DaveT

Apply a thin coat of wheel bearing grease to all of the metal battery clamp and post. I take all the pieces apart, use an old toothbrush. Don't need to leave gobs of it, just get it coated. I still have the OEM clamps on my 1987.

Sounds good!

I've always seen a gasket there. Just to keep out moisture and dust. If they are no longer available, I'd cut one from blank sheet, or find an o ring like you did.

A small exhaust leak between the 2 o2 sensors can cause the 0420 code. The running bad, that needs to be fixed. That is not caused by a leak.

Window controls have nothing to do with the ecu.

I did make an 87 fwd wagon into 4wd. Before and after, 3AT transmissions. Had all the parts from doner cars that the body rotted away, but the hard parts were still good. Had to fab a bracket for the drives shaft bearing, and add a wire or 2 to the harness.

Lifter tick can also be a sticky lifter or few. Other noises other things. I don't see a clear description of the symptoms above.

Code 34 is EGR in my FSM. Check the solenoid to verify that it is open. If so, my permanent fix for this is here: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

Lowering a loyale is exceedingly rare. Like one other time in years have I seen a post about it. There are some threads about using different springs to stiffen and or raise ride height. I suppose you could make different cuts to drop it some.

Having the correct name might help. That is part of the airconditioning system. Looks like what was on my 1986 ea82. If you look through a factory service manual, in the a/c section, it should help identify it. If you don't have a fsm, there are some online / on the forum.

Gas and common oils / fuels are non conductive.

I'm curious why / how it interferes. I've seen it fog on just the right conditions, or is it the moving droplets? I like rainX. Mostly I just use the washer fluid kind, as the manually applied kind is too much work, and usually guarantees that it won't rain for a month.... it will be a long time before I have a car with eyesight anyway, but I am curious.

3 options: Clamp the rotor with pine blocks. Clamp the pulley with an old timing belt. Air Impact wrench, hold the pulley or rotor with gloves..

Yes, there is that, it is not a big volume in the motor area. I have one around here that I disassembled. The next time I come across it, I have to try powering it up. I suspect that it is likely not run at the extreme power levels that many brush motors you typically see sparking are run at. Since it is meant to run in lube [fuel] the brush material is likely different. I think I remember a metal screen on the inlet, which could possibly serve as a flame stop in the unlikely event of a spark / flash. The shear number of cars running fuel pumps this way - and the never heard of it happening numbers of explosions says something.

You want to swap the wiring harnesses from dash to engine. You want factory service manuals or online of same. You need full schematics. Definitely need to swap the ecu.

The concave convex is subtle. Hold a straight edge against it should make it easier to see.

In a GL and Loyale pump fuel flows right through brushes and everything. Sparks submerged in fuel don't do anything. You need fuel and air in the proper range of proportions to get anything "exciting" to happen.

I have a couple of 2 row all metal turbo radiators. I will be searching for a shop to recore them.

I'd start by finding the schematics for both versions online. See what's different.

There are 2 different lower outlets. The nearly straight one requires a different hose, shaped like an S. The angled outlet uses the same hose as the upper inlet.

Now that the cable is clean. Coat the bare metal with wheel bearing grease. Not gobs, just a film. I still have the original battery wires and clamps on my 25+ year old cars.

Search for "post apocalyptic head resurfacing" or something close to that. It's a big thread. I've done it, it works.

EA82 turbo = troubles. If you modded a Honda like the wagon, would it still be as reliable? Probably not.. Mods that increase power, speed, get you into places you can't with stock, etc. usually trade off reliability and economy... Not saying don't do them, or that they aren't fun, but they are a trade off..

For parts of the sheet metal you can get at both sides, a big piece of bar stock held against the side opposite you need to hammer on helps flattening kinks out.

I took a compressor out of a small window a/c, and put 1/4" flare fittings on the input and output lines. I can use it to pump refrigerant out of a system and store it in an empty refrigerant can. It will also pull a vacuum good enough to use for a/c work. I have to monitor it's temperature, limit run time when used as a vacuum pump, but it does the job.