DaveT

Ah, hadn't thought of that posabilty and combined circumstances.

In the oem and good quality aftermarket thermostats, there is a small loose pin. When you squeeze the hose, it makes a small sound so you can tell there is fluid in the hose, etc. It's probably a good idea to replace the thermostat since the overheat. Oem or the best Stant brand.

Yes, you will loose acceleration. Speed limits around here are 65. 4000rpm for that speed, 3000rpm for 50 / 55 sounds about right. I've put 1000s of miles on them at 4000rpm.

Oh, if that smaller hose was bad, it would be good to replace all 7 coolant hoses.

oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil is only caused by VERY bad headgasket failure. How to check for the more common failure: Before starting the engine, check coolant level in the overflow. Note level. Sharply squeeze the upper radiator hose. Listen for gurgles and the giggle pin. Note the sound. If it sounds like a LOT of air, add coolant to the radiator. If not, don't open, as you let in air. Do a drive cycle. Before starting, check again, repeat. Over at least a few cycles, the air should reduce, and the level in the overflow will go down to match. If it continues to go down, and the air never goes away, you have to watch it closely, as there is a slow leak, or pinhole head gasket fail. IT may work for a long time that way, or it may progress to where the pinhole pumps so much air in that the overflow gains water, to the point of overflowing. Do not use the temp gauge as a way to troubleshoot the coolant system, it is too late by then.

How does this happen? I've been driving EA82 engines since 1988. Never saw it.

If it really looks like that is where the leak is - Note - the shaft seal on the pump can fail, that's what I have seen most often causing a leak near the pump. Also, the small 90 degree hose on top of the pump. Unhook the - battery wire. Unbolt the AC compressor, and swing it out of the way with the hoses attached. Remove the alternator. Now you can get at the pump and the hose and the tube with the O ring a lot better. If you fix the leak, you can closely monitor the coolant system to see if it is ok.

Yes, the water pump is what the fan is mounted on. Sounds like the intake tube to the pump. It seals with an O ring to the pump housing. Sometimes, the tube rusts, or the pump corrodes and it won't seal well. Have to get it apart, and inspect. That hot, with that much coolant loss, I will be very surprised if your head gaskets are not damaged.

EA82 really don't make a lot of power below 3000rpm. These engines are made to spin fast, not lug.

Did you drain the old fuel? Add new? I'd have to look up the number to be sure, but 20 to 25 psi comes to mind for fuel pressure. If it sat long enough, it could have accumulated some water also.

I did take my carbed 86 block and heads, and bolt on a spfi manifold, and it worked fine. I put the engine into a newer spfi body, so it wasn't a conversion, it was an engine block swap. The spfi manifold was the one in the car that needed the swap. So it would be like what your original post is.

That Romex clamp? That's on the return fuel line. That should not be clamped off. Remove that, t in a fuel pressure gauge on the supply side.

Is it a deeper clunky sound, or a thin ticking sound? TOD? I once ran one with 50 / 50 oil and water in the crankcase. A few times, at 65 on the highway. Before I discovered the water had been dissappearing into the crankcase. .. Ooops! I was running expensive 100% synthetic oil. Had no problems with the bearings after I replaced the headgaskets, which had been blown by the overheat while low on coolant problem that caused the mixing. It did burn oil like crazy however.

I have an 09 Forester. I am looking for add on lights - fog light beam pattern. I bought a pair of lights that looked like they would be good, and fit nicely - they are 1" by 6" so would peek out of the slots in the grill nicely. Problem is, they are a flood style beam, so can't be used for the needed effect. I need to augment the low beams a bit. I'd like to find something that would fit in a similar shape. But have been having a hard time finding finding such a thing. Yes, I have found more ordinary shaped fog lights, but I much prefer the 1x6 shape so I don't have clunky things sticking out in front. With the optics available now, there should be no reason it couldn't be done. H as anyone seen anything like this?

I have used the 2 row turbo radiators in my spfi wagons for years, as they are rated for slightly higher heat transfer than the 1 row oem non turbo radiators. The 2 row are very hard to find now. I have to look into getting one recored.

I haven't had a turbo one. With the cooling system being barely adequate on the non turbo ones, just be extra diligent about everything about the cooling system. Make sure all of the coolant hoses are replaced [7 on a non turbo] Make sure the radiator is in like new condition, not blocked, fine fins all attached to the tubes, water flows through it properly. Fans work, all that.

Those look like the normal cracks. Almost every one I've disassembled and rebuilt has them.

Looks like the newer ones are more of a pain to get the air out of than the ea82s.

Looking at the sketches in my 86 fsm, the intake and heads look different between spfi and mpfi. Not interchangeable. Passages and bolts won't line up. I've never had a mpfi so I could be missing something. The spfi manifold / head meet with 3 bolts. There is a small odd rectangular coolant passage inboard. One round air passage outboard. The mpfi kind of looks like it has 2 passages for the air. The sketches are not highly detailed.

Glad you got a clue to follow. My 86 had a carb, but that was a long time ago.

This is what I would do. .. piece of 3/4" plywood just a bit larger than the tv. An inch or so of blankets between the ply and the tv, face down. Kinda guessing, but I'd think about 4 straps. Also, note that I have a full 12' aluminium roof rack that I built that can carry 300 to 400 lbs. Yes the car handles funny. Yes go slower and think " I'm driving a big truck" so allow for much longer stopping distances. Avoid higher traffic times and places if possible.

I am not certain, but I think the mpfi heads and intake are different?

Interesting, I seem to have missed threads about the oem air intake being restricted. I might think about changing that. With the caviot that heavy load at low rpm isn't the greatest thing for these engines. They are made to spin fast. As you consider the ej swap, read the threads about it. You really want a doner car, not just the engine, as you need a lot of the wiring harness. Factory service manuals for both would be good also. And yes it is a big project as are any of the ways to get big (but not as big as ej swap) additional hp. . Small ones , it would seem the intake, and I've seen reports of small improvement from build exhaust 1 or 2 sizes bigger but not bigger than 2" ..

+1 to keeping a close watch on the coolant & air level in the upper hose.

The original air intake was pulling from the fender / front , not the heated air over the engine, I'm not sure you are getting "colder" air this way. From reading many threads on here, there are not a lot of inexpensive or simple ways to get a lot more power from this engine. There are expensive and complicated ways to get some more power, some with the additional cost of lower reliability. From what I understand of those discussions, most of what limits it is the way the intake and exhaust ports are routed, and the size of the valves. An EJ2.2 is something like 40% more horsepower, and still NA, and a very reliable engine.