DaveT

Those drain holes are way up on the front and rear sides of the heads. The funny looking ones near the exhaust ports are just weird casting artifacts as far as I know.

Sitting in an environment where there is no humidity or temperature control can cause rust to happen. What does the cylinder wall look like? Top of the piston?

Here is a video. Warmed up. Green test connectors connected. The timing was off a couple degrees. Adjusted before making the video. Vacuum, RPM and fuel pressure gauges. Also, a couple of views to try to capture smoothness / or lack of same.

You can test for the blocked cat by carefully loosening the nuts that hold the y pipe to the engine. Get about a 1/2" gap in there, and run it. It will be loud. If it runs normally, the exhaust is blocked. If it runs pretty much the same, the problem is something else. Or maybe a combo, but don't put a new cat on until you know the rest is right.

+1 carfreak85

I'd be worried about the one that stalled from overheating. That's far worse than I've ever taken one. Full rebuild and inspection for cracks, resurfacing the block side too. Just get one that hasn't been abused and reseal it.

I had 0420 with our 01 Forester. A small exhaust leak anywhere between the two o2 sensors can cause that code.

That all sounds good. My guess is that either the shock of cold would be bad for the heater, and or it getting coated it partially burned cleaner.

There is a bunch of information in those printouts, but not know what they are really measuring makes it hard to know what it can mean.

I am not sure at what rpm and load the secondary should begin to open and deliver fuel, but at low rpm and load, it should not be doing either.

The coolant temperature sensor can screw up drivability and not cause a code. Carb MAF cleaner yeah, things run good on those, could be a sign it's short on fuel in the mix. I just bought a can of MAF cleaner - the parts store guy said to make sure everything was powered down when using it, not to do it while running. I'd like confirmation that this is accurate.

Update so far. EGR seat looked good. Moved normally. I'll have to try that method of watching the injector. Tonight, I powered the fuel pump with cord I made from a spare wiring harness. Fired the injector via an engine harness and test leads. Didn't go crazy continuous, as I didn't want to fill up the intake with gas.... Talk about flooding. Seemed to spray and stop nice. With the boot off and MAF unhooked, it will just re start? I'm assuming I should do this with it warmed up.

For the rust, in places where you cannot get at all the faces / surfaces. Hammerite Waxoyl is what I use. Knock off loose rust, get the dust out, and soak everything with it. It will wick into places you can't see or get a brush or spray onto. The fancier kit comes with a spray tube you can use to apply it inside of rocker panels, etc. Thus stuff is the most effective way to stop rust that I have found.

Another way to locate sounds is to use a piece of tubing, like 3/8 or 1/2" . Sometime the tubing or the screwdriver method work better on different noises / causes. Get new bearing, and replace, or get an alternator. You probably have a few days, maybe more, but why wait until you are stranded?

Ah, that sounds familiar also. I made plates to match the flanges on the old asv pipes and bolted them on.

The only thing I don't remember is if the egr is different. Pretty easy to check, on the SPFI it's on the side away from the starter. A small stainless steel 90 degree tube with nuts like brake line fittings. Loosen those hot also. Best with a flare nut wrench.

Oh, yes. You need the SPFI disty. That slipped my mind because when I did it, I resealed the 86 engine, and put the cam carrier with the SPFI disty on as one piece. We are talking about using the 86 block in an existing SPFI body, right?

I never tested them. I've lapped some, some just looked at and or wire wheeled the crud off. If the contact surfaces look good, I've left them alone. Not had a problem I'm aware of. I'll note, that I had no reason to be suspicious that the valves had a problem on the engines I've had apart.

The lower part of the engine is the same. The SPFI manifold bolts right on. The EGR port might be different just take a look to be sure. The best way to get the bolts loose without snapping them is to run the engine to normal operating temperature, shut down and loosen them imediatly. Use only OEM intake gaskets. Antisieze on the bolts but be careful not to over tourque them.

Sounds like the battery is good. If the alternator not charging sufficiently is causing problems, it would show up as slowly lowering resting voltage. It also may show up as lower than 13.8v on the battery terminals while the engine is running. Check with everything electric off, around 1000rpm.

Unhooked the line and capped the brake booster port on the intake manifold. Discovered I need a fuel pressure gauge that reads higher than the one I have. Guess I haven't had a reason to test fuel pressure since my carbed 86.... Carb cleaner had no effect spraying around intake gaskets. Idle still jumping around 700 +/- 40rpm. Don't know how smooth to expect this to be. Things to do tomorrow - Fuel pressure, MAF cleaner.

You are correct, the purge valve code has no drivability effect .

Here is the back of a fuse block. EA82 Not sure what year. Most should be the same. If you can find a FSM - either in paper or online download, and can identify the wires you are missing / burned / broken I [and likely others] can more easily identify them. I have a 90 FSM. A few things are different - My 92 and 93 have those annoying motorized lap belts. My 90 and older had regular ones. So far, the 90 manual has been good for the 92 and 93.

Today: Ordered a leakdown tester. EGR valve functions with test vacuum, not leaking. Moves. inspected the seat, looks like any other I've seen. Fired the idle air control valve with 12V. Moves the same as another spare one. More tomorrow...

Oil leaks have no connection to head gasket failure in my experience. Some engine models have a time and or milage clock as it were. Most, if not all, will not tolerate running above normal temperature whole low on coolant. This is death for headgaskets. Milder, longer time to fail, more severely, shorter time to fail. But in my experience, fail will come after that condition. There is an oil gally that passes through the heads, and it can get to leaking. That's always been a slow to develop thing, from what ive seen, and when it gets to be enough to be annoying, reseal the engine.