DaveT

If it is in the heater core, and ac evaporator, it could be in the ductwork also.

I'm with the 1/2 quart over won't harm anything.

The ones I've bought at NAPA have always been just like oem.

The torn boot will let moisture and dirt into the parking brake mechanism. Not good for long term functioning of the parking brake.

The last one I had with a carb. Was a 1986. I never had any problems with the carb. The frame got bent in an accident in the early 90s, it was replaced. I have only seen SPFI since 1987. Does the carb have a sight glass? Maybe the float / valve is stuck shut? It sounds like no fuel is getting through any of the paths.

Thank you. And every one who added ideas.

Almost has to be something with the carb. Did you try to keep it running by holding the gas pedal down part way?

To really fix it, you have to remove the dash. Then the heater box. Then disassemble to get to the flaps.

Intermittent problems come and go, so can sneak by a test.

If it is the screw that holds the rotor on the distributor, it is a lot smaller than that. It's a Phillips head, not a hex. It's something like 3mm diameter, but I'd have to check one.

Cruise HC 44ppm CO .03 RPM 2519 Idle HC 178ppm CO 0.0 RPM 744 Passed!

Running for a long time with a broken boot is bad. The damage isn't easy to see unless you completely disassemble the cvj. I once ran one for a number of months before I got to replacing it. It had intermittent clicking. Eventually began intermittent wobble in the steering. Yes, it can be one or the other, no correlation.

Well, I finally ran out of ideas for other things to check, and had time, so I went to get it retested this morning. It passed! Even better, they confirmed that this was the last time! Thank you to everyone who shared ideas, etc.

I'll try to remeber to look at one tonight.

If everything is right, they should make it to at least 50K miles.

You don't want the boot that full of grease. It should be nowhere near half full. I have not had a cv squeaking. The ones I've had fail click. If you drive one long enough, the clicking gets worse, and starts to make shuddering in the steering wheel. I've read about them ocasionally failing catastrophically also.

When I added 4WD to one of my wagons, I inadvertently used a mis-matched diff. When I switched 4WD on, I could feel the car load up. It would be draggy and slow quicker than when in 2WD mode. It would get going in snow faster in 4WD than 2WD, but get squirrely once moving along, since the front / back would be breaking traction.. I eventually figured out the the transmission I had chosen was the only on I had with a slightly higher ratio, from my 86. When I swapped it out, everything was good.

Watch the coolant level and air in the upper hose like a hawk, at least for a few weeks.

The plastic only holds a little cap over the center to hide the nut.

I have been buying and using NAPA ones for years, not had any big problems with them.

This is one of the ways things happen: small leak from cylinder to water jacket via headgasket fail. Takes a long while, at the right temperature for enough air to build up. THE bubble moves to the water pump at some point. WATER pumps suck at moving air. Coolant flow stops, no heat from heater. Overheat happens. CHANGE rpm, accelleration, turning, some coolant boiling, whatever, - sloshed enough water into the pump, and it starts moving water again. It is very typical for the gas test thing to pass falsely.

My 86 gl 4x4 wagon had them oem. The last time I bought new ones I still found adjustable ones. I'm due for new by now again. So I'll be looking. ..

Don't be in a rush to take it for a drive. WORK all the air out. Maybe go through a run cycle or 2. When cool, check and note the level in the recovery tank. Sharply squeeze the upper hose. Listen for the jiggle pin and gurgling of air. NOTE it. RUN till warm, watching for signs of overnormal temperature. When cool, re check the above. Do this (air and level check) every time before driving, until you see that things are stable. Don't open the cap unless the hose test indicates very large air pocket. Small amounts of air should work thier way out over several drive cycles.

Earlier ea82 wagons had adjustable rear spring height.

Earlier ea82 wagons had adjustable rear spring height.