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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. DaveT
    Fuel pump repair: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/fuelpump.html
  2. DaveT
    Here is another one I came up with: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html How to fix the 35 & 34 error codes for good, and still have the systems working.
  3. DaveT
    I got a pair of the sachs also. They came with the ride height adjustment. Back when there was a difference, that was what it was. 4wd could be adjusted 1 inch higher than 2wd.
  4. DaveT
    It won't fit through the small hole. The section with the fan switch and buttons comes off without removing the entire dash. If no one else replies before tonight, I can look at more specifically how to get the piece it mounts in off. It might be the trim piece around the top section and instruments.
  5. DaveT
    If you have a hose / port, etc. sucking air, cap it off somehow. Then no worry of dirt getting sucked into the engine. Anything is better than nothing.
  6. DaveT
    First thing to do. After doing nothing to draw power from the battery for several hours - measure the voltage. 12.0 or less = fully discharged, forget starting. 12.6 fully charged. If it is 12.6 or more, turn something on - parking lights, 4ways, headlights. The voltage should drop a few tenths while the item/s are on. This tests the battery and the connections, with the exception that once in a great while, a connection can be dirty enough to stop cranking level current, but still allow headlights to work. Checking the connections does not only mean tightening the nuts / screws / etc. Make sure they are clean, wires are in the crimps good, not corroded, no evidence of heating. Once clean, a small amount of wheel bearing grease prevents corrosion.
  7. DaveT
    Check for loose connection s in the charging system. Loyale alternators. Every one I have had runs about 150,000 miles and then one of the brushed has worn out, causing diminished output. No dashboard indication of the failure. Eventually the battery is discharged to the point it won't crank the engine.
  8. DaveT
    Be careful removing from the heater core end. I'm not 100% sure about older than 86, but the tubes on those are fairly easy to crush. Better to just cut off the hose with a sharp knife. Don't score the tube, though. I might not bother draining the system in those conditions. I've found using a little plumber's silicon grease on the fittings when you put on the new hoses makes them removable.
  9. DaveT
    I had an 86 GL wagon with manual regulators. All other newer ones I've owned had electric.
  10. DaveT
    Setting 1 on the blower. Uses the smallest resistor in the speed control. It often burns out. It can be fixed or replaced. 2 screws hold the resistor block in the duct in the blower housing. Near the motor.
  11. DaveT
    I had to relocate my Subaru pages, since my ISP dropped providing personal web hosting. http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/subarumenu.html Most of the Subaru stuff is working.
  12. DaveT
    That's what I was thinking. The pipe is smaller than my Loyales pipes were, and I made my own 2" system for those.
  13. DaveT
    Also look for a hole or leak in the exhaust before the second O2 sensor.
  14. DaveT
    Some of the car parts stores will read the trouble codes for you. There are also low cost code readers available now.
  15. DaveT
    Wife comes home, saying car is noisy. I listen to it. Look at the exhaust. One of the mufflers input pipes has broken off the flange. And I notice the 1 thin pipe comes from the catalytic, back to a y. Then to 2 *different* mufflers. Form over function stuff drives me nuts. Grr.
  16. DaveT
    Also, beware - the CTS can fail in ways that the ECU doesn't see as an error code event.
  17. DaveT
    Here is one I recently came up with. The way the front fender and mud flaps come together at the bottom, just ahead of the doors, is a "self destruct by rust system". I modified the mud flaps by cutting off the rear part that traps dirt and moisture and holds it in contact with the bottom of the fender. I also used a piece of the cut off to weld into the hole that was made in the flap to clear the corner of the fender. So now, water and crud flying off of the tire won't get sprayed in to that [no longer existing] pocket, and the joint where several layers of steel that make the rocker panel and fender meet. I cut the fender to clear the mud flap, since there is no longer a hole in the flap. The other layers don't get in the way of the mud flap. The cut in the fender also should allow crud the gets into the space between the frame and the fender to fall out. I'm still thinking of opening that up more, but for now it is better than factory. Make sure that the thin plastic liner is layered correctly so the water is lead outside the fender, not inside. I used POR15 and Waxoyle to protect the various parts during re assembly. Replace all of the steel fasteners with stainless.
  18. DaveT
    Just guessing. .. check the coolant temperature sensor.
  19. DaveT
    Sometimes a post will get pushed down the page by high traffic. I didn't see the original until just now. I would have to find a factory service manual to look up what to check for that code in that year.
  20. DaveT
    You can test for a blocked exhaust by loosening the 4 y pipe to head nuts. Get about 1/2" of clearance, see how it runs. It will be loud. But if it runs good, then you know the exhaust is plugged. Another way to check is to connect a vacuum cleaner to the tail pipe end. Do tye same with the 4 bolts, get space for air to get in. Canister or shop vac style. The vacuum cleaner motor should barely change it's tone when connected vs disconnected from the tail pipe.
  21. DaveT
    I've hauled a 15' tree on my full length roof rack....
  22. DaveT
    The only spark happens when key is shut off thing.... sounds like what would happen if the breaker points (or thier electronic equivalent ) were failed shorted. The high voltage pulse that makes the spark happens when current through the primary of the ignition coil is interrupted.
  23. DaveT
    Merry Christmas!
  24. DaveT
    I may have missed something. I thought it was dieing at idle.
  25. DaveT
    You may know this, but I'll add it for anyone new who may not realize it. The coolant temp sensor is separate from the sensor for the temperature gauge. The CTS is the one that can effect engine running, and it can fail without causing the ECU to show a code.
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