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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. DaveT
    The single most important thing to monitor is coolant level. At least once a week, until / unless you notice coolant loss. Then it is wise to check every day until the leak is found and fixed.
  2. DaveT
    If no click when you turn the key to the cranking position, it's more likely a connection in the feed to the ignition switch, or the wire from there to the starter, which goes through a lockout on a standard trans, or the park / neutral switch on an automatic. There are a few connector in that line, and any one or more can develop high resistance intermittently.
  3. DaveT
    There are a lot of threads about headgaskets, how to check, etc. Don't let it overheat. Even if it runs over normal, while low on coolant, the headgaskets are compromised. The good news is that if it hasn't been badly overheated, replace them and it's a great engine.
  4. DaveT
    Oh yeah, don't even think of using an extractor... Unless you want a piece of hardened steel broken off in the rusted bolt. +1 what grossgary wrote.
  5. DaveT
    Or get a used knuckle that's not as bad... Not sure how difficult this might be though.
  6. DaveT
    Careful monitoring of the coolant level - in the radiator and the recovery tank will tell if you have headgasket trouble. Don't replace them until you start sing signs of failure, it is rare that it's catistrophic IF you monitor the coolant levels. Initially, with a new to me car, that means every first drive of the day. Watch for leaks, no matter how small. Check the level in the recovery tank, and sharply squeeze the upper radiator hose and listen for the jiggle pin and gurgling of air. Waiting for low coolant level to have the temperature gauge read over normal temperature (note: does not have to get to red, just over where it normaly reads) is how to cause the headgaskets to fail.
  7. DaveT
    When you turn the key, does it click but no cranking?
  8. DaveT
    Do that stuff first. Is it a click and no cranking problem?
  9. DaveT
    On Interference engines, I take no chances. Oem belt and all idlers and tensioner.
  10. DaveT
    Ok, sounds like same as GL. Buttons that use a combo of switches and vacuum for the modes, lever and cable for temperature of heat. The ac in ac mode is full on, but when you put the temp in between cold and hot, the heater re warms the air, making it less cold.
  11. DaveT
    If they did not replace all of the idlers and tensioner, along with the belt, with oem parts, that's asking for trouble. Those little isolated bearings are good for a bit over 100k miles, but they are not likely to make 200k. On an interference engine, I don't take chances.
  12. DaveT
    What does it use to adjust the heat temp? I've only had GLs and Loyales - I've seen a DL or 2, but not recently enough.
  13. DaveT
    Cat or even a small leak in the exhaust between the 2 O2 sensors.
  14. DaveT
    If you were to drain and fill the pan, then use that pump, it should significantly reduce the old oil left in. Since the old stuff would only be what's in the valve body, channels, clutches, etc. The new oil in the pan would be pushing all the old stuff out, which will drop into the pan still. But that's a lot less than what's in the converter. It will still take a good amount extra to fully change the converter, since there is a lot of mixing circulation going on in there.
  15. DaveT
    Blend door is a cable from the lever. I don't think it's different on turbo vs non turbo. There isn't anything that should make heat on one side and not the other, that's odd.
  16. DaveT
    Factory service manuals usually have great diagrams of the hydraulic system in the transmission, and descriptions of how things work.
  17. DaveT
    Not sure what the flow rate is or the bearings and what gets around the seals, but it is not trivial. The shaft seals that make the passages through the various shafts to get pressure to the clutch packs are similar to piston rings. I know of no reason they would not just let the valves that control the clutches and all just dump back to the pan via the shortest rout when they release pressure.
  18. DaveT
    If this a 3AT transmission.... I found that when I switched mine to Amsoil synthetic atf it worked a lot better in the cold.
  19. DaveT
    The transmissions I know best are the 3AT. The path is pump to regulator. Iirc, Regulator overflow goes to converter and then cooler. The regulated pressure goes to the control and lube systems. All of the lube system "return" is just what flows out from the bearings and all. The cooler is not under any pressure, other than what it takes to flow the oil back through the return line. The tourque converter doesn't need high pressure, just enough flow for cooling the heat it puts into the oil. It's kind of a big turbo pump loop. A big fan pushes fluid through another fan, getting the rotational energy through. The cooler helps get rid of the heat of moving all that energy.
  20. DaveT
    Your fancy pump idea would work as far as keeping the system volume constant. But would be the same as multiple drain aND fills, since the only some of the atf is sent to the cooler lines by the pump. As much goes to the clutches, bearings, gears, etc. Multiple return paths to the pan. This is why you need a big pan under the transmission when you do my drop the pan method. With the fancy pump, you still need 3 to 4 times the transmission oil capacity to get rid of most of the old stuff . Regarding the other post - the atf cooler line that returns fluid to the transmission simply drops into the pan, no suction there.
  21. DaveT
    Spring needs to be where the cylinder is.
  22. DaveT
    A couple of ideas. Multiple drain and fill with low cost atf, then use good stuff for the last 2. Drop the pan, find the pickup tube, adapt a hose to it, to a tank (jug) of new fluid. With a big pan under everything, cycle through the gears.
  23. DaveT
    A little more specifics would help. Lots of people on here have probably dealt with similar things.
  24. DaveT
    Bad connection between battery and everything. Fusible link box, main fuse panel, ignition switch. A few connectors in between. Volt meter or test light to locate where it's dropping. Full schematics from the fsm are helpful.
  25. DaveT
    Factory service manuals are best, complete schematics. Ignition just on, draws about 20 amps for everything trying run. Visual inspection doesn't always work. I don't recall the fuel pump amps, but I don't remember them being extraordinarily high. Not likely a wire this thick is broken inside the harness. It has to be a main feeder to drop everything. Flakey connections are flakey. I've seen a number of corroded / overheated connections in things cause similar behavior. A volt meter or test light at various points along the power distribution circuitry should help locate the point of failure.
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