subestyle18

I have a 93 Legacy. I just swapped engines from another 93 went to start and i wont fire. Tested spark and i get none from the 2, 4, cylenders. They both fire from the rear coil. Both engines ran before the swap (broke something internal on one) and ive tried both the coils from the two cars. I wondering what would cause this to happen. From what i have read the cam angle sensors tell the coils when to fire. But one plug on each cam fires. My guess is that i have a loose/ disconnected wire but after hours of searching i cant find it. I did change the timing belts when the motor was out but am 95% sure that i did it correctly and the motor is in time. Thanks David

Im currently in the process of rebuilding an EA81. I took the engine into a machine shop and they quoted me $600 for the work that needed to be done. This engine ran fine when i disasembled it but i though that it was probaly a good idea to have it worked on before i put it all back together. Heres the brake down $200 for the head work (not including any new valves) $40 to have the cylenders rehoned (i've heard that this is sometimes not needed how do you tell) $50 for Guide work (what exactly does this mean) $190 for a crank kit (was told that it is cheaper then turning the crank it comes with bearings) $89 for a gasket set Im looking for opions is this a good deal, is all of this needed, is there some where in town that people have used and had good luck. Thanks David

Would a 2wd 720 be of any help to you or do you need the 4wd to adapt the hud assembly. I have 2 2wd 720's and would have to agree that their front suspenion is killer. Travel isnt that much better then a subaru but they are completly bomb proof. David

How do the lenght of the toyota coil overs compair the the subaru's? I have those 4" spacer blocks on the stock ones and it seems to me to be a waste. Might as well use that four inches to gain a little travel. I've been thinking of making some bracing for the top mounts too. As for the rear, im happy with torsion bars but am worried that if i lengthen the arms to the hubs (i dont like how when you lift them that the wheel isnt centered in the wheel anymore.) that the increased torq created by the longer arm would over whelm the torsion bars. I guess you could keep clocking untill you find a good match. All in all big flex is nice but i want smooth travel to be able to run rough trails as some speed (baha style). David

looks close to what i have on my wagon, dont worry its going to be changed by the time its running. I had some red rims too for a while i was thinking of doing the oposite of you though, red spokes and black lip. [/url]

the chart i use is at ancorproducts.com under technical information, then technical data, and then conductor size. the lenght of your run is just as big a factor as amp draw. your run lenght is for the whole loop too, there and back. David

Thanks guys looks like a have a little reading to do, but i have the time so bring it on.

Im about to to rebuild an ea 81, (hyrdo long block, delta cams, ea 71 pistons, weber) and am wondering if thier is a some sort of book/manual that would guide me along in this process. thanks David

thanks for the tips i think i might have someone do it, im pretty handy, but im trying to sell this car soon and would rather not damage it any more then it is trying to fix this. David

Well the rear side window in my 92 got broken out (my own fault long story) so i have been looking at it and cant figure out how to remove the left over glass (all along the seal) and then take a complete one out of a junk car and install it in mine. Any one who has done this and had tips it would be great. Thanks David

I ran a group 34 blue top optima where the spare when 900 cca's and 75 amp hours, and also a redtop, 1100cca's and 55 amp hours, in the stock location. I figure (IN THEORY) i could crank the starter for an hour before the batter dies.

Yeah i made the dash out of mdf because the i didnt like the look of the mounts for aftermarket cd players, now the CB is in there. I got the switch as a demo, its rated at 30 amps per curcuit (i have 4 55w lights on one swith and thats only 20 amps, both rad. fans on one, cd player on one, and cb on another) and it has the fuses behind the face, plus the little icons light up. Pretty cool, i only wish it had a ground buss built in but i have a seperate one. That was when i was running two batteries,[/url] an auto charging relay and a onboard battery charger. david

Im not shure it you have access to a good marine store but they will have a much larger selection then any autoparts store when it comes to electrical pieces. I added a fuse switch pannel combo made by blue seas (http://www.bluesea.com/dept.asp?d_id=7997&l1=7460&l2=7997). They also make regular fuse panels where you run a positive and negitive wire strait from your battery and to the pannel. As for location i would pick somewhere that is easy to access, but at the same time is some what hidden to the eye. Somewhere under the hood would work fine as well. PM me if you have any questions i'd be glad to give you some tips. David

Well at a starting point of 74hp a 15hp gain is 20%, that seems like a lot to me. Im just looking to turn my 27"ers up a couple more hills with out having to down ship. FI seems like a soild idea but a little to much work for me right now, i alread have my weber attached to a cone filter so that'll have to do. I also plan to strip as much weight as i can because that can only help. I cant wait to hear this engine run. Thanks for the advise. David

Question about this philbin place. Is their a phone number to contact them and what kind of information would i have to provide to them for the recurve (i already have a reground cam). Another disty question at the same time. At one point i pulled a disty out of an 81 2wd ea-81 wagon, to put into my 83 4wd wagon. The shaft seemed a hair to big and it wouldnt slide into the hole. From what i have read it seems that it is a good chance that the 81 2wd's disty would be a nippon denso unit, If this is true (how does o ne tell?) are all the shafts slightly larger on these units compaired to the hitachi's? Ive collected a hydro long block, weber, reground cam, and some ea-71 pistons and am looking to build my self a little monster. Also any advise on tube size for a new y pipe, I'll run 1 7/8 to a glass pack, no cat, the rest of the way. I've also read that an ea-82 intake manifold will flow a hair better, any point on trying to smooth it out. Thanks for the help David

I'll throw in the old sensor and see if that makes a difference. Im pretty sure that it didnt need to be replaced but the code was thrown due to the fact the the gasket was blown out and it was missing on that cylinder while idleing. The new sensor was a generic one where i had to splice the wires but ive check the wiring and they are all connected and in the right order. What is needed to clear the ecu, just disconnected the battery for 30 sec or what. Thanks for all the ideas i'll start trying some thing new every time before i fill up. David

In my 92 legacy i had the intake manifold gasket blow out cause the o2 sensor code to trip in an effort to locate the problem i replaced the o2 sensor with a boshe sensor from napa. Just screw it in and connect three wires, i dont see how i could mess that up. Before any of this i was getting 25 mpg or so even with the gasket blown out, now with the new o2 sensor i am getting a constant 20 mpg. Any guesses would be a great help. Thanks david

The block is a lost, two holes in it so i'll get out the bfh and something hard and knock it apart. Just kinda want to see the inside. Thanks David

I blew up a piston on my 83 and so i decided to tear the engine apart to have a look in side. I have every thing taken off all the bolts are out. The crank and cam are jammed inside and wont come out. I just cant seem to figure out how to split the two halfs apart any trick or a good place to pry or pound? Thanks David

I've contacted a couple companies that make high angle cv's and you can get the joints for around $150 a set that can handle a constant angle over 30 degrees. So $300 an axel and you still have to built the ends and what not. I've read about cvs that can do 50 degrees so they are out their if you have the money. I was thinking about going to more of a universal joint type but that hasnt proven to be any cheaper and most are just to big to fit. Some day though it would be nice to run 6 inchs of suspention lift. But untill then i can have all the fun want in my 83 with 28"s. Wheeling is more fun then wrenching anyways. David

I used to drive a load of people up to the pass every weekend in my 87 and 83 wagons. Four people and gear, it was floored for the last ten miles every trip. I'd run it at over 4500 rpms for 15 min. or so and never had any problems. Everyone comented that it sounded like an airplane taking off. David

The blue hose is a heavy duty marine air vent hose. Its pretty thick and good for over 200 f. I work at a marine hardware store so it was just laying around. David

Looks kinda like my set up toilet adapter and 2nd bat and all. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8369&cat=500&ppuser=1525

Though i'd let ya know how it worked out. I pulled the code #32 o2 sensor. Replaced that, still a bad idle. Started hunting for vacume leaks and found that the drivers sides intake manifold gasket had blown out, making one of the cylinder miss at idle, that probaly killed the o2 sensor. Replaced the gasket and now im running great. Thanks for the help and the info on how to pull the codes. David

I have a 93 legacy with the 2.2 and about a week ago the idle started surging (500-1000) and idleing really rough. It will even die sometimes when the car is just sitting. Another one of my cars had a simalar problem and it was the coolant temp sensor so i replaced that but it changed nothing. Any ideas would be great. The check engine light will go on at highway speeds but never stays on more then 30 sec's or so. I dont have a reader so i havent pulled the codes. Thanks David