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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. DaveT
    +1 empty bolt hole on old pump idea.
  2. DaveT
    Easy out will not likely work. They are left threaded tools that try to remove broken off bolts. From what I've seen they can work on new bolts snapped due to over tightening. On stuck bolts, the easy out breaks off, leaving you with a hardened piece of tool steel in the bolt. The best trick I found for removing a stuck & snapped off bolt is to weld a washer or nut to the end of the bolt. The heat likely has an effect, and the new "head" will then remove it. For future - and others - If you heat the block to normal operating temperature before trying to remove the stuck bolts, your luck is a LOT better. Either by driving, or a space heater and a heat gun with a meat thermometer to make sure you don't go over and damage seals. This takes a *lot* longer than running.
  3. DaveT
    did it snap while tightening, or because it was stuck when trying to remove it?
  4. DaveT
    Sometimes it does take a while to get them going.
  5. DaveT
    My general thoughts. .. Get a factory service manual. I have used only oem or Fel Pro gaskets / sets. Others more familiar with that particular engine would be better at knowing if other things should be checked. That bad of overheat may indicate it wise to check a lot more than just resealing.
  6. DaveT
    The good news regarding the life span of the CTS is that I have only 1 fail since 1988. Only a handful I've seen fail on the message board. With a new oem one, you should be good for 20 years.
  7. DaveT
    This should be in the older generation forum. The fuel pump won't run with the key in accessory position. It only runs in cranking position, or when the ecu is getting pulses from the engine running. In test mode, it cycles on and off. To test the pump, you can unplug it from the harness at the oump, and temporarily power it with wires.
  8. DaveT
    Yes check everything.
  9. DaveT
    When cranking, does the RRRrrr sound nice and even 4 count, or uneven?
  10. DaveT
    This is the correct forum. Check the condition of the wiring, connectors. Check with ohmmmeter, voltmeter, wiggle them. Reading should stay steady. Otherwise, sensors do go bad. The CTS can cause weird varying idle problems, without a code.
  11. DaveT
    Any chance someone swapped a transmission or differential and miss matched the final drive ratios?
  12. DaveT
    Check that all 4 tires are the same brand, size, etc.
  13. DaveT
    I just figure out what tap size will work in the plastic without cutting out too much, then get stainless screws that match the tap. Add plastic washers to keep the aluminum away from the stainless.
  14. DaveT
    that should work for turning the oil pump.
  15. DaveT
    I've always used grease. Be sure to closely read the timing belt procedure. Have not added sealant to the fancy cover gaskets. They are like fancy o rings, shouldn't need any, if they are not old / hard.
  16. DaveT
    There are adapters for power screwdriver / drills to squ are drive sockets. Get one of those, Chuck it in a drill. Snap a 12mm socket on it, turn clockwise. I'm in ct. Been running without the front timing covers for a good while now, no problems. I was initially resistant to the idea. Advantages - eas to check condition of belts when checking oil or anything else. Saves a bunch if time if one fails. I suspect that they run cooler, and may last longer, both bearings and belts. Good luck!
  17. DaveT
    There are adapters for power screwdriver / drills to squ are drive sockets. Get one of those, Chuck it in a drill. Snap a 12mm socket on it, turn clockwise. I'm in ct. Been running without the front timing covers for a good while now, no problems. I was initially resistant to the idea. Advantages - eas to check condition of belts when checking oil or anything else. Saves a bunch if time if one fails. I suspect that they run cooler, and may last longer, both bearings and belts. Good luck!
  18. DaveT
    I've done the oil prime by turning the oil pump with a drill, obviously before the timing belt is on that side. If you do it by cranking, pull the plugs to remove the load of compression. I wouldn't let it run long without the cooling system. Not sure if it's worth doing, as iirc, you only had the carrier off. Using even moderate care while reassembling, the biggest unknown is getting the timing set correctly, but this can be corrected with everything reassembled except the covers and the fan. If you unplug the MAF wire, and leave the boot off the throttle body, the engine should run in limp mode. Maybe obvious, but if you don't put the rocker cover on, oil will get everywhere. It's good to see the end results post for threads.
  19. DaveT
    Check the CTS. IT can get intermittent and not trigger a code. IAC valve can cause similar. Intermittent wire / contact to either. CTS has 2 wires, and is screwed into the manifold thermostat housing.
  20. DaveT
    In my recent emissions test fail nuts thread, there is a section about checking the injector. Iirc, disconnect the MAF. Remove the boot from the throttle body. While cranking, there should be a burst of fuel sprayed. Also, it should run in limp mode, and you can see the fuel spray down onto the throttle plate. If no fuel, it's time to start checking the injector and wireing. Ohmmeter, voltmeter .
  21. DaveT
    Hope you replaced the toothed idler or it's bearing also. That and the 2 tensioners have about the same life span.
  22. DaveT
    Loop of hose for the heater, yes. Fan running on the radiator is a good idea.
  23. DaveT
    Ohm meter from ground to each pin will find you gnd. To find the L R inputs, set the radio to aux or whatever it has. Use a music player / phone headset output for a signal. To be safe, put something like a 2000 ohm resistor and a 1uf capacitor in series with the signal from the player to the pin you are testing.
  24. DaveT
    Try starting and running while holding the throttle slightly open. If it dies only when you let it go to idle, it may be in the iac circuit. I had one do that.
  25. DaveT
    90% rubbing alcohol is usually safe for circuit boards. The other answers you have sound correct.
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