DaveT

The axles come off the differential stubs. There is a roll pin you have to drive out. You need a proper diameter punch. Too small, it can get stuck inside the hollow roll pin, and you have a nightmare problem. The punch needs to be only slightly smaller than the hole the pin is in. You have to at least partially dissasemble the knuckle. Lower ball joint, or seperate the strut from the knuckle. I usually remove both, since it is easier to etc the axle out. But mine are all put together with anti seize compound, so the stuff just unbolts. Might as well replace the seals for the wheel bearings while it's all apart. And clean and grease them too.

This is my collection of measurements of the CTS. temp sensor ohms 14F 7000 - 11500 68F 2000-3000 122F 700-1000 Above are from the FSM. Below are actual measurements. Done at 2 different times, compiled here. The 1990 unit was in a good running engine. The new dealer unit was bought locally, and I made the measurements before installing it to get the extra reference points. measured ohms temp 1990 used new dealer unit 77F - 2390 122F 1154 1098 185F - 400 190F 454 - More measurements from some runs in 2020 - Temps measured with a Fluke62 max+ IR thermometer. Voltages while running, connected to the ECU with a Fluke 77 Multimeter. Ohms after / before, while off, connected to ECU, same meter. temp ohms volts 79F 1108 2.73V - 1130 2.79V 77F 1139 2.81V 193F 259 .680V - 262 .714V - 268 .735V 192F 242 .652V

I bought one from a Subaru dealer a number of years ago. I figured $3.00 per year the old one lasted wasn't too bad a deal. Need a new one every 30 years. They can fail without triggering the ECU to set a code. If it is telling the ECU the engine is hot, it won't pump the extra fuel needed to start and run a cold engine.

Which engine is this about?

A lot of the inferior quality things - regardless of aftermarket or OEM - is driven by those that shop only by price. Too many think the cheapest is the best deal.

I run Amsoil 100% synthetic. The inside looks a lot more like the OP pics. No black crud on the covers. Burning gasoline.

I have not had that kind of failure rate either.

The little piece that holds the cam seal is round where it goes into the carrier. You can twist it while removing / installing. Just have to line up the holes to get the bolts in. I put a little oil on the oring and the seal lips. Only press the seal in until it's flush on the outside - they will go in too deep. The bolts I have removed from these have always been clean with normal torque to remove, since they are oiled by the leaks.

I have one OemEM one that the balls had gotten damaged on. Put in new balls, and it's been fine. Another, had worn (I could see wear in the cup) from being on the left side of cars, I put it on the right, and it's been fine. Both got dissasembled, cleaned, regreased, new boots before I installed them. They have been good so far.

I'll have to look through mine later and see. And check the FSM. There were 3 versions for a while. As I remember at the moment, one had different spline count, the other 2 were the same, except one was slightly heavier, and used on 4WD.

Look at the ends at the transmission - Do they have ribs? Look at the ends at the knuckles - are they painted dark green? If yes to both, they are most likely OEM.

I had one shipped from CA to CT. No problems at all. It was in 2014, I don't recall the company name unfortunately.

What installation procedure did you follow for the timing belts?

I have some OEM ones that have the ribs like the one on the left. I re did a few with generic silicon boots from Amazon, so far so good.

The axles slide off the stubs on the differential, the oil stays sealed in the differential housing. Which is part of the transmission for the FWD. You need boots and CVJ grease. Might be worth getting the axle hub seals and replacing them also.

All of the OEM ones I have are painted a deep dark green on the outer surface of the cups, especially the outer end.

Yes, it takes a pretty good leak to get visible smoke from the intake gasket leak. The gaskets I use are the Subaru made ones, they are not cardboard. I've had those cardboard aftwrmarket ones fail at least twice in me. And they were Fel Pro brand.

Need a FSM, and a voltmeter. Check for power, check for grounds. ebay, or someone may have a link to a scan.

They stopped making these models long before cabin air filters were invented. You have to remove the dash to get the heater box out, disassemble it, replace all the eaten off foam, clean every duct, the core, the A/C evaporator, etc. with bleach. When you put it back together, put 1/4" hardware cloth over the 3 holes in the firewall that bring in fresh air. Technically, you also have to clean those passages. Been there, did this. Took a week. I HATE mice.

If you have OEM axles, clean, re-grease, reboot. All of the aftermarket are junk.

Intake manifold gaskets. One of the 7 cooling system hoses. Radiator in poor condition. Check it at least once per day. Even then, some of these can fail worse suddenly, leaving you low on coolant and over normal temperature. If that happens, sooner or later, head gaskets. Check things until you find it and fix it.

On the ECU, there is an LED, visible through a hole. Normally, it's mounted to the underside of the steering column. I am not extremely familiar with the XT, but EA82 SPFI, I have been maintaining since 1988. The TPS has adjustment for the angle, so you can set the idle switch. You should be able to get it close enough just by making sure the marks from the screws overlap the same places. The FSM has procedures for adjustment and checking the function of the switch and the pot.

oddly, they don't seem to show torque for the pump mounting bolts. The nuts on the studs that hold the pulley and fan are 6.7-7.7FtLbs. So I would not go above that.

CAm seals don't leak sitting. There is also an oring behind the little piece with 2 bolts that the cam seal is pressed into. The OEM ones get hard and leak also. The new ones I've put in are viton, and don't get hard. I'll see if I can find the torque spec. But yes, something like that sounds about right. The idler pulley - do you mean the one with teeth? I replace the bearing on those. It's a standard bearing, just make sure you get contact seals- if the description does not specifically say contact, they are not good for this application.

Those bolts sound a little loose.. I don't remember the torque spec off the top of my head. They are small, not grade 8, screwed into aluminum, so they aren't "head bolt" tight either.