DaveT

How long did you do it what grit? It takes a looong time when I've done it just to get the fire ring marks out.

I'd do it after getting the engine up to normal operating temperature also.

I've seen 12 point bolts on construction equipment. Seemed like grade 8 or other high strength grade.

I've had good results rebuilding the idlers on my ea82 engines. Made rebuildable tensioners. I go to a local bearing supply shop. Order bearings with contact seals, and high temperature grease. Big name brand name only, no made in China crap. The whole interference engine thing does add a layer of nervous to the idea.

You could try disconnecting the wire to the pump. See if it still happens.

Check the coolant before every drive for a while at least. After a handful of drive cool cycles, it should stabilize. Check 2 ways - squeeze the upper hose sharply, hear jiggle pin in the thermostat, also listen for gurgling of air. check the level in the overflow bottle.

Oem from a dealer, or one of the highest grade Stant brand only. Stock is around 190 degrees. I have Stant ones in my cars now. One at standard temp, one at 180. There is a noticeable lowering of the heater output. But the cooler temp might be easier on seals and the like. Being diligent about monitoring coolant is important to avoid bigger repairs.

Right rear. Fuel pump is over there, just forward of the wheel. Washer pump is on the left.

They did use different ratios in some years / models. I have 1 3AT that has a different ratio than all the others I have. It is from an 86 4wd GL wagon. My others are 88, 90, 92, 93, 89. From comparing the charts in the fsms, all of the gear ratios in the gears are the same, just the final reduction and difffentials are different. I never looked at the various standard transmissions ratios.

31 isn't cold. One advantage of synthetic is that it doesn't overly thicken when cold. Once it's running, your engine is at 190 with a stock thermostat. The coldest I sometimes see is -15 here. Before I had a garage the synthetic makes a small difference in cranking speed in the morning. Having the largest battery that fits in the space, and 5 years or less age probably matters more here. The usual cross reference charts point to a battery a size or 2 smaller than I run.

How cold does it get? I run synthetic 10w 40 all year. In ea82 engines.

The thinner the metal,the more skill is required. 1/4" and up is pretty easy to learn on. 1/8" took more practice. Thinner gets pretty challenging for beginners. 1/16 and under is still a challenge. I also found that the cheap welders made it more difficult. The importance of good fit up and clean metal goes up as the work gets thinner. The position also matters, flat welding from the top is the easiest, vertical and from underneath are more challenge.

that would do it. Good to see you making progress

Ouch, that would be hard to fix. Glad you are ok.

If it's rust free, and only 129k miles, and you like it, fix or swap the engine . The lower costs of running an older car go a long way.

There's plenty of sources of pretty much anything around here. Not painting the entire car. A few touch ups here and there. A fender. If I go the route of buying a real setup, I'd end up getting a quality setup. I've used a few cheap tools, won't buy them.

Look for higher milage cars. Lots of people are spooked by high milage, and pay premium prices for low milage. I found a local guy who buys the cars dealers don't want, goes through the driveline, does the head gaskets and everything. Knows which models go forever, and the few to avoid. Paid less than a used car dealer, really clean body, nothing much to worry about for 100,000 miles.

I generally figure any time I buy a car, I may have to spend an additional 1000 to get it right. Usually don't have to, but once or twice. Beaters and parts cars don't count.

I've bought them from Subaru dealers, or as part of a Fel-Pro head set. I have rebuilt the oil pumps. Using the Fel Pro additional set that lets you re seal the entire engine.

I'm looking for paint for my 87 GL. Number on a tag under the hood is 685. Anyone know of good places to order? Brands are good or bad? Anyplace that can put it in rattle cans, as I do not have a spray setup?

I wasn't saying the head gasket blew, causing the spray. I've seen a slow leak sneak up, and not be noticed until the low coolant caused a mild overheat. In all cases I have experienced, the head gaskets then sooner or later failed, usually, the milder the overheat, the slower the failure. I've had a hose fail, spraying coolant, and noticed when the car began to run hotter than normal. A number of months later, the head gaskets began to fail, bubbles in the coolant style. Very small and slow at first, gradually worsening until unusable.

They won't nesisarily show. Been there, done that. It is very likely you will need headgaskets. Overheat due to low coolant kills headgaskets.

I have limped them with slightly blown headgaskets. Check coolant every time before starting. Add water. Only short trips. It will get to the point you can't get a few miles without loosing so much coolant you overheat again. I also run a zero pressure radiator cap when doing this with ea82 engines. Haven't had to do it with the newer ones, so I don't know if it will help or not.

From experience and what I have read, low coolant + overheat = headgasket fail. Sometimes immediately, sometimes months later. Worse the over heat, the quicker and worse the fail.

I had a new belt fail really early once.