DaveT

Wouldn't that big of a power increase require swapping the rest of the driveline to avoid breaking it? Also, the ej25s are known for headgasket problems.

Never seen anything like those pictures!

I noticed a few that were stuck in one head - the wire spring clip seemed to have worn / deformed the edge of the sleeve a little, rolling it into the groove on the lifter.

Yeah, too far for me.

Looks like burned out catalytic core. Normal working core is not black. I once had the core dislodge in one of mine. It moved around and mostly blocked the exhaust in the cat. The car ran pathetically. Weak. Didn't want to accelerate. Got it home. Did a few tests, and discovered the cause mentioned above. Could have just failed due to age. Or running rich, burning lots of oil, O2 sensor out of whack - but not so out as to trigger a trouble code.

The combustion pressure is very high. Way more than a compression test reading. I doubt the difference between 0 and 15psi in the water jacket is a significant difference. I think the main benefit is that more water is drawn back in during the cool down - the pressurized air would just cool and depressurize, and not draw any coolant back in. The zero pressure trick is really good at limping home if you have a coolant leak - like water pump seal fails, or hose or radiator gets a pinhole, etc. Even a cracked head - until the crack grew - but I got enough time to rebuild a spare engine.

There should be a wire that goes hot only when ac is on. A factory service manual with full schematics would probably help. When I got my 86 gl wagon ( same as loyale) The ac compressor was shot. I discovered that the ac compressor was always engaged. Found that someone had rigged a wire to force it always on. Don't know why. After un modified, the ac switched like it is supposed to.

I have done this with ea82 engines - take a small piece of 14 or 12 gauge wire, make a little u shape. Lift the check valve on the rdiator cap, and put it in there to hold it open. Bend it so it won't fall off. This makes zero pressure, and still allows for coolant to be drawn back in on cooldown. I have had no problems with boil over due to the lower pressure. Different engine may be different. Check coolant in top hose and overflow tank before every drive. Gotten away with this for months, but eventually the headgasket leak starts to get worse to where you can't use the car without risking overheat.

These are obd1 cars. That might be why the reader didn't work, guessing it's a new one. No cold start injector. Different map, yes.

The random idle stuff sounds like the Coolant Temperature Sensor. 2 wire sensor under the thermostat. The trouble code may or may not indicate that. That sensor can fail in a way that causes your symptoms without throwing a code.

The trouble codes are blinked on an LED in the ECU. Under the steering column. Remove the plastic panel to see the hole in the ecu where the led is. If the CEL light is on, it will be flashing the current code. You don't need to connect the test connectors.

Turbo vs non . Lots of different. ECU for sure. I can only guess, but likely sensors and wiring and instrument cluster.

Timing belts usually fail before 60,000 miles in my experience. The ball bearings in the idler and 2 tensioners are pretty near end of life around 50 to 60 k also. Even if they were still ok, they won't be by 100,000.

The big problem with waiting until a hose fails, is that you are gambling that you will immediately know you lost coolant before the engine begins to run above normal temperature. This window is very small. Over normal temp due to low coolant = new headgaskets. Sooner or later, usually closer to sooner.

Sounds like alternator dieing. It might be intermittent. My experience with more than a few is that original ea82 alternators get to around 150,000 miles and one of the brushes wears out. Other things also, but that one is like clockwork. Would not hurt to check the connections from the main out to the fusible link box and battery also.

I'd replace the bearing. It's going to fail soon. I don't know the specifics of that model / year, but usually those idlers use a standard ball bearing. Numbers usually printed on the side seals of the bearing. Get one with contact seals.

The factory specified thermostat opens at about 190 degrees. That's going to feel pretty toasty.

I've run 3ATs since 1988. Oldest was an 86, newest 93. Got over 200 miles on more than one of them. Sometimes the pump input shaft spline strips out. Replace it, and go again. Not really had any other big troubles. Vacuum modulator. One of the servo tubes fell out in another.

Heater output varying dramatically with speed from idle to highway isn't normal. I've had several ea82s. Each had its own normal temp position on the guage. When everything is right, it barely moves from that position.

I found out when installing my new stereos. Since neither car had rear speakers, I didn't bother to sort out what to do to separate the wiring. I'll have to look in my fsm to see if I can determine where the wiring combines.

Most new stereos use separate wi r es for each speaker. The old car wiring shares a common for the front and rear. You have to add wire or separate them. Don't tie the stereo output wires together. .risk of blowing up the output amps.

It could be old dried out grease in the mechs, or high resistance in wireing / connector/s. Could be both. If it's the grease, clean out the old, put in new. Check all the connectors for signs of heat./ looseness.

What is the link / name of the facebook version? I tried looking on there to find out what happened, but got too many maybe hits to sort out.

I never had a turbo. Several non turbo EA82s I have had, all have just a pulley.

I'm missing something.? .. I've never seen a battery clamp that is supposed to be "worked" with pliers... Every one I've seen has a nut, which is turned with a wrench, to loosen or tighten for removal or installation.