DaveT

Yes,the clock has 2 power feeds. 12v always on, to keep time, and 1 switched for the display.

Sounds like it, or the wire Going to it. Before replaceing the ecu, I would unhook the signal wire from the relay, and try grounding that relay coil terminal to verify that the relay turns on the pump. Removing the 3 connector from the ecu should isolate it so it is safe to test the relay.

A carb has to be sized for the air flow range CFM that the engine can draw through it. Thus, the sizes of weber carbs mentioned by those who have done the swaps are the ones that will work best. These engines are mostly limited by the airflow paths in and out of the heads, and the small valves, from the many discussions I have read over the years, by those who have attempted to modify them.

They are incredibly rare here also, CT. And yes, I intend to keep driving them as long as possible, even if I have to mill my own parts out of blocks of aluminum. If I had all the time and the money, I'd replace all of the steel with 316 stainless. I have 2 in very good condition presently, and I intend to stay ahead of the rust. My previous ones, by the time the areas that show got bad, so was the internal "frame" / structural parts, so fixing the outside with plastic wouldn't really solve the problem.

From what I have learned with designing plastic housings, thin shapes like something that would normally be made from thin sheet metal are not printable. This was from industrial 3d print shops, and a small part was a few hundred dollars.

I can't answer that.... what I have done with nearly every radiator I've had is tap the hole with a 1/8 or 1/4" pipe tap (depending on which will fit) , and screw in a real petcock with a short hose on the other end. Now I can catch all of the ccolant, instead of it getting all over the frame, etc.

Running without the overflow tank is bad. That would end up requiring air in the system, and cause overtemps. The air level is checked by sharply squeezing the upper hose. Never open the radiator cap, unless that test shows signs of all air, and that you could add coolant directly to the radiator.

22oz? That is a lot. To determine if it's a leak or headgaskets, the checking I described above must be before every cold engine atart, and the air and coolant levels noted, to see a trend. Only then do I determine its the headgaskets, after searching for other sneaky leaks. Typically, the headgasket pinhole leak doesn't consume coolant, it adds air. Eventually pushing coolant out the overflow of the recovery tank.

Need more data points. But if it is say, stuck at 240 ohms, that would be telling the ecu the engine is very hot. It would then not supply enough fuel to get and keep a cold engine running. One of the things it does is control the fuel system like the choke did on carburetor systems.

Even if the exposed harness is unusable due to weather, it may be helpful for tracing, etc.

FSM should be a big help. I never had a brat, so I can't be very specific. Headlights only on with ignition on is normal, and I always liked the feature - prevents the oops, killed the battery on a foggy morning left the lights on. light system should have all 4 on for high beams. There should be a 8-10 AWG ground wire from the battery (-) to the chassis, no more than about 10" long. Checking all of the fuses wouldn't hurt.

Loyale#1 wrote: I did meter the cts. 241 ohms at operating temp. That isn't good. Way lower than anything I've seen. Table of temps vs ohms from FSM: 14F 7K to 11.5K ohms 68F 2K to 3K ohms 122F 700 to 1000 ohms From measurements on sensors I have, made a while back: 77F 2390 new sensor 185F 400 new sensor 190F 454 1990 sensor

It's better to make a new thread than tag onto one from years ago.

Sounds like the fuel pressure is good, I would not use the clamp to make it run, or realize that the pump is being overloaded. That might not be good for it. 22psi without the clamp is on normal range. Maybe something wrong with the injector? I suppose a bad vacuum leak could lean it out so much it wouldn't run, but the overpressure then makes up for it sort of. I would think you would be able to hear a vacuum leak that big. A thing to try would be capping off the vacuum taps like the brake booster, the port that goes to the solenoids, etc. I'm trying to think of how to narrow down your problem. I'd just swap in a spare injector. I have yet to have a problem with the mass air flow sensor or the throttle position sensor that caused this trouble. Maybe some else has? The coolant temperature sensor can really screw up running well when it fails in some ways, and it won't cause the CEL to come on. Might be worth putting an ohmmeter on that one, since it's simple to check.

Yes, it's not really air, once you stop opening the cap, assuming there are no other external leaks. Seeing those drops of coolant on the frame is something to go looking for the source of.

The overheat happens due to enough air building up to impede the cooling system from doing its job. Yes, heavier loading will cause it to show up quicker. In mild cases, I suppose it could be air pockets cause hot spots, damaging the headgaskets. Get enough air in there, and it can interfere with the waterpump's ability to move water, as in, waterpump are really bad at pumping air, and can't suck a big pocket through.

Yes, the ecu pulls that wire to gnd to activate the relay.

There should be a 10 or 8 AWG wire from battery - directly to the body. Use an existing hole in the sheet metal within the reach of about 10" of wire. Scrape the paint off, and apply some wheel bearing grease to keep the joint from corroding.

Oem and higher quality aftermarket thermostats have the jiggle pin. It makes a faint sound when you sharply squeeze the upper radiator hose when the system is full of coolant.

missing lock washers might explain them falling out...

The fuel pump relay coil and one contact terminal gets +12V via a Black / White wire, from a 15A fuse that is switched by the ignition switch. The other end of the coil is run via Blue / Black to the ECU. The contact terminal that goes to the pump is a blue / white wire. The Black/White wire should have +12 with the key in run position. The Blue Black should be close to GND, but won't stay there after about 3 seconds of non running engine. The Blue White should be opposite of the Blue Black. What matches / doesn't match with what you are seeing?

A good bi-metal hacksaw blade should cut those bolts. Like a Lennox or Starrett. I get them from MSC and/or McMaster Carr. Cheap hardware store ones might not. Other temp fix idea - if you have some lockwashers, [or flat washers, if they would fit] stack them under the head. The bolts are supposed to have 1 split lock washer on each.

The parking brake would definitely lock the caliper to the disk, as that's how it works. Long bolts could go through and hit the rotor.

The caliper won't move on the disc? That's a problem. Try removing the 1 smaller bolt that lets it pivot out for pad replacement without having to unmount the frame by removing the 2 bolts that are out now....

That's odd. The caliper should move around on the disc enough to get one to line up, then get the second. Maybe at ran in a weird position for a while with 1 bolt?