DaveT

I could scan a page or 2. Can you give me an idea of what you are looking for?

spray carb cleaner down the throat for 1-2 seconds. hold pedal about 1/4. crank. If it tries to fire, [and once you are used to this trick, you can get it to run for a few seconds, if everything except fuel is ok] you have a fuel problem.

I'd have to look up the torque, but yeah, it's around 10. And they are not grade 8 bolts even.

Do NOT try to turn a cam with the pulley mounting bolt, it will snap. Get a short bar of aluminum or steel. 8" - 12" long. Drill 20 holes in it, that line up with 2 of the holes in the edge of the pulley. 1/4" bolts through the holes, poke into the holes on the pulley, and you can easily turn the cam. When the cam is in the belt install 0posuition, the valve springs will not be interfering with setting the position.

Key on, causes current to flow. The current interferes with the current from the ohm meter, throwing the reading off.

The way I'm reading the above - Ohm readings are meaningless if there is a power source in the circuit - battery, or running alternator. If the battery was disconnected, well, the key changing the ground resistance as described make no sense.

I just dug through my spare parts. Found a cam carrier with a distributor. 1 turn of the cam pulley makes one turn on the distributor. 1:1 gears. All you have to do is line up the timing marks.

Loyale was the end of the design / style. You have to look to earlier to find bolt on easy stuff. Keep it running more or less OEM. IF you want more power, an EJ2.2 FI is 40% more HP. For less $ and time than any other extreme mods to the EA that will get you less of a power increase. But now the transmission is a weak link...

If the fine copper fins are coming off the tubes, that radiator is shot. The fins not only remove the heat, they support the flat sides of the tubes. Without the fins, they flex under pressure, and eventually stress fracture. Loosing coolant is the quickest way to require a head gasket job or worse.

I've done timing belts loads of times. Never once had to re position the distributor. Line up the marks, put belts on, as described previously.

If you are in the fb subaru group, I think I posted pictures of how to do the rear alignment there.

You don't need the alternator or the water pump for 10 seconds. I stopped installing the covers years ago, after watching a number of members run without covers for years, with no problems. I've caught idler bearings before they fail and take out a belt since. Also, I suspect the belts run cooler with all the air blowing over them, and seem to last longer. I would replace both belts. The cam pulley has the timing mark up, aligned with the notch in the back cover when you are putting the belt on. Only on the side you are installing at the moment. The cam you are not working on doesn't matter. It's a kind of double check, that once you do the single revolution on the crank, the one that has the belt will be down. The 2 cam marks will always be 180 degrees opposite each other.

This is so much like when I found the slightly bent strut.

The mark on the flywheel is 3 vertical lines. You position it so the cast arrow edge lines up with the center mark. What ionstorm wrote re cam pulleys, and turn the crank one revolution between belts. I made the tool for sething the proper tension. Put 15ft lbs of tourque, snug the idler bolts. Do both belts, then do a 10 second run. Re set the tension. The belts will have walked into the position they want to run in, and usually are loose.

The door unlock is one of the things I really like about these older Subarus. Also, the headlights shut off when the engine is shut off. Saves a lot of batteries and locking keys in the car.

For the wipers - if you have the actual OEM pieces, try to find refills. They are the standard metric narrow kind. Just fit them by dimensions. I have the OEM blade holders on my 2 wagons. None of the aftermarket replacement assemblies worked as well. The OEM ones are stainless steel, and still good 30 years later.

Well, both of those shoot my thought.

the one that spins in the rain - is it diagonally opposite the rear that's on the bump stop?

No doubt the fuel is bad, if it's been in there over a year. As you start to run it, you'll be finding all the things that need attention. Keeping the cooling system in top condition is the most important thing. Every bit of it, from the multiple hoses to the radiator. Non XTs have 7 hoses, I don't know XTs, but they should be similar. The hardest part of trying to make this a daily driver is getting the NLA parts. You have to scrounge, buy parts cars, DIY most repairs.

Oh, wow! Never would have guessed that.

The LED for the codes is on the ECU. On "regular" [non XT] the ECU is bolted to the steering column. You have to remove the plastic cover to see it.

I don't know turbos.... But I have had a won't run at idle problem on an EA82. The wire that powers the IAC valve had a break in it. When it would go open, the car would not idle. I had to feather the gas to keep it going.

I once had an older model. Was in an accident. It was before I did all of my own repairs, so I had a shop fix it. It took about a year, but I eventually discovered why it always had a slight pull after the accident. On of the front struts had a slight bend in it.

Brake hanging up? Year and gl / DL / Loyale might be useful information.

Many parts for these old ones are NLA, so it's going to be a search. Junk yards, forums, ebay. Keep an eye out for parts cars too. It is likely there is a range of years that will be interchangeable, - I don't happen to know this year. Earlier ones were, and the ones with EA82 engines are.