DaveT

Cam seals and the o rings under the piece the seals press into. If the seals or o rings are leaking. What is the age and miles on the oil pump? Check the front crank shaft seal.

After being a long time no covers skeptic, I have been running without them for many years now. Have had no trouble. It seems like the idlers last longer. Maybe because more cooling from air blowing by everything.

I've had 1 carbed and several SPFI EA82 s. All used a gasket, none have a proper groove for an o ring.

Changing the oil is to try to clean it and the inside of the engine. It may or may not effect the oil pressure, but still good to do. Maybe do a change or 2 at 1000 miles. Then do normal interval. Check the oil level after the car has sat on level ground for several hours. Not while running. I only added that because I got a feeling something may be confused. It is normal for oil pressure to be higher when the engine is cold. It will vary with rpm also. I don't know typical pressures for your engine model. IT Is Best To Double Check With A Mechanical guage. 5psi at idle is not something that bothers me- there is no load on the engine. You need higher pressure when there is a heavy load.

Oil gets all up the dipstick due to the engine running. Oil gets black due to un burned carbon and dirt. Change it a few times, on a short interval. Use 10W-40 Wait for a few others with EA81s to comment, but might be worth using Marvel Mystery oil to clean things out. PCV valve has a spring in the engines I know of. Sounds like you are trying to talk about the piston rings? Those normally go well over 200K miles in a properly maintained engine. Oil smell typically is caused by oil dripping onto the hot exhaust pipes, from assorted typical leaks. If it runs great, things can't be too bad. I had an EA 82 that got very well overheated. I resealed it, but it turned out to burn oil. Lots of oil. Like almost a quart per tank of gas. I ran that engine for years, Lots of miles. Used up all of my old used oil, ATF, friend's oil changes, cheap oil on sale anywhere. I always mixed 50/50 new and whatever. I only stopped running it when one of the heads cracked and the coolant leak got so bad that I had to add a bottle of water every 8 hours, even when it was parked. It didn't smoke, and it passed emissions. Not by a lot, but it passed. About the coolant hoses, be sure you know where all of them are. I don't know the EA81 well, but there are 7 on an EA82.

+1 This: " Work on understanding how everything works and getting this motor to run well first and then later down the road when you are more proficient with a wrench you can tackle the EJ. The EA81 is literally the most bulletproof motor that subaru ever made in my opinion and is a GREAT first time motor for a young guy to work on just starting out."

Does it burn lots of oil? Does the coolant level constantly drop so you have to add more to keep it full? From the op, it does not sound like headgaskets. Dry hoses? Replace them. Especially the ones in the coolant system. Is it running well? These engines are made to spin fast, don't lug it. Reseal the oil pump.

+1 to what fairtax4me wrote. It has been my experience with EA82 engines.

EA82 uses a gasket. Not sure how an o ring could even work.

It should be leaking oil like mad by now. A reseal should fix that. OEM o rings [or other only if reinforced] for the oil channel that goes to the cam shaft.

Timing belt idlers can fail and get noisy also. Do not ignore.

Timing belt idlers can fail and get noisy also. Do not ignore.

It could be bearings in the alt, or one of the idlers. Do not ignore! Get a piece of 1/2 vinyl tubing a few feet long . Hold one end near an ear, point the other to various engine parts / areas. Will help localize the source. Be careful not to get it tangled in the fan or belts!

Yes, you have to be aware on ebay. Read feedback. Even with a few not so great deals, I am way ahead. Even including the one outright ripoff. I only buy brand names I know .

yeah, that looks no good. Probably just need a new pulley, and belt. .

Take the distributor cap off. Is the rotor intact and attached? Does it turn when you crank? When you crank with a broken timing belt, the rythm of the sound will not be even and symmetrical for the 4 compression strokes.

The original bolts would be steel.

And watch the coolant level very closely. Overheat is bad for headgaskets.

Check timing belts first. Especially if the sound it makes cranking is not the normal pattern.

How is it for rust? Where is it?

That looks like the same color as my 87.

Things. Check timing? I had a blocked cat once, didn't cause overheat, but talk about no power... was coolant getting pushed out of the radiator? Put 10psi on the cooling system - does it hold?

The transmission is out of a 1987 wagon. It was very rusted. It ran ok when I got it, was going to use it as a winter / beater car. I put in a new clutch. Almost got it registered. Then I got another in better condition, so I registered it instead. The 87 still had way more value in parts for me to keep my others going than I could get selling it, so I disassembled it and sold the sheet metal for scrap. The 4 speed trans has been stored in my climate controled basement ever since. I think the car had between 100 and 150k miles. I am in CT.

You would want the front harness,ECU, and intake and related bits off a SPFI. I have a 4x4 hi lo transmission and clutch and flywheel I don't need . I should have the rear diff around also.

Safe to say with that many miles and years on the pump, the seal is shot.