DaveT

I've seen it overlooked. Seal seeps can lower the level to the point that you start getting gear whine. Ultimately fries the pinion bearings. It's something to check a couple times a year, unless it starts showing up low, then more frequently and or fix the leak. It probably would not explain the rough shifting.

It shouldn't be drilled any deeper than it is originally.

I've had it happen when in mobile, and I don't wait for it to update, and thinking it ignored the "post" button, I hit it a second time. Then a refeesh happens, and oops, double post.

Have you checked the front differential gear oil level?

I use the setup in my avatar on my 87 wagon. It's a full 12 foot rack. For a single sheet of 1/2" or thinner, I put a 2x4x8 down the center on top of the plywood. Strap it across with ratchet straps. This prevents the wind that gets under it at highway speed from snapping it lengthwise. To use the stock racks, the earlier reply sounds like it would work for low speed.

All of the ones I remeber have a "line" worn on them. I don't think I have seen any with less than 100k miles on them however. I just put them back in.

If that breaks on mine... first, I'd take apart the switch to see what happened, if I could fix it. If no, then pull the ignition and door locks off another car.

try aspwholesale.com for alternator parts.

I don't know how the access is on the ej22.... one broke like that on one of my ea82s. I welded a bolt to the piece of plug that was in the head, and unscrewed it.

Sounds like mild tod. It's a sticky valve lash adjuster. Sometimes it can be fixed by replacing the oil pump seal. Sometimes cleaning the lifters. Make sure you run 10w-40 oil.

1 o ring per side. Cam tower to head is anaerobic sealant, not oring. Except the pair I carved that groove out for one, and made oring for it. I never pulled the alignment pins. If you try, getting the block heated up to 190f will make it easier. Sometimes the lash adjusters get stuck in the sleeves.

What model / year / style car? It looks nothing like the ones I am familiar with.

I made a socket like that picture for when I had to do this on one of my older engines. I just used a decent quality socket,and ground it down to fit. I didn't have to weld or braze it to the extension.

If the body is really rust free, I would buy it, if I didn't already have 2 very good ones. I'm in ct, so rust is the main killer. Expect to reseal the engine around 100k to 150k miles. Make sure the radiator and all 7 coolant hoses are in like new condition . The alternator should wear out a brush at around 150k miles. I have driven a few 3ATs past 200k miles. I have had very little trouble with them. I do use synthetic atf in them , but can't prove that it does anything other than make them shift better when cold in the winter. Do check the gear lube level to avoid burning out the front differential pinion bearings. Some 3ATs the pump drive shaft splines strip. Replace the pump drive shaft, good to go.

You also need a vacuum pump to remove air and moisture from the system after you put it back together.

+1. Check for pinches. Also, remove the main alternator output to rule out failed rectifier.

Oh, yeah, they had studs! It's been a long time since I have been into one of those. Yes, that could be a problem. A sheet of thick glass, glue wet sand paper to it, slide the head on it to resurface. You have to get the marks from the old headgasket fire rings out. Search for post apocalyptic head resurfacing. For the gasket chunks, I have always used a shop knife blade carefully to scrape down to metal. The the resurfacing.

As soon as you connect the battery? Or soon after running it? I don't know justys. Do you have full schematics?

Wow, that sounds stuck. I have never done only 1 side. I figure whatever stressed one likely damaged the other. I have used old shop knife blades as wedges to get hEads or whatever to separate. Use 3 or 4 of them around the perimeter, tap them into the gasket to avoid hitting the metal.

Something I discovered a while back - when you are ready to disassemble an old engine, run it to normal operating temperature. Then immediately start working the bolts and fittings loose that are likely to be stuck. Alternatively, use a heat gun and a space heater and a cooking thermometer to monitor heating the block.

I have always had good luck with Fel Pro kits for my EA82 engines. [except use only OEM for the intake gaskets]

There are a couple of different tools for different types of bands. A good parts shop should have them, just bring a band.

Ah, I'll look at that first. I can test with a loose antenna first.

My first Subie, I used to lug more than was good. Wore the silvery coating off the conn rod bearings. These engines are not big old V-8s that make power at 2000 RPM. One of my EA82 engines, I got when it was 2yrs old, 15K miles. [bought the whole car at 2YRS old] I put Amsoil synthetic in it, and their filters, and bypass filter. Never changed the oil, only added as needed. Towed 1000Lbs on a trailer, sometimes with loads of stuff in the car also. Often it saw over 5000 RPM winding up to highway speed. When I disassembled it to reseal at about 150K miles, the bearings were still in factory spec limits. Still has the factory crosshatch in the bores. Wrist pins still in spec. It is now in one of my wagons, still running strong. A different one, got with fairly high miles, used. Switched it to the Amsoil setup. It was run low on coolant, worst case I ever had. Even got run on the highway with 50 / 50 mix of water and oil in the crank case. On the highway, at 4000rpm. A number of times before I realized what was going on. Blown head gaskets. The conn rod bearings were ok, but not new spec clearances. wrist pins, a little loose. Did the reseal. It ran great, but burned oil like mad. 1qrt per tank of gas bad. Amsoil was too expensive to use at that rate. I had spare engines. I decided to use up all of my old oil with it. Used waste oil, atf, mixed 50 / 50 with whatever cheap oil I could find in it. Even most of the mixed oil & water from the blown head gaskets, a little at a time. I ran it for years, until one of the heads cracked. It even passed emissions at least twice. Similar driving style and loads. Long story short, tough little high rpm engines.

Is it just mine, or are they all nearly worthless unless you park under the transmitting tower? The stock radios in my 25 year old loyales were better. I recently upgraded them with Nakamichi radios, so I guess I'm going shopping again.