DaveT

Yes, you always have to check shipping charge before ordering. eBay, Amazon, anyplace, really. My experiences with the few low price high shipping charge orders, was typically they are the worst to deal with if something isn't right, so I don't order form those type of sellers, unless I think about it a lot, and accept the risk.

ok, sounds like I have another project... I have to find an extra matching wheel to make this practical .

The front plastic piece has a few scuffs on the sides below headlight area. What if anything do I need to do / deal with to repaint? I've done paint on steel body panels before.

I've never had a car with alloy wheels before. New tires, in about 2-3 months, they loose significant amount of air. My almost 30 year old steel wheels on my older wagons hold air a lot longer. I will have to check the stems, etc. with soapy water, but is there anything I should know about particular to alloy wheels? 2 of them leak down faster than the other 2. Also, related, the car has tire pressure warning light. It seems to be complaining now, even after I aired the tires back up.

Coolant temp sensor is something to check.

Check the bearings, axle nut, etc. For axles, I buy used oem, and repack and reboot.

These engines are not made for high torque low RPM running. I suspect any mods that increase power in that realm will cause problems with connecting rod bearings.

They get chewed up by running with dirt inside, start to seize.

POR15. just remove loose rust. The stuff is incredibly tough. On the inside, non visible areas, Waxoyl. On less you are certain that the rust is only on one side, you have to get at it from both sides.

To test fuel pressure, get a t fitting and a fuel pressure test gauge. Connect after any filter in the injector supply line.

I know ea82 spfi best. Earliest one of those I've seen is 87. What engine and fuel system on yours?

Idle air control valve. Coolant Temperature sensor. Check them and thier circuits. I doubt it is spark related.

That's odd. Near zero at idle is normal. The only thing I can think of that would make intermittent readings like you describe is electrical connection between the sensor and the meter on the dash. A leak that dropped pressure to zero while driving would empty the oil pan pretty quickly.

Hard to tell from here... I have had a bad axle make a pulsing pulling when it got bad enough. If the wheel has play, that's something else. The CVJ could strip out, and the wheel bearings would still be solid. But you would not be going anywhere with one side open / unloaded.

check oil, ATF, gear lube. Check the cooling system. very important to watch the condition of all of it. Yes, find out what is in the fuel tank. I've run some pretty stale gas in mine, but it was known to not have gunk, or water in it. Mixed with fresh gas.

Damn autocorrect. ... I have read a lot..

A regular EJ 2.2L is about 40% more horsepower than an EA82. More than that - and I'm guessing - the rest of the driveline won't handle well.. I have t ea f a lot, and considered doing the EJ s a p. If I went forward, I would get an entire donor car, it just the engine. You need the harness and ecu, etc.

If it's an automatic, it could be the vacuum modulator? On my loyales, those can leak, and make quite a smokescreen until the transmission gets low on fluid...

Around here, the weather switches too much to not have a valve.

Mine always upshift too soon. So I use the shifter. When the pedal is on the floor, there is a switch that triggers a downshift from D to 2, or holds 2 until you let it up enough to get off the switch. If I want to get from 45 or so to 65 quickly, I downshift to 2 and hit the gas. If the engine is turning much below 4k rpms, you don't get quick response.

Yes the first part sounds like the vacuum modulator smoke. 50 $ fix. It would likely have started leaking a lot of oil from the old gaskets by this age and miles, so doing the reseal isn't a total waste. I'm not entirely sure I follow the discription of the shifting / drivability issue... I've been driving 3AT wagons for many years. Typical on ramp I have it floored or nearly, shifter in 2. Until between 5 to 6 k rpms , then go to D. Normal 4k rpms at 65mph. The EA82 engine doesn't make much power until around 4k.

Helicoil or one of the other thread repair inserts.

Pictures would help.

Be sure to use same or thicker wire / connectors

The contacts on one or more of the circuits in the plug or socket lost the spring tension, and got slightly corroded which makes resistance. Current flowing makes heat, accelerating corrosion. Makes more heat, more corrosion. Also looses more tension from heat. Replace the bad pins and sockets.