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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. Sounds like a bad high resistance connection. Battery terminals. Internal battery failure.
  2. That rocker switch on every one I've had turns on the parking lights only, when the key is off. Many people first learn of it when it drains their battery the first time. It exists because normally, all of the lights are switched off when the key is switched off, which saves you from finding a dead battery after driving somewhere on a rainy day and forgetting to switch off the lights when you park. Things / threads to read - Any of the coolant system / overheat / head gasket threads. Timing belt threads. Stay on top of these 2 things, and you can have a reliable inexpensive car. Typical OEM alternator life is 150K miles. At about that mileage, one of the brushes wears down enough to loose contact with it's slip ring, and it no longer charges at full output. you eventually find out when the car won't start due to low battery charge.
  3. You need to check the voltage on the battery when the car is off, then when running. Those numbers will help figure out the starting problem. Someone may post a link to an online / download able factory service manual. They show all of the wire colors, routing, connector pins.
  4. From 86 to 93 I have not seen any other than hydraulic.
  5. I'm kind of guessing that mechanically it would work. The electric / lighting control stuff I'd want to check
  6. Be ready to replace the fuel pump, it may do this again. The sitting may be why, so it might keep working.
  7. Between age and miles there are a few other potential oil leaks. O ring for the oil channel to the lifters between the head and cam carrier. Same passage also goes through the headgaskets, and I have had Those get leaky. I never heard of anyone trying to re torque heads this late. Some of the bolts are likely a bit sticky, so it's a risky idea. Oil pump o rings are likely leak if original. Not a big deal to replace. Front main can be done on car, but isn't usually leaky. Cam shaft seals and the orings for the small pieces that they press into are pretty good at leaking when old. I'd the pcv hoses are hard as rocks, they'll leak.
  8. The power steering pump operating pressure is around 800psi. Iirc. The seals are likely more like hydraulic than shaft oil seals.
  9. How old and how many miles? Axle shaft boots are something that should be checked from time to time. If you wait until you hear or feel symptoms, it's too late to save them, and you have to pay for replacement.
  10. If I remember correctly, all of the connectors on the engine harness are different. You would have to try really hard to cross mate any of them. The wire colors on the parts vs harness do not always match.
  11. Take a look at the rust. If it's not too far gone, get some Hammerite Waxoyl. Get it inside and out of the rusty areas. It will stop the rust.
  12. I had one get flaky, and tapping the case with a screwdriver handle made it start running, so I got it home where I could swap in a working one. I never heard of one sucking air / loosing prime. As far as I know, if there is a decent amount of fuel in the tank, it will get to the pump. If you find it is running, but not moving fuel, I'd carefully pull the inlet hose, and see if fuel comes out.
  13. Fuel flow is pretry good rate with an open line. Yes, do the test connector thing. Best to add some line ro catch the fuel in a container, otherwise quite messy / dangerous.
  14. The pump should run for about 3 seconds when you try to crank. Normal fuel pressure is around 20psi. Best way to be sure about adequate pressure is to T in a mechanical gauge.
  15. I had one with the ac out by the battery. Napa had a belt that just fit. Had to put it on the big sheaves first, then cheat it onto the fan. Then tightenter by moving the compressor. The next longer belt was too loose. Watch out for the output terminal on the alternator. Forget looking it up in the application guide, that didn't work. I saved the cardboard ting with the number on it until I retired that car. All of my others have the alternator closest to the battery.
  16. Pressure redulator / relief is in the pump body. I haven't had to take apart a rack. I've rebuilt several hydraulic cylinders. Pull the boots see if you can see what happens when it's running. I can't think of any reason or way for the fluid to get into the boots except by getting around the rod seals, or end caps? ? Not sure of how they are constructed since I never took one apart.
  17. Can't see the video right now. But description reminds me of when the bearings failed on the pinion shaft on one of my ea82 cars. When engine braking, the slop would allow the pinion to screw forwars.and hit the differential carrier. Bad noise and felt in the car, 1 or 2 per wheel revolution. When under load or acceleration, the pinion would screw back, away frim the differential carrier, and everything seemed normal. Got it home by feathering the gas pedal so it could never engine brake. On the way, the seals failed, and the atf when into the diff. The transmission just started to slip due to low fluid as I pulled it into the garage.
  18. There is not a whole lot of metal between the cylinders. I doubt that the can be bored out enough to make a noticeable difference in power. There is enough for .02 or .03 oversize for rebuilding due to wear, iirc.
  19. Yeah that would do it. Good to know for sure though.
  20. Try locating a factory service manual. Either Ebay or online free download / view.
  21. I've seen people do the reverse, to put EFI on the EA81. So I'd guess at least the big things [intake ports] mate up.
  22. I once had a blocked cat on one of my older ea82s. Idled ok, but gutless when trying to drive. My test for suspect exhaust blockage is to unhook the pipes from the heads, but I have stainless nuts on the studs, and anti seize compound on them also. Use wire or the like to secure the pipes, just leave at least a 1/2" gap. It will be loud but if it runs normally, it's something in the exhaust. You likely will need new gaskets if you try this .
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