DaveT

Not ecu or alternator. Sounds most like a weak connection somewhere. It will carry a small load like done light. But not big current like the starter. Batteryclamp, fusible link box on coolant overflow tank, main connection on back of fuse panel under the dash. I've seen batteries fail internally with similar symptoms.

Entire cooling system. Was it ever overheated while low on coolant? [causes failing head gaskets] Headgaskets replaced? When were the timing belts changed? Search this forum for turbo threads. Care history? Was it left stock, or modified?

Ea82 temp gauges are notoriously inaccurate. I have had a few that are normal below 1/4 as well as a few that read about 1/2 when at normal engine temperature, verified with a real thermometer.

+1 on likely headgasket beginning to fail. How to check coolant level- note coolant level in the reserve tank. Sharply squeeze the upper radiator hose. Listen for the jiggle pin and air gurgles. There should be little to no air. Running over normal temperature, (does not have to get to the red) while low on coolant accelerates headgasket failure. If closely monitored - as in check before every cold start - I've gotten away with delaying the headgasket repair a few days to a few months by just keeping the system refilled, but it is temporary and unpredictable trick to buy time to find the original leak, or reseal an engine to swap in.

I'm educated guessing here - but if the IAC valve is open, I'd think it would raise idle. Not a leak. Its more like gas pedal part way down. MAF senses more air flow, so ECU sends more fuel. RPM goes up. A vacuum leak would lean out the mixture - I've only seen vacuum leaks make an engine run crummy, not increase RPM. O2 sensor has no effect until the engine is up to normal operating temp.

12V won't fry it. If it didn't react - click and move - it was already dead, or very stuck.

What you describe is a dead CV joint. If by some chance, you guess the side wrong, swap the removed one onto the other side. I don't know your specific model, but everything I've seen regarding CVJ / axles is OEM only. There used to be a few aftermarket ones that were ok. Get a used OEM axle at a parts yard, get a set of boot kits, and reboot it. Probably good to change all the lubes at least every 100Kmiles, but it's got nothing to do with a failing CVJ. Check all of the suspension bushings, mounts, links, ball joints, etc.

Typical alternator failure is rear brush wears out at right around 150k miles. Put in a new brush, and replace the 2 bearings.

It's rare to need a new oil pump. More likely, just need the seals. It should have an EA82 engine. Any year, spfi or carb is the same pump. Not sure if turbo is different. +1 on timing belts and all idlers, and all of the coolant hoses. Adding A/C is a big project. Wouldn't do it without a doner car.

Sounds like maybe just whatever makes the friction for the blend door is worn... it's normal for most of the useful range to be in the top 1/3 to 1/2 of the lever travel. The top 1/4 makes a huge difference.

Here's the hitch mount I made for an older [EA82] wagon: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/hitch.html It would have worked for a winch also. They key is to spread the loading to lots of points.

If it had mice in it, they often chew up the padding that seals the selector and blend doors. So they wont completely shut off airflow. That is what happened to my 87. I had to remove the dash and disassemble the entire HVAC system to clean and repair the damage. I *hate* mice. I put hardware cloth over the openings in the body to HVAC ports before I put it back together.

If the engine is at normal temp- Heater core coolant flow partially blocked, or something with the blend door / mice bringing crap in and blocking air flow.

Definitely flow and leak check the radiator and heater core. Also consider replacing all of the several cooling system hoses, not just the 2 radiator hoses and the 2 heater hoses.

It's not the distance traveled, or the age of the car, it's the destroyed engine if the belt fails.

Sounds like your ignition switch is worn out?

Interference engine = do not mess around.

Check fuel pressure and delivery. Injector check: Once warmed up, shutdown. Disconnect the MAF. Remove the intake boot from the throttle body. Start engine. Look down throat to see fuel spray evenly on throttle plate. Open the throttle, see flow increase. Note, this will cause CEL and a code.

The CTS can also cause weird varying idle including high rpm when it shouldn't. And no code. Also verify that the wiring is solid.

There are several small hoses on these engines. Look up the cooling system diagram in a FSM. They should all be replaced at about the same time you replace a radiator hose due to age, to continue reliability and avoid overheating due to low coolant, which is death for head gaskets.

It would depend on if fog lights were an option on the original 95. If they were, it's likely the harness has the wires, and you just add the lights, switch, relay. Except with you different bumper, I'd guess different lights. The schematics in a fsm would help figure out how tricky this will be, or a few more Posts from others that have done it, or have the options.

My first Subaru was a 76 wagon. I'm in CT also.

The front tires always wear faster. They do more work. Turning, accelleration, braking. The more agressivly any or all of these are applied, the more wear.

I am n o t certain of the 01, but our 09 Forester had everything in place. I got the fog light kit from a dealer, and plugged in the parts.

Should not have to hit the axle. Not so good for the wheel bearings, or the end of the threads. Before you remove the tire, pull the cotter pin from the axle nut. Break it loose, maybe a turn. Then jack and remove the tire. I've always swung the caliper off to pull the hubs and rotors, but removing the 4 bolts should work also. Then remove the axle nut and the spring washer . The cone washer will be stuck. Hit it with a good size drift / flat end punch and it should pop loose. The hub should just slide off at that point. Spray your favorite penetrating oil into the gap in the cone washer and the axle nut even a day or 2 before starting couldn't hurt.