DaveT

I've run 3ATs since 1988. Oldest was an 86, newest 93. Got over 200 miles on more than one of them. Sometimes the pump input shaft spline strips out. Replace it, and go again. Not really had any other big troubles. Vacuum modulator. One of the servo tubes fell out in another.

Heater output varying dramatically with speed from idle to highway isn't normal. I've had several ea82s. Each had its own normal temp position on the guage. When everything is right, it barely moves from that position.

I found out when installing my new stereos. Since neither car had rear speakers, I didn't bother to sort out what to do to separate the wiring. I'll have to look in my fsm to see if I can determine where the wiring combines.

Most new stereos use separate wi r es for each speaker. The old car wiring shares a common for the front and rear. You have to add wire or separate them. Don't tie the stereo output wires together. .risk of blowing up the output amps.

It could be old dried out grease in the mechs, or high resistance in wireing / connector/s. Could be both. If it's the grease, clean out the old, put in new. Check all the connectors for signs of heat./ looseness.

What is the link / name of the facebook version? I tried looking on there to find out what happened, but got too many maybe hits to sort out.

I never had a turbo. Several non turbo EA82s I have had, all have just a pulley.

I'm missing something.? .. I've never seen a battery clamp that is supposed to be "worked" with pliers... Every one I've seen has a nut, which is turned with a wrench, to loosen or tighten for removal or installation.

The high end Stant ones are good also. I've been running a 180 degree one in one of my EA82s for a while now. The heater doesn't quite crank out like the other one, with a 190, but no other problems.

That's nuts! Are they gold plated?

I just saw this - in use, live. Best thing ever to get the air out of the cooling system! http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461951812&sr=8-1&keywords=coolant+funnel

It should not be erratic. The readings should be solid. Maybe drift in the correct direction as things cool, but not erratic.

Unhook the battery and get it charged. Fix the problem. The battery will still work, but deep discharge, and length of time sitting discharged both shorten the life and capacity. A jump does not recharge the battery. It takes a very long time to recharge a fully discharged battery while driving also, due to the various loads and rpms. Get it on a plug in charger.

The 4wd select is electric, no vacuum involved. What I found in my broken switch was that a piece of the plastic housing of the switch broke off. Remove the screw under the button. The button comes out, be careful of the wires. I'll see about getting a picture of the repair, easier than trying to explain. I used a small screw to hold the broken piece onto the switch.

Agree about Fel Pro headgaskets. Not intake gaskets. I've had too many fp intake gaskets fail.

Time and experience will help. Ask questions first, for new to you projects. These cars are pretty good to work on, but there are tricks here and there to save grief.

CTS specifications from my 92 FSM: Temp Ohms 14 F 7K - 11.5K 68 F 2K - 3K 122F 700 - 1000 [K=1000] Note: The temperature gauge on the dash uses a separate 1 wire sensor.

The coolant temperature sensor screws in under the thermostat, on the side. It has 2 wires. It should change resistance by 1000s of ohms from cold to hot. I have had them fail intermittent, screw up the idle, and not cause a code. The fan is only controlled by the thermoswitch on the radiator.

I missed the different engine models. Mine are all EA82 from 86 to 93 is my range of hands on experience

I only have wagons, which I have swapped such parts between, and it worked. It's probably worth trying.

The black button allows you to move the shifter without the key. Orange button function sounds normal, except that it should click and stay down, click again and stay up. I had to fix that on one of mine. With the automatic 3AT transmission, 65mph is right about 4000rpm. Completely normal.

Ok, you have to figure the dissappearing water out. A few thinks it could be.... check the oil, make sure it isn't going into the crankcase. More common, intake manifold gaskets can fail and coolant is sucked onto the intake. There is also a gasket between the carb and the intake where the same can happen. Running the engine over normal temp while low on coolant is bad for headgaskets. If you decide to remove the intake manifold bolts, be careful. Safest way is to get the engine to normal operating temp, and then remove them carefully. When you re assemble, use anti size, and Subaru gaskets only.

Wow, that's a pain. I don't know why adjusting the carb would cause overheat, something must be wrong with the cooling system. Very important to make sure that the radiator AND the recovery tank are full of coolant before running anymore. I went to check my 86 FSM, to see what is there for the carburetor, and can't find the book with the engine sections. It's here somewhere.

The timing belts have teeth like gears. They go around the crank and the cam pulleys, and some idler / tensioners. It is highly unlikely that they are original. They are supposed to be changed at 60K miles, And fail right around then usually. It's been a long time since I rebuilt a carb. I guess I'd try to find another identical one to use as a reference, and a factory service manual, if you don't have one.

Don't use air to un- collapse a tank! (If that's what's wrong with it) If it ruptures, which is likely, it's very bad! You could try pressurizing with water, but there must be no air at all involved or trapped. If it ruptures from the water pressure, it just breaks and you have water everywhere. Not flying bits of torn metal and fuel vapor.