DaveT

The stuff I am referring to is Hammerite Waxoyl rustproofing for cars. I have used the clear formula for decades. The pressure can setup let's you get it applied in all those internal places you can't get at any other way. If you don't treat the inside the rust will just come back through from behind. The main website is a .co.UK url. The can artwork has Waxoyl in big upper case letters at the top, black except the x is red, on yellow background. Front view of a car about center of the art. Black below, like a road with small print details. This stuff really works. Soaks into the cracks and gaps and stuff.

Iirc, the choke valve and a high idle cam would be interrelated since you need both to keep a cold engine running. What is supposed to happen, is that as a thermosensitive spring warms up, the choke opens gradually, and the high idle cam backs off, eventually dropping to full open and normale idle. The spring was heated by 12v.

Don't sand. Knock off the loose stuff. Get Waxoyl and get it everywhere underneath and inside. Por15 is better on solid mildly rusted metal that you can encapsulate completely. Most of these locations you can't. Also, por15 is not best for painting onto non rusted metal, thus the do not sand.

Exhaust back pressure could be raised by a constriction in the pipe / plugged cat. Smaller ID pipe than stock. A bunch of splices won't do anything like that. On my EJ engines, I have only used Subaru belts and idlers / tensioners. On my EA82s I have only used Gates belts, and rebuild the idlers. I used a Subaru water pump on my 01 Forester. NAPA best quality on my EA82s. Have not had problems with the above. I have seen el-cheapo water pumps that have lousy impellers that couldn't possibly be as effective as the OEM or NAPA ones. I would not risk using one of those. Only OEM or Stant best thermostats. I'm not sure if you can turn the cranckshaft hard enough to hurt the valves, as I never tried it Maybe with a wrench handle extender, or bug breaker bar? Someone else may know on here. If you have to replace a valve, you have to remove the head/s from the block. If this engine has run over normal temp while low on coolant, it may need head gaskets sooner or later.

I would think a thing like CEL on and no codes would be mentioned in the FSM. It's possible that the ecu output to the CEL is failed in the on state. I'm guessing - I never had that sort of problem, and no model between 93 and 01.

I'm a man. I can change. If I have to... I guess.

No loctite.

It could be. .. sounds like a Red Green saying.

Oh, yeah, if it's still cold, and the choke isn't right it will stop like that.

It's been a long time since I dealt with a carb. Hopefully someone else will see this also. You'll want to fix the choke, especially when it starts getting colder. I'm not sure, but if there is a solenoid that prevents dieseling, and it's failed, it might cause shutdown at idle. I had this kind of failure on one of my SPFI cars. I got it home by feathering the gas pedal to keep it idling, but if I let go, it shut right off.

I agree, trying to get 5HP with a 12 volt system is pretty impractical. 330 amps at 12 v not allowing for efficiency losses.

That sounds quite odd. Everything I've ever seen about headgaskets says no sealant.

Maybe make sure they all go where they are suppsed to?

I haven't seen anything like that. Just the roughly 12 inch square sheets at auto parts stores. Those are what I have used glued to glass.

Did anyone answer? This is in the wrong forum, so most people with these newer cars will not have seen your question.

If there is a coolant leak, checking the upper radiator hose and recovery tank once per day before the first drive should give an answer. Note do not open the radiator cap while doing this checking, unless you are low on coolant in the upper hose and need to add some.

I didn't see an easy way to get to the detailed specifications for the EAVS. 5HP electric motors don't have to be 3phase. 240VAC 5HP motors exist, but are not common. The Eaton page I got to states that it uses a PM motor, which means permanent magnet - normally implies a DC motor. I have a continuous duty DC motor sitting a few feet away that is good for 4KW drawing a bit over 110Amps at 36V DC. They may have chosen higher voltage, because there are optimum size / efficiency / materials trade offs.

The repair kit I have is Coil Sert Part Number IK405-11 M11x1.25 metric- fine

oh, do you mean will the Helicoil tap work with the Timsert insert? I would be surprised if it would.

From the EAVS super charger link - the model for a 1.4 liter engine uses a 4KW motor to drive the supercharger. That's a little over 5 Horsepower, so a 1.8L will need a bigger one.

Yes, for any of these later ideas, start investigating how much power it takes to compress the CFM you need to supply at the boost pressure you want.

I can try to look up where I got the helicoil style ones I used. Yes the others are stronger. But the ones I used worked, and were not in the $100s for cost.

Get OEM gaskets only. Run the engine to normal operating temperature. Carefully loosen the 6 bolt ASAP while hot. Also the EGR pipe. Best to have a flare nut wrench for those. Rock them back and forth, gradually progressing. Do not force them. IF you are very careful, you can feel the difference between the bolt twisting springiness before it starts to yield. Sometimes tapping downward on the heads can help loosen them, but don't hit so hard they begin to deform. That's the hard part. Especially with that much crud / corrosion build up. You'll need to use wet / dry sandpaper to recondition the mating surfaces. Once those items are loose, you can let it cool off before removing the coolant lines, etc. Unbolt the AC compressor and swing it out of the way, the hoses are long enough.

How old is the battery? What size? Did it used to start the car?

Need to read the codes that are setting the check engine light. I've never read about or seen anything that ties the check engine light and temperature together, so probably coincidences? Not getting *all* of the air out of the cooling system can cause troubles with overheating. Over normal temp while low on coolant can damage the headgaskets, so watch that like a hawk. Need to know what size engine it has, so that one of the experts on those years / models can verify if the engine is interference or non interference. Turned what shaft? Maybe the exhaust seal that goes between those flanges isn't thick enough? Aftermarket exhausts can be iffy alignment wise, and all. Is it a known good reputation system, or el cheapo ebay special?