DaveT

Hard to tell how deep the damage is. ... my guess is it will burn more oil than normal. So use cheap oil. I ran an EA82 for years, that had been overheated, and I did a reseal, but didn't think about the possibility that the oil rings could be shot. It burned a quart with every tank of fuel. I used the waste oil from other cars, mixed with new what ever I found on sale 10w 40. For years.

I would need the FSM diagram to even suggest what you may need or not need. It's been too long since I had a carburetor fed 1986 EA82.

See if you can find a scan of the FSM diagram.

Those PCV ports need to be open. Blow by has to have somewhere to go. Has nothing to do with idle though. The choke should only be fully closed when dead cold and cranking. Once it fires, it should start to open. If it's too closed [or too open] , it won't run well. Once it is up to normal temp, the choke should be wide open.

The choke and fast idle cam work together. The fast idle cam over rides the idle screw. Check the the choke heater and other settings for the choke are correct.

Yeah, that could do it also. Definitely a thing to check. You just need to take the outer wing covers off, not the entire thing. After seeing a number of members running these without the covers, for years, with no trouble, I stopped putting the front ones on. This has saved me trouble - I heard an idler bearing beginning to fail, when I never would have with the covers on.

The good news is that it is a non-interference engine, the valves cannot hit the pistons, so no major damage. Take the cover off that side, and see what's happening. Sounds like the belt is too loose. I found that after I put the belts on, it is good to run the engine for 10 seconds, before completely re assembling everything. Then repeat the tensioner adjustment, as if you just installed them. This lets them walk and settle to where they are going to run. I almost always get more slack out of them.

You have to search the used parts places that use the nation wide system, or hope someone on here has an extra one. You also want to start collecting parts cars, since many parts are no longer available.

If this works, you can open your search up. The EA82 powered cars, from at least 86 GL through 93 Loyale all use the same hubs on the front. Both 2WD and 4WD.

There are seals between the transmission section and the differential section. If they fail, atf will end up in the diff. The diff case will gain oil. It is a pretty bug job to get to them, dissasemble most of the transmission to do it. The other sneaky leak for atf is the vacuum modulator.

The one on the side is for ATF. The one slightly off the other side, from center, is the gear lube for the differential. IIRC, 80W-90 or 85W-90.

The CTS can cause weird idle problems. Normally, makes it go high though. I had the wire to the IAC valve break once, intermittent - It ran fine, but no idle. If I kept a little gas pedal, it would stay running.

The leak I've usually had on those was the gear lube from the differential. No such thing as stop leak for that. If you were 1-2 hours away from the center of CT, I'd consider picking up the transmission if it is working. I got one a few years ago for $50. I run 3ATs in mine - the only way to get many of the parts is by collecting used ones. The same goes for the engine.

The last couple of drives in my 1987 wagon, the engine was idling at 3000RPM. So today, I started troubleshooting the CTS. CTS measures ok. The wire from the ECU to the CTS is good. Ohms to GND is not right. GND to CTS wire is good. Pluged in another tested good CTS, still get weird ohm reading from the ECU signal wire to GND, like the sensor is open. Moved the car between some of this, and now the ECU is giving me the code 21 for the CTS. So the wires check good, the sensors check good... WTF? This 1987 was wired with a round connector for the CTS. All of the other [newer] EA82 SPFI powered cars I've had used a smaller oval shaped connector. The original CTS must have failed a log time back, and when I replaced it, I made an adapter to convert the round to oval, so I didn't modify the harness or the sensor. And I made the adapter from some oval connector that was keyed with the tab lock on the other side, and modified it so it would mate with the normal CTS connector. Except I did not notice that the connector would now go together in either position, which doesn't matter electronically, but it turns out the pins were just resting on the sides of the sockets on the mating half. When I turned it around, they mate properly. Oops! But how long it has run with the flaky connection, is rather surprising. It's not like I was having trouble with it for years.

For a stretch, I had the white wagon wheel rims. THE only place that could balance them was a local Subaru dealer.

Possible - the contact at the top center of the cap broke / went missing. Or the infamous screw that holds the spinning contact came out. NOTE, one version uses a screw, the other the shaft is D shaped, so this can't happen.

Spray carb cleaner down the throttle body for 1-2 seconds. [Pull the boot] Hold pedal at about half. Crank. Might take 10 seconds or so. Does it fire or try to fire?

Yes, the small valves / solenoids have the same effect. Smaller power in, so it is smaller than the big ones. The circuits that drive these have to be designed to give that spike somewhere to go, so it is not an issue. Typically, a diode is wired across the coil in the direction that it does not conduct when power is applied to actuate it. When the power is switched off, the resulting induced current goes through the diode, so no high voltage is produced.

Inside the starter - are 2 parts - The solenoid, and the motor. [some also have a reduction gear] The solenoid is what is powered by the ignition key. It is a powerful electromagnet. I never measured one, but anything between 20-50 amps would not surprise me. It pulls a plunger that is connected by a lever and fork, which pushes the pinion gear out to engage the edge of the flywheel. At the same time, the solenoid also moves a big contact that closes the circuit to put battery + to the starting motor. This motor can draw hundreds of amps, depending on how stiff the motor is [from cold, etc.] The hard part of switching inductors is not on the make, it's on the break of the circuit. Inductors "fight" a change in the amount of current flowing through them. So on closing the circuit, the current has a lagging / "slow" rise. Energy is stored in the resulting magnetic field. On the break, the magnetic field collapses, which causes the winding to act like a generator - and because the circuit is open, the voltage shoots WAY up, which makes it harder for a switch to interrupt. A little bit of the contact is burned away each time this happens. This rapid field collapse effect is also why points ignition fires when the breaker points open. In electronic ignition, a FET turns off rapidly, causing the same effect.

There is a chance it was the same as a regular GL model from those years, or a Loyale. But this is only a guess. It's unlikely anyone sells aftermarket parts for this. The ones in the wagons do not fail often.

Nice fenders.

What Scoby4wd wrote, regarding fractional turning + what I wrote about heating. idosubaru also, the penetrant won't get through all the crud, if they are really bad. The reason the heat helps so much is that aluminum expands more than steel at the same temperature. Rust & corrosion expand, that's why they get stuck in the first place. Keeping within normal operating temperatures means seal, etc. are not damaged, along with metal characteristics.

If it's seeping into the intake, you won't see anything. Most of the slow leaks I've had externally were very sneaky also. The hot block evaporates it, leaving little trace. Many would only leak at pressure, when it's at operating temperature. As long as you check it frequently, you can get away with it, but I've had the leak rate suddenly increase, with little or no warning, and then it's a full headgasket up reseal, if it only overheats a little.

I'll have to see what I used... It's been in there a long time now. Or check what fusible link / fuse is in line with the ignition switch. That's a starting point for a minimum. The starter solenoid is thirsty for amps. Relay contacts are rated in different ways - resistive is common, and the easiest on a contact. Lamps and inductive loads are much harder on contacts. Typically contacts are derated from the resistive rating for a given contact when used for incandescent lights or inductive loads .

Could be head gasket, or intake gasket, or the seal for the throttle body to intake. Or a seep from a hose, water pump seal, rusted hard line on top of the engine. Normally with the head gasket, you can see bubbles endlessly coming out of the radiator, either by looking in the filler, or into the recovery tank.