 wagon. I went to homedepot and got some tube and made my own. If you search for snorkel's you should find. some pictures of different styles. heres mine. The intake is really loud so i ran it farther back so it was behind the drivers window. I Also built a screen to keep water out of the filter.
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Hatch is mostly restored!
subestyle18 replied to haunt's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I think if you painted the inside of the spokes (where it is usualy black) the same color red as the car it would be look pretty cool. Anyways that is one very cherry hatch. Mabey toss on a weber and a little exhaust work so you can really apreciate the true subaru sound. -
"I've made a cover for the filter to keep water out" David
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Heres a outside shot of mine. I've made a cover for the filter to keep water out and painted it all to match but this picture is a little old. I ran sheat metal screws through s.s. hose clamps and into the fender to hold it all on there. Its really strong i can stand on the pipe and it doesnt budge. David
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Yeah thats what it is but it sure does the job. Nothing wrong with a little backyard engineering right. I have 3" pipe all the way to the carb from the filter, beats the 1" x 2" on the hitachi's air cleaner. Seemed to run better then even the stock weber air filter, And sounds way better.
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They are out their some one has one on the board search for the snorkle thread you'll probaly find the picture on their. I made one out of stuff at home depot for under $20 used the bottom of an old air filter to make a wider flange and then found a 3" pvc piece with a flange on it and then mated them together and siliconed it up. Run that to an elbo and out the fender with some heavy duty vent hose. Be awear that the noise level at the airfilter on the end is quite loud. I had mine at the top of the drivers window and it was almost deafining at highway speeds with the window down a crack. Im just going to extend it a little farther back so its behind me.
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93 legacy with 2.2l, it has been leakinking coolant since friday morning, from the bottom of the thermostat housing. Replaced housing gasket, ran (not driving) car for a 1/2 hour no leak. Drive car for 45min starts leaking. Replace housing and waterpump, leak stops. Run car for 30mins no leak. Drive car 20min leaks from bottom of housing. Hoses are new radiator has been tested. No water in the oil. I did drive through a very deep puddle on thrusday night is the only adverse thing that happened right before it started leaking. Any help David
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Heres how it looks in my legacy. I made this little pannel the left switch switches the gauge between the two batterys. The right switch is the override for the relay. up is auto connect down is auto disconnect. The blue top is in the sub box in the rear. This allows me to run short runs of smaller wire from the battery to the amps instead of trying to run a large cable from the front. I just have to run a 6awg through a fuse and the relay from the front battery to the one in the rear.
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Isolators are fine but you lose around 5% of your voltage which brings a fully charged 12.7v battery to around 12.1v. Solenoids are cheap and provide a lot of options, in connecting and disconnecting batteries. Qmans 165amp alt is huge, but you do lose about 5 hp per 50amps. I know qman has the power to turn that big guy but with my fairly stock 71hp I’d rather not take away another 10hp. My opinion is that if you have the battery capacity to run your needed accessories for the duration you want, then go ahead and run a smaller alt. The alt. can recharge while you’re not draining the system. That’s one reason I chose to use a hand crank boat trailer winch, over an electric one. It has double reduction gears and is rated with a 3500# working load. Run that off a snatch block and you are set. It’s a whole lot cheaper and lighter and doesnt pull huge amounts of amps.
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The red top has 1100cca's and 55 AH, the blue top has 1000cca's and 75 AH. I had 4 55W lights and 2100w's of stereo. All the acc's are run off a seperate switch and fuse pannel. ( http://www.bluesea.com/ ) All these are marine rated, so most are over kill for a subaru but ohh well ( if your looking for high quality electrical componets in the seattle area go to Fisheries Supply ). That whole charging system is swapped into my legacy now to run the stereo. I'll probaly just run one group 31 blue in my off road car, i like how it looks in the spare tire holder. heres a pic of the switch and fuse pannel in my custom dash i made.
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Heres my setup while it was in my 83 wagon Red top for starting, group 31 blue for the deep cycle. The two boxes by where the snorkle tube exits are a ACR (automatic charging relay), it lets you pick a voltage for where it connects and disconnects the batterys. Has a override connect and disconnect switch inside. The other one is a three stage marine battery charger wired into the system. I used this when i was hanging out listening to music. Or if i wanted to top off the batteries for what ever reason. I have a gm 105 amp alt now too. I used to work at big marine store and got all the goodies for cheap.
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I picked up a 93 legacy sedan for the engine. I swapped it into my wagon. While driving the sedan home i felt that i handled better (cars have simalar miles so i assume parts are simalar worn). My question is a sedan set up stiffer then a wagon or does it just feel like it since the sedan is a little lighter. I assume every thing can swap over, springs struts and sway bars. Just wondering if it is worth my time. Thanks David
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Well i was mistaken on the #'s it is cylinder 3 and 4 that arent firing. I also swapped the coils so the the ecu is working with the the coil it orginaly came with. Would thier be any other complications if the ecu and coil came from the same car but the engine/cam sensors did not. Im about to check the timing but dont really understand, even if the timing is off, how it would not let the rear coil fire at all. David mWell i was