DaveT

I've made it to 200k miles with a few 3ATs. Keep the fluids clean, and full. Somewhere near 20k, check the pump input shaft, or any other time you have the engine / transmission separated.

Colchester is near the center of Connecticut.

I got one very similar a while back. Added the 4wd parts. You want to find the 4wd driveline from a 1990 to 94. Swap the transmission, and add the stuff from there back. You need the diff, and the cross member it mounts to, or you have to fab and weld the mounts onto the 2WD one. You have to fab the center driveshaft support bearing mounts also. Add a wire or 2 for the 4wd switch and dash light if you want to make it complete like a stock 4wd, which is what I did.

What I have always done is get a used oem axle at a junk yard, and re boot it. If it is already clicking, probably too late to save it. But I'd you catch a torn boot before it clicks, you can reboot it and be good to go.

I found a local used Subaru specific dealer. I get a higher milage car, but specify body condition must be great. Thy know which models years etc have the various engines to avoide, etc. They go through the driveline, replace headgaskets, timing belts anything telse that's on the edge. End result is a car good for 100k miles with only minor regular service needed. For a better price than I can get the same year and model with low miles. For most subarus, miles don't matter. I go for whatever year etc I can get for around $10k. Taxes and insurance savings and the difference between 10k and a new car price would pay for a lot of repair work.

Everything works fine.... Unless something goes wrong, and the existing wire gets shorted. I almost burned down my first car due to improper fuse placement.

4x8x16 solid concrete block from home depot. They ate very handy for hold big things off the ground. Not expensive. Only use them flat, not on edge or end.

The turbo is supposed to have a 2 row radiator. I have used turbo radiators in my non turbos since 1988 to get a little extra capacity. But the turbo radiators are hard to find now. This reminds me, I have some old radiators I have to get re cored, probably custom..

The biggest thing o know of the turbo, is keeping the cooling system at 100 percent. It's barely adiquate for the nonturbo engines.

I may have done this a long time ago. I had a pair of rims that hit the front calipers. I made a 1/8" thick spacer disc, and they worked. Never noticed a problem. Eventually, I ended up with more gl/ loyale rims, and got rid of the old ones.

The original wire and fusible link are too small. They should not be used. Add a new thicker wire, and proper size fuse.

The safe thing to do is run a new wire of adiquate gauge, with a fuse, to the + battery terminal.

Test the cts. Ohmmeter is all you need. If the sensor reads correctly, check the wiring and connectors. The numbers are in the fsm, and a thread or 2 on this forum.

I would find a new insurance agent / company also.

Half a gallon low on coolant..... Going by my experience, the headgaskets are blown. 1 drive like that is all it takes.

Get a used axle from a scrap yard. Reboot and re grease it. Then swap. Then reboot aND re grease the one you remove. Spare all ready for next time.

The tensile spring isn't meant to set the tension. Tourque on the camshaft pulley is what sets the tension, when the timing belt marks are at the indicator on the flywheel / flex plate. (Not to be confused with the timing marks for degrees). Somewhere around 15 ft lbs iirc.

Set aside the payments for collision on an older car, then you have $ to repair if it's your fault. The cost of having 2 old cars registered and insured is close to having one with collision added. My 2 25+ year old wagons, no collision. Our 09 Forester, has it.

Those 2 tubes are for the automatic transmission cooler. I'd just put rubber caps on them. I've seen them in hardware stores.

Welcome, Tally! You would get more info by posting this in the newer generation forum. Most of us here are working on older Subarus.

I'd look, but I am not home right now

If the starter cranks the engine at normal sppeed, the problem is not the battery.

Ah, ok. The harness wires often don't match the end device. The factory service manual may show them for both sides of the conector.

An 89 should have been SPFI. There may be diffences between a SPFI and a turbo distributor, aside from the wiring. But I'm not a turbo expert. These things are electronic, and may not survive incorrect connection.

I don't know if your car will work the same as mine - older loyales. I found that if I want to "downshift" the automatic earlier, I can move the lever down a gear. Then blip the throttle, the engine spins up, and it engauges. Don't try it the first time in extremes. See how it deals with a closer to normal shift first.