DaveT

Leave the cross member on the car

The 8 inch lift is to get under the car. If you need or want to do stuff underneath. To lift the engine, no pulling axles, remove radiator. Put a jack under the trans. To help position it. Engine slides forward a few inches to get clear of the transmission. Block the Trans to the cross member or whatever, raise engine, roll car back. Lower onto a milk crate or blocks. Now easy to get at the back of the engine. Or just raise the engine, twist 180 degrees, work on it above the car.

I've done it by pulling engine only. A big tree, or rafters with a beam to spread the load. Come along or hoist. S ratchet strap to help with the tilt front to back. Once it is up, roll the car back. For under car work, I have a bunch of solid concrete blocks 4x8x16 and some 2x12s. Make 4 piles of the blocks for where the tires will be. 2x12s make ramps up, and bridge from front to back. Smaller brick sized blocks make the supports for the 2x12s so the tops are flush. Drive up, pull 2x12s from side, lots of room to work under. 8" high makes it possible to get the transmission out from under the car.

Don't know of any reason tilting the engine in any direction would cause permanent problems. Intake manifold gaskets at the heads, and the carb are possible places coolant can get into the intake and burned.

My experience with EA82 3AT 4x4 wagons is that most parts are the same. The 86 was carb, the others spfi, so some obvious differences there. There were also a couple of differences with the transmissions somewhere between 88 and 90. Gear ratios were different in the 86 also.

The SPFI has a little more power. Also, my 86 had taller gears than all of my newer wagons. Which compounds the lower hp from the engine. All of mine are / were EA82 w 3AT 4x4 wagons

Gasket surfaces should not be polished. Yes, check out the post apocalyptic head resurfacing thread.

I suspect that the rpm range of the different engines would make it a bit slow...

Here is the link: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

Running that low on oil.... Bad. Never did it, so can't say for sure, but low oil I would think would cause trouble with the rings and bearings. The coolant recovery tank should always have coolant in it, up to the full line when cold. I had an engine that burned about a quart of oil per tank of gas. It had suffered a bad overheat due to low coolant. It passed emissions, and didn't smoke. Ran it for quite a while, using old oil from other cars, mixed with cheap new. Running low on coolant - even a little low - is bad for head gaskets. No coolant in the overflow is not good. Watch your coolant level like a hawk. Both by checking the level in the overflow, and squeezing the top hose to check for water swishing & jiggle pin vs lots of air / no jiggle pin.

I had something not go back together quite right when swapping an engine once. My memory of the situation is fuzzy. Check underneath where the flywheel is partially exposed, and covered by a small piece of bolted on steel. Make sure it isn't rubbing on that.

I bought a loyale from a guy in California, had it shipped to Conecticut.

I will put a link to my Subaru mods page when I get home tonight. The Toyota model is not critical. They were using them at the same time frame as the GLs, 1988 ish. I have the very same solenoids in my current EA82s, that is how long the have lasted. I did modify the mounting brackets, and replace the connectors to mate with the Subaru harness.

A trick I found to help avoid this sort of problem - run the engine up to normal operating temperature. Then remove plugs or bolts etc. That have not been turned in a long time. Reassemble with anti seize. Be careful with torque since the anti seize is a good lubricant.

The plugs won't hurt anything. They are for reading codes from memory and clearing the memory. Just unhook them. I replace the solenoids with Toyota ones, since they don't break, or fail. +1 what others wrote regarding figuring out why it died.

I've been driving 3ATs since 1988. Did you have the engine and transmission separated before the noise while working on things?

Ah, thanks for the information regarding the different coolant situation. I didn't know they changed that.

If yours is rust free, I'd stick with it. Reseal the engine. coolant can get burned a few ways - intake manifold gaskets, throttle body gasket, headgaskets, cracked head. I haven't heard that cracked heads are common on legacies. I am more familiar with the older models. Miles don't matter much to me. The one in the ad, the engine could have a small problem, or could be totally shot. In these ages and mileages, I just assume (and it has been my experience ) that the engine is due for a reseal anyway, no getting around that. Still way cheaper than car payments. Buy the dead one as a parts source maybe, if it has the same engine and driveline as your current car.

Oil pump shaft seal. Possibly one of the o rings that seal it to the block? If the tick is caused by the pump, it's due to air getting in through the old seal. It takes a long time for the air to get out of the lifters. It takes a long time for the atf trick to clean stuff, too. I haven't run 20w 50 in an ea82. Too cold here half the year, and the timing belt doesn't need extra load. Typically thicker oil raises pressure on the gauge, I don't know what effect it may have on the lifters. If it's only one that is noisy, it may be stuck or failed, and just need replacing. Oil pressure drops to near zero at idle normally. There is no load on the engine, so not too big of a deal. The gauge on the dash is not super accurate. To be sure you have to get a mechanical gauge.

Fel Pro head set and conversion kit. The from dealer, only the intake manifold gaskets and the 2 reinforced o rings for the oil passages to rhe cams.

I added the 4wd parts to my 87 fwd. It was rust free, which is rare around here. I had all the 4wd parts off similar cars that I lost due to body rust. Mostly bolt on, a little bit of fabrication is needed.

Oil pump shaft seal. 10w 30 is too thin unless you are in very cold climate. +1 try the atf trick.

Watch the level like a hawk. Check every day, before first drive. The level may go down a small amount as the last air gets out, but it should level off in a few days. I don't know these newer models as well, but with my ea82 engines, this discription of events means new headgaskets sooner or later. Idiot light for temp Is useless. Overheat due to low coolant is bad. Best way to avoid is check often. Check the upper hose by squeezing, listen for water sloshing, and the giggle pin. And check the overflow level.

The battery is likely dead. With the charger on, you should be able to get lights and other things to run, maybe not all at the same time. If the battery was new when parked, maybe it would recover. If it was past a few years old when left, I'd expect it's toast.

Are there any steel wheels that would fit? Preferably similar size? It came with Subaru wheels as far as I know. They are not obviously low profile tires.