DaveT

Loosen the axle nut with the tire on the ground. Once it turns a turn, Jack up and pull the tire, etc. Factory service manual had pictures making it easier to figure out the angles etc to get the adjusters loosened. Check the oil frequently, until you see how it goes. Might be good to change sooner than normal a time or 2.

Yes, you do want to verify hat you are getting steady bubbles = sure sign of headgasket leak. In the early stages, the bubbles are small and not much coolant gets pushed out. As the leak gets worse, even a short drive ends up pushing enough coolant to overflow the overflow bottle.

Classic failing headgasket description.

Take apart. Clean out old grease, re lube. Check the brushes. Tracks and motor / gearbox.

Oh, also all 4 tires should be the same type, brand, wear.

Things to check: wheel bearing center driveshaft bearing Ujoints

And you have to seal the inside also, no matter which method, or it will rust through again, in a short time.

I don't know the turbo version. But with spfi, here's a few things to look at similar. Idle air control valve. Fuel pressure afters filters. If you spray a carb cleaner into the intake for 2 to 3 seconds, then crank, does it fire and run for a few seconds? A few times I have had one get flooded. They way to clear this is hold gas pedal to the floor and crank. It takes a longish time. So go in bursts. Eventually starts to sputter and run crummy then smooths out. But while flooded, they act dead like no fuel. Again, I don't know how the turbo versions respond to similar situations.

7 on non turbo means normal function / ok

One of my loyales had that setup, with the alternator and ac swapped.

I did the fuel line replacement once. Years ago, before I learned the hard way. It failed in a fairly short time, lost enough coolant to cause a mild overheat. Ended up having to replace headgaskets.

Napa used to sell coolant hose off of reels that works for that. Do not use any hose unless it is specifically rated for coolant system use .

It seems to me that some versions have a tendency to trap air in the waterpump. Water pumps are notoriously bad at pumping air. So when enough air accumulates to stop pumping, you get no heater output, and simultaneously overheat the engine. Air gets in from a leak. It must be hunted and found. Overheats (over normal ) when low on coolant damage the headgaskets, causing exhaust gasses to be pumped into the coolant. Becomes a circular problem, and gets worse.

If you swap out the entire driveline, no worries, it should be as good as whatever it came from, or better if the total weight is less.

I have alternators from 86 to 93. One from a turbo. No difference I've ever noticed, other than one or 2 had a 2 groove pulley. Maybe post a picture?

All 7 coolant hoses. All lubes in the diffs,trans, engine, per steering. Timing belts and idlers!

I went to the Fosgate website, and found a pdf drawing of the speakers. Printed it so that it came out full size by fiddling with the scaling . Cut out the side view to use as a guage.

Coolant temperature sensor could cause that. 2 wire sensor under thermostat .

Iirc, there is more to getting to read memory mode than just connecting those. If you are getting a code without them connected, fix that fist. It will clear, then, if anything else is wrong, it will be shown.

I am not sure about what may be different on a DL. For my 87 GL wagon, and my 93 Loyale, I recently installed Rockford Fosgate P152 5-1/4" speakers. I used the existing black plastic mounting rings from the oem speakers, but cut off a rib that was made to fit a groove on the oem speakers. Drilled new holes in the plastic to mount the speakers, as the holes are different spacing. But then the mounting rings just bolted back in place. I also added weatherstripping to seal the speaker to the back of the stock door panel.

The biggest risk of running with a compromised cooling system - if enough coolant is lost that the temp goes above normal, it's headgasket time.

I don't know if it would be safe with your engine, I only know ea82s this will work - I put a short piece of solid wire around the valve on the radiator pressure cap, so that it makes a zero pressure system. Any leak will be far slower with 0psi vs 13psi. The risk is the lower boiling point at zero psi. If you do this, it is wise to check coolant level and air before every drive.

The oil passage seals in the headgaskets are copper, built in. The aftermarket gasket sets usually give you 2 plain thin (metric) o rings for the cam tower seals.

They should just slip in. No serious pressure or hammering needed. Sand the rust out of the pocket, and of that is clean, sand any paint off the new joint. I would not use the one that was hammered on. Apply anti seize to the pocket and the ball joint and the pinch bolt. Be a little lighter on the tightness, since the lube will alter the torque vs tension.

Search threads about head gaskets and intake manifolds. EA82 engine. There is a LOT of information about what to do, what not to do. It is not normal for coolant to be in those holes. Don't let the coolant get low - check before every drive, until you find and fix the leak. Running low on coolant to the point that gets an above normal temperature reading damages the head gaskets. The most common head gasket failure is combustion chamber to coolant. Intake gaskets can fail, letting coolant into the intake. This can be slow enough to not notice, unless you are checking the coolant level frequently. If you wait until an overheat, you now need head gaskets also. Been there, done that.