DaveT

Yes. Not backing off and re checking after some driving is a good idea.

Looks like the normal crack.

Factory Service Manuals have all those details, like torque and more, if you ever come across a set, or find a downloadable one, it's worth it.

Bigger angles, [from the lift] probably makes more stress on the joints. I don't think the inner joint fail would cause any dangerous steering effect. Outer, probably feel more. I had an outer boot fail once, and didn't discover until the joint was already ruined, and clicking. Drove it for a while longer due to not having time, until it got bad enough to cause shimmy in the steering wheel. I have not had one fail completely. As far as I know, I have all OEM axles. I have always rebuilt them, some saved from previous cars, some bought used a scrapyards and rebuilt.

There is a steel spacer between the inner and outer bearing, so over torquing shouldn't cause bearing failure.

Small cracks between the valves is normal. Some of my engines have them, some don't. There was a tsb about it years ago.

Windshield is glued in place. Glue failed a little, and or rust got through.

I have a compressor that I removed from a small old window a/c. I use it to recover refrigerant. It can also pull a pretty hard vacuum. When using it as a vacuum pump, you have to cycle the run time, otherwise it will overheat because the motor is cooled by the refrigerant - which is not there when pulling a vacuum.

It would be a pretty big project, but it should be possible.

Replace all hardware with stainless steel.

Use a cut off disk to cut the bolts.

Ok, 84 & EA81, I never had. I ran a Mallory marine racing coil and breakerless conversion on my 76. That made a difference, most noticeable was easier starting. The EA82 system is already a very hot & high voltage spark, so I never messed with it.

Grinder cut them off. Buy stainless steel hardware at a hardware store to get a similar effect. Use jam nuts to keep them on. My exhaust mod on my Subaru page should have a picture that shows them. 7th picture down on this page: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/exhaust.html

If the cam seals and seal holder o rings have not been replaced, they are likely overdue.

What yeare and engine model etc are you running?

My first Subaru was an 76 red 4wd wagon.

Very old thread. A bridge rectifier "after the alternator " would do nothing to improve the stability of power . It would cause other problems, specifically, undercharging of the battery, due to the voltage drop in the diodes. There is also the problem of wiring one correctly, since the f rqme of the alternator is grounded, and a bridge rectifier is not going to function as a bridge rectifier with any 2 of its terminals tied together.

Yes, that area where gasket is missing is bad. I never had one that blown. Do the Subaru gaskets need to be re tourqued? Fel Pro permatourque don't. Intake gaskets get from Subaru.

Also, clean up the block face. Most of the bad head gaskets I have seen don't show obvious signs of failure location. It only takes a tiny gap where the fire ring stopped sealing to the head or block to let high pressure combustion gasses into the coolant. I know some people replace them in the car, but I have not done that since the first head gasket job I did, on my 1974 wagon.

I ran a bunchuge of old gas in my ea82 wagons for a while. The main thing was filter it, and water separator. If it is really bad and old, mix 5050 with new gas. Simple way to separate the water, let it sit in a gas can for a day or 2. Siphon the gas to another can, but do not put the hose to the bottom.

Ea82 overhead cams? Valve covers on mine are sealed with a fancy rubber custom formed o ring kind of seal. Fel Pro ones that come in head sets. The bolts have shoulders that set the clamping pressure. There are sealing washer to be used under thier heads. Replace when the main seal is replaced. There is always a small gap between the cam tower and the cover. Another posible source of the leaking is the cam seals, or the o ring that seals the camshaft oil seal carriers. Over torqueing the bolts only risks snapping them off, as the shoulder hits the cam tower to stop them at the correct height.

Getting the bolts out - run the car to normal operating temperature. Immediately go to work removing the bolts with care. Some penetrating oil before the run couldn't hurt also.

I use Amsoil synthetic wheel bearing grease for pretty much anything I need to grease. I have not seen it do anything bad. I don't recall if I greased a window track system or not. I have some that I should though.

The most common symptoms for blown head gaskets on EA82s is exhaust gas into the coolant. As it gets worse, pushing coolant out of the overflow on the recovery bottle. I did cook one really bad once, and got the coolant in the crankcase. But it ran great while doing that. I guess if it were blown between adjacent cylinders, it would run crummy, but not be unable to run - at least I have not seen one that bad.

I've always used something to pin the flywheel. Big breaker bar on the socket.