DaveT

The sensors are easier to see from underneath. May have to take the skid plate off. I've left mine off for years now, as I don't do crazy off road stuff. If your instrument cluster has a gauge, it should just work.

The oil pressure sending unit is bigger than a typical oil light pressure switch. There are ports for both on the oil pump housing. There is 1 wire that comes out of the engine harness kind of behind the power steering pump. Goes past the dipstick, then strait down to the sensor.

You can rule out exhaust by getting rolling at a speed that makes the noise, then slip into neutral, Rev the engine a little. Never had a bad mount make that sort of noise.

That is not normal. My first GL did that. Someone had hacked into the wiring and wired it always on. The compressor was worn out and I had to replace it. The compressor should only be on for ac and defrost. It should cycle on and off when the thermal load is light.

Factory Service Manual. So much more detail than the generic ones. There may be sections uploaded. eBay.

I took a 1" square steel tube, and cut notches in one end that fit the piston depression. The other end, I slide a big bolt in, to make a crude pivot bearing. With the caliper flipped to the open position, apply pressure to the tube [about 12 " long] and turn with a wrench. Sometimes I've held the bolt end with one hand, or get in a position to lean on my hand with my chest. It's not about forcing it to compress, it's to keep the tool engaged. The piston turns in pretty slow, so bracing takes less effort.

Did you change the belt type also? These are normally a V belt. V belts for the alternator - not all your might. Moderate. On a stock alternator, after setting, try to turn the alternator by the pulley fan. If it slips on the belt, it's too loose. If it won't turn, or turns it a little, ok. [it won't deal with turning through compression, but if the engine is not on that stroke, I've had it move sometimes.] I don't have a trick for too tight, the idea is to work up from slip to just enough to not slip. Iirc, the swap you did doesn't have an external fan? Maybe a wrench on the pulley nut? Too tight will shorten the belt and bearing life.

There are a few different transmission end spline counts, depending on Auto, standard, Turbo, 4WD 2WD, etc. A FSM has a table of which is which, and how to identify OEM axles.

The front caliper pistons DO NOT compress. They must be "screwed" in. Hopefully, the tool took the damage. The rears, you have to push the pistons back in, make sure they didn't pop all the way out. Re install the dust caps. They should push in by hand or with only a little help.

HD6301V1P processor Data Sheet.pdf Here is the data sheet. It mentions compatibility with the HMCS6800 family.

It sounds like the old electro mechanical pumps I had on my 86 and 87 wagons. A spring pushes the fuel out. A contact makes, and energizes a solenoid. This pulls fuel into the pump body. Contact opens. The spring pushes fuel out. 2 check valves direct the flow in and out. Reducing the output flow increases the time before the contact makes again. Blocking the output stops the fuel from exiting, so the cycle speed drops to zero. Blocking the intake will make it speed up.

I started a new thread for the ECU investigation.

This is a thread to track whatever we discover regarding ECU internal wiring / code / experimenting. Dark color coating the external metal box. From an EA82 4x4 Wagon. ECU is labeled: 22611 AA100 MECF-001 5Y14 The UV erasable EPROM is a Hitachi HN482764G. 8K x 8 28pin Ceramic DIP The CPU is a Hitachi HD6301V1P 1MHz 8 bit 5V CPU I have the data sheet. Includes the Op codes. Object code compatible with 6801 family.

Maybe a cap from a spfi? Or investigate what is in one, and modify? Did you swap the evaporate system?

There are a couple of numbers in the FSM. I have a few more recorded at home.

The bearings are just normal ball bearings. I might have one with a readable number on it. Any decent industrial bearing supply house should have them.

I'll dig one out and get the numbers, pull the chip tonight. I just get in aND go. Having that big of a power drop seems unusual to me. I have 3AT s. I tend to delay up shifting a bit longer when cold. These engines are made for high rpms, not low rpm high tourque. The CTS can cause weird issues. MAF, check exhaust for no restrictions. Check for air leaks into intake.

When I was recently doing a bunch of testing, I saw that the O2 sensor signal started doing its cycling soon after the idle dropped to normal speed. I could use a prom burner to read the code from an ecu memory chip. But would anyone be able to decipher it?

I'm thinking someone added that capacitor, I've not seen one in that location on these cars.

I live in ct, lots of corrosives used here. I've lost many cars due to body rotting out. Only trying to help, need info, have to ask questions. I'm not there and can't hear the noise.

I don't specifically know - see if anyone does - but here's what I'd probably do. If the car cannot be down for a while, get a used driveshaft. If it's good, put it in. Rebuild whichever one is worse.

I have an 87 gl same color.

That's pretty weird. We're going to need Model and year, etc.. I can only guess, there are relays involved with some of this on the newer cars. Relays can stick and can fail in either state.

I'd get a generic carb fuel pump, drop a hose into a gas can. Yet away on the engine and carb. Yes, it tried to run on the carb cleaner. That stuff is great for checking for lack of fuel and helping clearing flooding. The old gas could be making the old pump stuck. It might be saved by removing and filling with cleaner, and or disassembly depending on how it's built.

What kind of noise? Clicking is usually cvj. I've been driving and maintaining gl and Loyale wagons since 1988 and not once had a bad wheel bearing.