DaveT

You have discovered the fuel safety shutoff circuitry. If the engine stops running, the fuel pump is shut down. Think of a rollover or other accident the ruptures the fuel line.

Could be wheel bearing or cv joint.

Leave them unplugged for normal operation.

Fel Pro or oem for headgaskets. Oem only for intake gaskets. I've only used Fel Pro kits. The oem intake gaskets are a must.

Typical oil leak points: Cam cover seals Cam shaft seals O ring for the small piece the cam seal presses into. There is an o ring for the oil channel to the camshaft & lash adjusters between the head and the cam carrier. Oil pump seals and orings front main sometimes, not as common as the above.

I never went to the trouble to analyze the failure mode. Posably wire gauge too small. Connection to the lead wires not rugged enough.

I'd run it until the oil leaks get bad enough to annoy me, or they begin to fail. There are a lot of threads on here with advice on what to watch for to know when it's time. And how to deal with the bolts, which are most likely pretty sticky.

Oh, the dye I used is made visible with long wave UV light.

All of my GL / Loyale wagons run / ran the AC for defrost. From 86-93. Just unplug the connector to the compressor to disable it until you get to fixing it.

Happy Thanksgiving!

If it changed after the work, IT's almost got to be something overlooked, like timing off, hose miss connected.

Purge solenoid code / EGR code - 345 & 34 - The ECU cannot tell anything other than open or shorted circuit to the coil. I've had them fail, never noticed them effect driveability. Nearly all of the OEM ones fail. My solution is on my website below: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

I'm looking for a good tender also. My big problem is finding one with low standby power. It's ridiculous for the one I tried (so far) to draw 5 watts even when the battery is fully charged. In cars, there are small draws - clock, radio - that will bring down a battery faster than if it were just sitting there. I already know that if an ocasionall charge top off depends on my remembering to take action, it will be forgotten.

Most of mine came from local dealers in ct. Most have the factory A/C. Get the a/c dye, to find the leak, or look for refrigeration oil on all of the parts. Check orings at the connections in the system.

They are there to prevent icing. When air is pulled through a restriction, to a lower pressure, it expands, and cools. Under certain conditions, moisture in the air will condense and freeze. Possibly also to help reduce stress due to expansion- cool intake on a hot block would be a lot of stress compared to everything at room temperature.

That is typical early signs of headgasket tiny leak. You may back able to drive it for 6 days, or 6 months before it gets worse. Watch the coolant level and air in the upper hose like a hawk. Before every drive. It may even vary a bit before it goes bad quickly. Every over normal temperature event accelerates the failure.

+1 what robm wrote. Got to fix what is obviously wrong first. Pads to metal, drastically uneven wear, stuck slides, etc.

Air pickup for the hvac is inside the front fenders. I've driven many of these many miles with exhaust leaks, never had smell in the car, or I'll effects. Small leaks, and ocasionally large. Locations range from engine to y pipe to muffler. Larger leaks get fixed faster, since noise. I'm pretty sensitive to smells, so I wouldn't put up with it except to get home with windows and vents open, for obvious safety reasons.

What Crazyeights wrote. I had one with the reversed configuration. It was a 1990. Had to get belts by bringing the old one into the store. Saved the sleeves for future replacements.

Probably not.

Bad CVJ improper fit can do weird stuff. As far as the miles on the engine - It wouldn't be a surprise to find it needs a reseal job soon. Time and miles both are up there. Run it for a while, see how it's doing RE: leaks, oil, coolant, bad sounds. If it sounds ok, I'd reseal it if it's leaking oil or coolant excessively. A common thing to fail is the intake manifold gaskets. ONLY use OEM - they are far superior. Beware, the bolts are likely stuck, so get everything ready, run the car to get it up to normal temp, then immediately go after carefully loosening the 6 bolts and the EGR pipe. It is important to check the coolant level and air in the upper radiator hose regularly. If you wait to see the temp gauge go over normal, and it's due to low coolant, you are into head gaskets.

I don't know of any reason #1 has any effect. I and quite a few others run them without the covers, for a lot longer.

Oem or high grade Stant thermostat only. The temp gauge is not great for absolute readings, only relative. I've had a couple where normal is maybe 1/4 of the non red, and others where normal is 2/3 of the way to red. Same temperature via real thermometer.

The welding trick, yes you need some skill. The smaller the parts involved the harder it gets. Yes, I think it works best with steel bolt in aluminum. Way less risk of welding the bolt / nut to the base piece... Diamond burr, a good option to re center the hole in the broken bolt.

Even when you prime the oil, you still get lots of ticking off and on. It takes a while for the air to get out of the lifters.