DaveT

I will have to look a little later - let me know the model and all for both cars. DL /GL, wagon, sedan, 4wd, California.

+1 to desertsubaru

Wasn't there an anti run on solenoid on some of the carburetor versions?

OH! did you grab the fuel pump from the 88? You need the high pressure type for SPFI.

I have original printed factory service manuals for 1986 and 1990. They include complete schematics for everything, and the different models. Not sure why they don't seem to be online.... There may be a few differences under the dash, in the combination meter, but I have not ever traced into the differences that far. If you have the dash harness from the 88, you should be all set.... The CEL isn't a big deal, as far as getting it to run. But it can be helpful to let you know when a sensor is bad, etc. which can sometimes help with troubleshooting. It's all tied into the ECU anyways.

I am working on a repeatable fix and upgrade for the clocks. The main failure is caused by the cheap zener diode and resistor regulator to drop 12V down to 5 that the clock IC runs on. The power wasted in the resistor is too high, especially in summer when the dash is in direct sunlight, thus the connections fail. The other problem they have, is occasionally forgetting the time when starting the engine, which I have fixed by adding a couple of parts. The 2 I have modified and installed in my cars have been flawless for a good while now.

I have not seen that red seal like thing. But mine are all 3ATs. No sealant for headgaskets is what I have always seen and done. For the intake manifold, get the gaskets from a Subaru dealer. Also, the re enforced o rings for the oil passages to the cams.

The torque from the axles is supposed to be transmitted to the hubs by the splines on both parts. If one is spinning, they are stripped. One or both may be stripped if they were both loose. The nuts cannot hold that much power back. The cotter pins cannot hold that much power back. With good axles and hubs, the nuts should be torqued to something around 150 Ft Lbs, and the cotter pin inserted to prevent loosening from vibration, etc. This is not a common failure, if the parts are assembled and tightened correctly.

For cars around 10k $ I found a local guy that buys higher milage subarus, with decent bodies. He then goes through the driveline, does headgaskets and all the typical stuff that is known likely failures. Sells for less than I could go into a local dealer and get a low milage car, that will have the headgasket problems. And he has a better warranty. For my cars, EA82s, I buy from people, and expect to spend a grand getting everything up to par.

Yeah, check that hose, and the barbs it hooks to.

The oil leak thing has nothing to do with the timing. Oil In the intake is from blow by or possibly pcv valve malfunction. Valve cover breather hoses bring oil vapor up to the intake boot and it gets everywhere after a while. There always seems to be some as far as I can recall, been running these EA82 engines since 1988.

I haven't experienced or heard of an intake manifold cracking. Doesn't mean it can't happen, but I'd guess it's rare.

Check the new solenoid. Check the harness. There is a connector between the engine and the body, but from there, the wires go to the ECU directly iirc.

In a loyale, there is a system that shuts off the fuel pump if it does not see ignition pulses. I have not had to troubleshoot that . +1 check the timing marks are all correct. If you don't know that the belts and idlers milage is, it would be wise to replace them... the idler & tensioner bearings (1 idler 2 tensioners) are pretty nearly worn out by the end of life for the belts, which I don't trust beyond 50,000 miles.

Just saw this today. Too bad they are gone.

Yep, that's fully blown. I did a headgasket job with the engine in the car once, a long time ago, on one of my older Subarus. I've re-sealed at least a few since, removed from the car. I much prefer removing them to do that level of work. To give yourself the best chance at removing stuck bolts, get the engine to near normal operating temperature. Either by running or heat gun and space heater. Then loosen / remove them.

+1 what others wrote about the timing marks. 1 up 1 down is correct.

If you really had no oil pressure, the lifters would be making a hell of a clattering. Some EA82 engines used oil pressure senders, big sensor screwed int the pump. Some used just the switch & light, smaller sender. The car harness used the same single wire, to the same place on the instrument cluster connections. So if there is a meter, it should just work by connecting to the big sender. No Teflon tape allowed on the senders.... Maybe check the engine ground wire. I had an idle air control valve fail once, it caused the engine to die when you let go of the throttle, so it's a good idea to check it and the wiring to it.

I just remembered to go look at one now. They are an odd / different style than I thought for the rear diff, anyway. I saw a marking, but couldn't read it. Have to try when there's more light. But now I checked, mine are all newer, so I don't know if they are going to be the same.

If it's a spfi, the filter is under the hood..

If you can measure the id and od and thickness, you can try bearing supply houses, amazon, ebay. You are looking for double lip shaft seals.

Good idea to not drive it. That describes a regulator the is "stuck on full" . I just had one fail that way on one of my loyales. I ordered parts from aspwholesale.com

Belt slipping can't cause overcharge.

Engine oil pump? I think I may have bought one at napa years ago. Since then, I've just replaced the shaft seal with the one in the Fel Pro conversion kit. And of course, the other o rings used where the pump bolts to the block.

4 bolts engine to bell housing. I remove the 4 bolts engine mounts to engine block. Passenger side ones are easier to get at, drivers a bit of a pain, but a combination wrench can get them. Sometimes use a piece of 1X2 wood to get force on them.