DaveT

If you follow the instructions in the FSM, it will be more than close enough to start. Don't forget to connect the test connectors per the FSM when measuring the timing. When only replacing timing belts & idlers, I never had to adjust the timing.

+1 check the CTS. They can fail in ways that do not cause a code. I have a post recently with ohms / volts / temps .

Just make sure they can't move and hit anything. The ECU doesn't care about the alternator. It's a lot simpler than the modern ones. It might take some cranking to re fire, not like just a normal first start from overnight. If it gets flooded, hold the gas down to the floor and crank.

For typical car batteries - resting voltage 12.0 is fully discharged. 12.6 is fully charged. Resting means no current in or out for a day or so. It should take at least 10 hours at 5 amps to get part way charged.

With the flywheel at the middle of the 3 |||, one cam mark should be straight up, the other straight down. Just a note, to take better care of batteries - if you crank on one a lot, get it on a charger as soon as practical after. LA batteries do not like sitting discharged, the longer the worse. Give it a 1-2 second shot of carb cleaner, and hold the pedal a little open, see if it fires. If it does, you have spark at the right time.

There is a mechanism /circuit that shuts off the fuel pump if the engine stops running. The reason is to stop pumping fuel in theevent of an accident. Exactly how this is done varies with the model and year and type of fuel system. There is a seperate signal sent to this circuit while the key is in the cranking position, otherwise no fuel would be pumped, making starting difficult.

Note - my post about the trick for CVJ disassembly above is NOT about removing the axle from the car, it is about popping the outer CVJ off the axle, once it is completely removed from the car.

I found the trick to getting the outer CVJ off the axle on youtube. But can't find it again. Drill a hole in a piece of 2x6, [about a foot long] just big enough to slide over the axle. Disassemble the DOJ [inner], and remove from the axle. Remove the outer boot. Slide the block down to the CVJ. Clamp the axle in a vise, with the CVJ pointing down, over something to catch it. One or 2 moderate hammer blows on the block, with a 1-2 pound hammer should pop the CVJ off.

The axles come off the differential stubs. There is a roll pin you have to drive out. You need a proper diameter punch. Too small, it can get stuck inside the hollow roll pin, and you have a nightmare problem. The punch needs to be only slightly smaller than the hole the pin is in. You have to at least partially dissasemble the knuckle. Lower ball joint, or seperate the strut from the knuckle. I usually remove both, since it is easier to etc the axle out. But mine are all put together with anti seize compound, so the stuff just unbolts. Might as well replace the seals for the wheel bearings while it's all apart. And clean and grease them too.

This is my collection of measurements of the CTS. temp sensor ohms 14F 7000 - 11500 68F 2000-3000 122F 700-1000 Above are from the FSM. Below are actual measurements. Done at 2 different times, compiled here. The 1990 unit was in a good running engine. The new dealer unit was bought locally, and I made the measurements before installing it to get the extra reference points. measured ohms temp 1990 used new dealer unit 77F - 2390 122F 1154 1098 185F - 400 190F 454 - More measurements from some runs in 2020 - Temps measured with a Fluke62 max+ IR thermometer. Voltages while running, connected to the ECU with a Fluke 77 Multimeter. Ohms after / before, while off, connected to ECU, same meter. temp ohms volts 79F 1108 2.73V - 1130 2.79V 77F 1139 2.81V 193F 259 .680V - 262 .714V - 268 .735V 192F 242 .652V

I bought one from a Subaru dealer a number of years ago. I figured $3.00 per year the old one lasted wasn't too bad a deal. Need a new one every 30 years. They can fail without triggering the ECU to set a code. If it is telling the ECU the engine is hot, it won't pump the extra fuel needed to start and run a cold engine.

Which engine is this about?

A lot of the inferior quality things - regardless of aftermarket or OEM - is driven by those that shop only by price. Too many think the cheapest is the best deal.

I run Amsoil 100% synthetic. The inside looks a lot more like the OP pics. No black crud on the covers. Burning gasoline.

I have not had that kind of failure rate either.

The little piece that holds the cam seal is round where it goes into the carrier. You can twist it while removing / installing. Just have to line up the holes to get the bolts in. I put a little oil on the oring and the seal lips. Only press the seal in until it's flush on the outside - they will go in too deep. The bolts I have removed from these have always been clean with normal torque to remove, since they are oiled by the leaks.

I have one OemEM one that the balls had gotten damaged on. Put in new balls, and it's been fine. Another, had worn (I could see wear in the cup) from being on the left side of cars, I put it on the right, and it's been fine. Both got dissasembled, cleaned, regreased, new boots before I installed them. They have been good so far.

I'll have to look through mine later and see. And check the FSM. There were 3 versions for a while. As I remember at the moment, one had different spline count, the other 2 were the same, except one was slightly heavier, and used on 4WD.

Look at the ends at the transmission - Do they have ribs? Look at the ends at the knuckles - are they painted dark green? If yes to both, they are most likely OEM.

I had one shipped from CA to CT. No problems at all. It was in 2014, I don't recall the company name unfortunately.

What installation procedure did you follow for the timing belts?

I have some OEM ones that have the ribs like the one on the left. I re did a few with generic silicon boots from Amazon, so far so good.

The axles slide off the stubs on the differential, the oil stays sealed in the differential housing. Which is part of the transmission for the FWD. You need boots and CVJ grease. Might be worth getting the axle hub seals and replacing them also.

All of the OEM ones I have are painted a deep dark green on the outer surface of the cups, especially the outer end.

Yes, it takes a pretty good leak to get visible smoke from the intake gasket leak. The gaskets I use are the Subaru made ones, they are not cardboard. I've had those cardboard aftwrmarket ones fail at least twice in me. And they were Fel Pro brand.