DaveT

If the fine copper fins are coming off the tubes, that radiator is shot. The fins not only remove the heat, they support the flat sides of the tubes. Without the fins, they flex under pressure, and eventually stress fracture. Loosing coolant is the quickest way to require a head gasket job or worse.

I've done timing belts loads of times. Never once had to re position the distributor. Line up the marks, put belts on, as described previously.

If you are in the fb subaru group, I think I posted pictures of how to do the rear alignment there.

You don't need the alternator or the water pump for 10 seconds. I stopped installing the covers years ago, after watching a number of members run without covers for years, with no problems. I've caught idler bearings before they fail and take out a belt since. Also, I suspect the belts run cooler with all the air blowing over them, and seem to last longer. I would replace both belts. The cam pulley has the timing mark up, aligned with the notch in the back cover when you are putting the belt on. Only on the side you are installing at the moment. The cam you are not working on doesn't matter. It's a kind of double check, that once you do the single revolution on the crank, the one that has the belt will be down. The 2 cam marks will always be 180 degrees opposite each other.

This is so much like when I found the slightly bent strut.

The mark on the flywheel is 3 vertical lines. You position it so the cast arrow edge lines up with the center mark. What ionstorm wrote re cam pulleys, and turn the crank one revolution between belts. I made the tool for sething the proper tension. Put 15ft lbs of tourque, snug the idler bolts. Do both belts, then do a 10 second run. Re set the tension. The belts will have walked into the position they want to run in, and usually are loose.

The door unlock is one of the things I really like about these older Subarus. Also, the headlights shut off when the engine is shut off. Saves a lot of batteries and locking keys in the car.

For the wipers - if you have the actual OEM pieces, try to find refills. They are the standard metric narrow kind. Just fit them by dimensions. I have the OEM blade holders on my 2 wagons. None of the aftermarket replacement assemblies worked as well. The OEM ones are stainless steel, and still good 30 years later.

Well, both of those shoot my thought.

the one that spins in the rain - is it diagonally opposite the rear that's on the bump stop?

No doubt the fuel is bad, if it's been in there over a year. As you start to run it, you'll be finding all the things that need attention. Keeping the cooling system in top condition is the most important thing. Every bit of it, from the multiple hoses to the radiator. Non XTs have 7 hoses, I don't know XTs, but they should be similar. The hardest part of trying to make this a daily driver is getting the NLA parts. You have to scrounge, buy parts cars, DIY most repairs.

Oh, wow! Never would have guessed that.

The LED for the codes is on the ECU. On "regular" [non XT] the ECU is bolted to the steering column. You have to remove the plastic cover to see it.

I don't know turbos.... But I have had a won't run at idle problem on an EA82. The wire that powers the IAC valve had a break in it. When it would go open, the car would not idle. I had to feather the gas to keep it going.

I once had an older model. Was in an accident. It was before I did all of my own repairs, so I had a shop fix it. It took about a year, but I eventually discovered why it always had a slight pull after the accident. On of the front struts had a slight bend in it.

Brake hanging up? Year and gl / DL / Loyale might be useful information.

Many parts for these old ones are NLA, so it's going to be a search. Junk yards, forums, ebay. Keep an eye out for parts cars too. It is likely there is a range of years that will be interchangeable, - I don't happen to know this year. Earlier ones were, and the ones with EA82 engines are.

Make sure the punch is not small enough to get stuck inside the roll pin! I've read a number of times someone did this, and made themselves a nightmare.

I'm thinking it wouldn't work at all with the lines swapped. It is typical of hydraulic systems to have the high pressure side use a smaller pipe / tube / hose diameter than the suction / return side.

I'd take the 3AT, but it's too far away. Also, I'm mot sure that an 83 is identical to the much "newer" ones I run. 1989 and up. I paid $50.00 for the last one I bought, and I picked it up, along with an EA82 engine for another $50. Shipping would be more than that.

Gunk in the bowl, figure it's in the jets, idle passages, accelerator pump, emulsion tubes, all of it.

For many parts, 1986-1993 parts are the same. The trick is that you have to stick with EA82 powered models for this. There was overlap for a bit, where GL could be what became the Loyales, and the old version of GL. Fewer parts interchange between those. I don't know the specific years, I only list the range I have actually owned and swapped parts with. But they do range a little earlier and I am pretty sure, to 1994.

Have to trace the wire back. See if you can find a schematic. The FSM ones are very detailed. Someone on here may have a scan or a link if you don't have a FSM. I am not sure what else is on the circuit that feeds the choke, but there are likely a few things on it, protected by a fuse. The schematic would help figure out which fuse to check also.

Are the cables OEM, or aftermarket? I've seen many comments that the aftermarket cables are not very good. The big nut looks wrong. There should be a half sphere face in contact with the fork - on the ones I have seen anyway. What is the true color of the area right at the break? It looks discolored. IT seems very odd to me that it broke so cleanly also.

The single pin white and green ones are for various ECU test modes, leave them disconnected. The bigger one is for a diagnostic tool to plug into.