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Everything posted by DaveT
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If the radiator hoses are due for replacement, then so are the other handful of coolant bypass hoses and heater hoses.
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If the intake manifold gaskets get leaky, coolant gets sucked into the intake. Or leaks out on top of the engine. There is no pressure to push air into the coolant system. You do end up with some air, since during cool down, the coolant system draws negative pressure. This would pull coolant from the overflow tank normally. These typical headgasket failures when they are still in the realm of small / slow leaks do not show up with a compression test.
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Stack on a combi, use the axle nut. Back off, change the stack, repeat.
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I use a combination of extra cone washers and the spacers from between the bearings from a parts car.
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Ej22 swap, How did you lengthen your drive shaft?
DaveT replied to ragingbull's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I have not done this. Did you try a drive shaft repair shop? 2 ways I can think of. Find a shaft longer from another vehicle that fits snugly inside or outside of the original. A good fit should keep it aligned and straight. Weld. Get balanced at a drive shaft shop. Cut the short one. Get a piece of another, again. Just bigger or smaller than the original and use it to make the extension. Weld. Get balanced as above. -
wheel bearing stuck on axle
DaveT replied to Rocketdog's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The puller I have looks like it's 7Ton. I've run into things it won't move. Glad it worked out.- 9 replies
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- wheel bearing
- cv
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wheel bearing stuck on axle
DaveT replied to Rocketdog's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
A smaller power tool with a cutoff disk. The bearing is probably ruined now anyway. So destroying it to save the shaft makes sense. I think if I had one that stuck, I'd try to find a way to clamp and protect the axle end in a vise. Hammer on the outer race. Or find a big bearing splitter and puller to do it the more conventional way. I have a medium sized set, which works for normally tight ones.- 9 replies
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- wheel bearing
- cv
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1988 GL misfires/sputters under load. Please help!
DaveT replied to Spencerider's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Sounds like a fuel problem. What wasit? -
Brat bed trim plastic pieces(3D printing?)
DaveT replied to Speedwagon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I have access to CAD program, Solidworks. I have modeled some plastic parts, and had prototypes printed for work. They are better now than even a few years ago. Nicer finish costs more. Better stronger plastic costs more. Still have to hand sand and that sort of thing to get things to look like they were injection molded. -
For a long time, I carried a set of new ones in the car.
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I have an adapter that goes from a he drive to square socket drive. Check it in a drill. Put a 12mm socket on it. Use it to spin the oil pump until you feel it load up. Note: this is done before installing the long timing belt.
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Usually the longer one. Has more load on it. Oil pump.
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Never use impact on steel bolts in aluminum. I got fed up with the aftermarket exhaust stuff rotting out, and oem too spendy. So I fabricated all stainless systems for my 2 wagons. Anti seize on everything. No more exhaust hell. I have not done the mufflers yet, since the ones I have were still good.
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1992 Loyale fuel system problem
DaveT replied to JonnyGundersen's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
intermittent problems are a pain..... Coolant temperature sensor [2 wires, screws into thermostat housing on the intake manifold] - check it. I haven't seen one stall the car, but they can make starting tough. check ECU for codes. What I would do: Fuel pressure gauge Teed into the line at the throttle body. Voltmeter / or other indicator/s tapped into the various required circuits to watch for failure. -
Is there any way I can temporarily fix a CV joint boot?
DaveT replied to markjs's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'm in the USA, so my references are that way. The big nail or punch needs to be almost as big diameter as the OD of the roll pin. I've read a story or 2 where someone got a very small punch stuck. I have always re used the roll pins. They are only there to keep the end from slipping off the splines, and don't see any real load under normal circumstances. I've not had any rusty ones, since there have always been enough oil leaks to prevent that. -
Is there any way I can temporarily fix a CV joint boot?
DaveT replied to markjs's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Passenger side, drive down to remove, drive down to install. Driver's side I set the pin at 45 degrees with the bottom toward the rear, top toward the front. Drive up from underneath from behind the wheel. Same direction on remove or install. -
Is there any way I can temporarily fix a CV joint boot?
DaveT replied to markjs's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The roll pins are straight pins, not tapered. Oem shafts have a chamfer around one of the holes, makes it a bit easier to start the pin in. I have seen some shafts that do not have the chamfer. The real difference is that due to the number of splines, one hole lines up with a tooth, the other with a valley, so the pin can only be inserted if the shaft is on in the single correct position. I've used a steel gutter nail with the point cut flat to remove the pins, for decades. -
You're welcome!
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Why cant I get the tie rod off?!
DaveT replied to Rocketdog's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
What I have done: Penetrating oil. Turn the nut upside down, or use a spare one with the same thread, etc. Use a piece of aluminum bar 1/8" to 1/4" thick as a "cushion" and hit it with a hammer. Wear an insulated glove to hold the aluminum. Might take a few hits, work up the impact level.- 23 replies
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- wheel bearing
- gl
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(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
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If it's cold outside, the bottom hose may be pretty cool if the radiator is good. Idleing and spinning 2k rpm with no load is not the same as driving load wise. The real test is to see what happens on a short drive, then a longer one, if no overheat or excess coolant is pushed into the overflow tank.
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Sounds like bad pump.
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Don't know for sure about fuel mileage, but the O2 sensor can fail in ways that don't throw a code and burn out the catalytic converter. I suspect it could though. I've always gotten around 20-22mpg with my 3AT wagons. But I use the gas pedal.
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My '92 Loyale delays in starting
DaveT replied to TheEmpireStrikesBack's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The wiring that triggers the starter solenoid to pull in, and crank the motor has many connectors in it;s path, and the ignition switch. One or more has developed a small amount of resistance, which prevents the solenoid from pulling in all the way. The high resistance is intermittent, so it varies, eventually gets to the point where it won't engage at all. The add on starter relay fixed both of mine.