DaveT

I was just thinking what does this do for you? What does it improve, etc. Other than being able to monitor the O2 level?

You could use the belts and the crankshaft to get the sprockets into position, one at a time. But get them both set first, then do the timing mark alignment, and for real belt installs, including the 1 full turn between belts trick.

There are full write ups on other threads on here. Put 3 lines on the mark. Put cam with small hole up. Install belt 1. Rotate the crank 1 full turn. Stopping on the 3 marks. Position 2nd crank sprocket with small hole at mark. Install belt 2. Small hole in opposition cam will be fully opposite it's mark now.

The running crummy and hard starting are not likely related to oil in any way. An engine will start and run fine with no oil. It just won't last very long... Check for intake and exhaust blockage, fuel deliveey, spark, timing, etc.

TOD is just the name for noisy lifters. Timing belts can be done with the car on the ground, no big deal. Look around for the procedure on the forum since you are new to subarus.

The cam sprockets are hard to turn because the springs that close the valves are strong. I took a metal bar, drilled 2 holes in it at the distance of 2 of the holes on the perimeter of the cam sprocket. Tapped the holes, screwed a bolt into the holes so that some sticks theough. Slip the bolts into the cam sprocket holes, and turn to the correct position.

An overheat this bad has always lead to headgasket replacement in my experience with EA82 SPFI engines. I check coolant every morning. Both by squeezing the upper radiator hose, and checking the level in the overflow bottle. If it begins to disappear, it is troubleshooting time. Even then, I've had an intake gasket fail, and loose enough coolant to cook the headgaskets before I knew it. Watch the condition of ALL of the cooling system hoses, don't wait for them to fail. Same with the water pump, and radiator. If you rely on the temperature gauge to indicate a cooling system problem, it's too late. I have learned this the hard way.

Mud flap mod continued. Also requires snipping a bit of the fender flap that goes down under - just enough so it does not have to go through the square hole in the original mud flap, which I have welded closed using pieces removed to eliminate the pocket that dirt collected in. The snip also leaves an opening behind the flap that debris can drop out of, instead of being trapped inside between 2 layers of sheet metal. Pulled the right fender off of the 87 tonight, the rust is bad, but at least there is metal still there....

The power steering system operates at several hundred PSI, you are not going to stop it by hand.

Ok thanks for looking. The 93 I got from CA is in amazing condition in that area. It was full of dirt, but no damage to the paint or rust yet. Have to mod the other side now.

I used Napa permatex anaerobic on mine.

No, they are automatic.

I was going to wait to see if your parts car was intact in that area. If not, or its too far gone, or you discover you need it for your car, that's ok. It's a hidden area, so I can make up something to patch it. I am also modifying the mud flaps and the fender to remove the pockets that crud collects in in the first place.

Dry and long spin is bad. Gritty is bad. smooth quiet with light drag is normal. Stiff is bad. Too much play is bad. The idler is the one with teeth, and one bolt to the block. The toothed pulley directly under the crank is the oil pump.

If the axle spins, without turning the hub, the splines are stripped. New hub. Possibly need new axle also. I have not had this happen, so I don't know for certain.

Decided to look at my 93. WAY better condition, but the design that traps dirt and moisture was doing it's job very well. This is step one of my modification of the mud flap. Step 2 is to close up the square hole that allows water and dirt thrown back and up by the tire to get right into the pocket formed by the flap and the sheet metal.

Stripped hub won't stop 4wd from working. Not sure the loose wheel would cause the hub to strip... unless it was loose also. But the 4wd should have moved the car. Bigger than stock od tires will put higher stress on the driveline, if you are inclined to apply power.

Stripped hub won't stop 4wd from working. Not sure the loose wheel would cause the hub to strip... unless it was loose also. But the 4wd should have moved the car. Bigger than stock od tires will put higher stress on the driveline, if you are inclined to apply power.

I have an 09 forester with that feature. Like mentioned above, I don't think it will let you kill the transmission. My older loyales, I drive all the time using the 1 2 D selector to get the shift points where I want them. Doing it for decades, no trouble. Even those won't let you do anything fatal, although 2 to 1 is harsh. I just don't do that often. The 09 is smooth for all I've tried so far.

Ok. Some have a lever, some a switch. I was thinking lever. I know the 3AT transmissions best.

If the clutch still feels like it did before the pops, and still starts and stops the other noise now, it probably is working. Was it in a place that you could let it roll even a little while trying to get it into 4wd?

In cars with electric fuel pumps, there is some sort of tie in to prevent the pump from running endlessly if the engine dies.

new / good idler bearings are quiet and have a bit of drag due to seals and grease. If they free spin for seconds, they are dry. If they are hard to turn, they are bad. If they feel "gritty" or rough, they are bad. If they make a sound, they are dry & bad.

That cool. Let me know what you find.

I had wondered if there was a way to clean, inspect, etc. Why the stick, or don't lift. Hmmm..