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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. DaveT
    If the radiator hoses are due for replacement, then so are the other handful of coolant bypass hoses and heater hoses.
  2. DaveT
    If the intake manifold gaskets get leaky, coolant gets sucked into the intake. Or leaks out on top of the engine. There is no pressure to push air into the coolant system. You do end up with some air, since during cool down, the coolant system draws negative pressure. This would pull coolant from the overflow tank normally. These typical headgasket failures when they are still in the realm of small / slow leaks do not show up with a compression test.
  3. DaveT
    Stack on a combi, use the axle nut. Back off, change the stack, repeat.
  4. DaveT
    I use a combination of extra cone washers and the spacers from between the bearings from a parts car.
  5. DaveT
    I have not done this. Did you try a drive shaft repair shop? 2 ways I can think of. Find a shaft longer from another vehicle that fits snugly inside or outside of the original. A good fit should keep it aligned and straight. Weld. Get balanced at a drive shaft shop. Cut the short one. Get a piece of another, again. Just bigger or smaller than the original and use it to make the extension. Weld. Get balanced as above.
  6. DaveT
    The puller I have looks like it's 7Ton. I've run into things it won't move. Glad it worked out.
  7. DaveT
    A smaller power tool with a cutoff disk. The bearing is probably ruined now anyway. So destroying it to save the shaft makes sense. I think if I had one that stuck, I'd try to find a way to clamp and protect the axle end in a vise. Hammer on the outer race. Or find a big bearing splitter and puller to do it the more conventional way. I have a medium sized set, which works for normally tight ones.
  8. DaveT
    Sounds like a fuel problem. What wasit?
  9. DaveT
    I have access to CAD program, Solidworks. I have modeled some plastic parts, and had prototypes printed for work. They are better now than even a few years ago. Nicer finish costs more. Better stronger plastic costs more. Still have to hand sand and that sort of thing to get things to look like they were injection molded.
  10. DaveT
    For a long time, I carried a set of new ones in the car.
  11. DaveT
    I have an adapter that goes from a he drive to square socket drive. Check it in a drill. Put a 12mm socket on it. Use it to spin the oil pump until you feel it load up. Note: this is done before installing the long timing belt.
  12. DaveT
    Usually the longer one. Has more load on it. Oil pump.
  13. DaveT
    Maybe a long shot, but I had random idle jumping in one of my older Subarus, it was caused by an intermittent coolant temperature sensor.
  14. DaveT
    Never use impact on steel bolts in aluminum. I got fed up with the aftermarket exhaust stuff rotting out, and oem too spendy. So I fabricated all stainless systems for my 2 wagons. Anti seize on everything. No more exhaust hell. I have not done the mufflers yet, since the ones I have were still good.
  15. DaveT
    intermittent problems are a pain..... Coolant temperature sensor [2 wires, screws into thermostat housing on the intake manifold] - check it. I haven't seen one stall the car, but they can make starting tough. check ECU for codes. What I would do: Fuel pressure gauge Teed into the line at the throttle body. Voltmeter / or other indicator/s tapped into the various required circuits to watch for failure.
  16. DaveT
    I'm in the USA, so my references are that way. The big nail or punch needs to be almost as big diameter as the OD of the roll pin. I've read a story or 2 where someone got a very small punch stuck. I have always re used the roll pins. They are only there to keep the end from slipping off the splines, and don't see any real load under normal circumstances. I've not had any rusty ones, since there have always been enough oil leaks to prevent that.
  17. DaveT
    I have spare axles and knuckles for our 2001 Forester. I'm trying to find out if they are the same as those on a 2009 Forester. The hubs I suspect are different, since the 09 has big Al wheels, and the 01 has steel wheels.
  18. DaveT
    Passenger side, drive down to remove, drive down to install. Driver's side I set the pin at 45 degrees with the bottom toward the rear, top toward the front. Drive up from underneath from behind the wheel. Same direction on remove or install.
  19. DaveT
    The roll pins are straight pins, not tapered. Oem shafts have a chamfer around one of the holes, makes it a bit easier to start the pin in. I have seen some shafts that do not have the chamfer. The real difference is that due to the number of splines, one hole lines up with a tooth, the other with a valley, so the pin can only be inserted if the shaft is on in the single correct position. I've used a steel gutter nail with the point cut flat to remove the pins, for decades.
  20. DaveT
    You're welcome!
  21. DaveT
    What I have done: Penetrating oil. Turn the nut upside down, or use a spare one with the same thread, etc. Use a piece of aluminum bar 1/8" to 1/4" thick as a "cushion" and hit it with a hammer. Wear an insulated glove to hold the aluminum. Might take a few hits, work up the impact level.
  22. DaveT
    If it's cold outside, the bottom hose may be pretty cool if the radiator is good. Idleing and spinning 2k rpm with no load is not the same as driving load wise. The real test is to see what happens on a short drive, then a longer one, if no overheat or excess coolant is pushed into the overflow tank.
  23. DaveT
    Sounds like bad pump.
  24. DaveT
    Don't know for sure about fuel mileage, but the O2 sensor can fail in ways that don't throw a code and burn out the catalytic converter. I suspect it could though. I've always gotten around 20-22mpg with my 3AT wagons. But I use the gas pedal.
  25. DaveT
    The wiring that triggers the starter solenoid to pull in, and crank the motor has many connectors in it;s path, and the ignition switch. One or more has developed a small amount of resistance, which prevents the solenoid from pulling in all the way. The high resistance is intermittent, so it varies, eventually gets to the point where it won't engage at all. The add on starter relay fixed both of mine.
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