DaveT

TOD comes and goes, until the cause gets bad. 10 w 30 is thin and doesnt help for an ea82 unless you are in very cold climate. How many miles and years are on the oil pump and it's seal? These engines are made to spin fast, not lug. If I'm near wide open throttle at 3000rpm, I often downshift. Most of the stones in a can rattles I've had were loose beat shields on the exhaust. A small exhaust leak can sound similar to TOD, but will dissappear instantly any time you let go of the gas pedal, TOD won't. I've never had one come and go, just slowly get louder over time.

You may know this, but I have to ask, because it could help other newbies reading this thread someday, how did you check the fuses? Visual inspection is not reliable.

+1 to naru.

The check valve is in the line between the manifold and the reservoir. It's a small plastic thing. Manifold-hose-valve-hose-reservoir.

I guess it could work... check and recheck that everything will clear. Same with blocking / cribbing the engine and driveline and suspension parts. If your hydraulics hold steady. And you are skilled at find adjustments with the hoe position.

The heat will likely cause it to soften, and increase the likelihood of it kinking. The incompatibility failure is a longer term issue.

01 Outback wrote: "Bottom line don't buy the cheapies...." Agree. Don't wast time.

Fuel line may not stand up to the chemicals in coolant. I made this mistake many years ago. Luckily, it failed when I was about a half mile from home.

Double check the spark plug wires. One of my first reseals, I had swapped a pair. It ran on 2 cylinders, but really bad.

The air vents changing is fixable. The check valve between the manifold and the reservoir is failing, or there is a leak in the system after it.

The ac 2 second run is to move oil and keep the seals and stuff oiled and free.

I should have noted that, yes, I'm referring to EA82s. Always seals on all valves.

There should be seals on all of the valves. The Fel Pro kits come with intake and exhaust seals.

Nothing you list suggests head gaskets. Coolant problems are the typical sign for head gaskets. 10w 40 oil. Idle when hot, the built in gauge typically shows what looks like zero. 45psi running down the highway at 4000rpm when hot is normal for my EA82 engines.

Ah, I couldn't see it on mobile. Whatever caused it to fall out, I wouldn't trust just putting it back in. I've never seen one do that.

What are you asking about? The gunk needs to be cleaned off, then resurface by using the post apocalyptic method Ora shop.

Another way to deal with this is to buy blank gasket sheet and cut your own. Some car parts stores have it, as well as suppliers like McMastercarr and MSdirect.

The 3 marks for timing belt install are (very) roughly 180 degrees from the timing marks.

My examples are 34 to maybe 50. Probably the over speed limit around 5. Some might push to around 10. I usually push the shifter to 3 at the tpp of knoqn hills, so I don't know what the ultimate would be.

The hills around here, where the car will overspend the cruise setpoint, will over speed zero throttle unless you downshift. Most of these are on secondary roads, not multilane highways. This is my experience in automatics. 01 and 09 forester mostly, but any other random car I've ever driven also.

Oh, and piston rings... The headgasket failures I've had were all the small slow stream of bubbles in the overflow reservoir. Those don't show up on a compression test. Another thread on here, pointed out that if you can get a couple of moderately strong people, you can lift the engine out without a hoist or rigging.

I got it from one of the online discount Subaru parts dealers . I did have to clean the contacts on the lamp connectors. Put a tiny bit of copper antisieze on them too.

It was a little over 300.00. It was really nice not to have to do any customizing just to put them in, and it all went smoothly.

Somewhere I've seen it done. But not that way. The intake was replaced with 2 piece assembly - I believe to deal with the expansion difference between the entire block at operating temperature and the now cool manifold.

We got a 2009 Forester a couple weeks ago. I bought the fog light kit from Subaru. Today, I installed the fog light kit on the 09 Forester. Good parts- kit came with everything needed, including a new lever with the switch for the fog lights, and installed easy. Relay just plugged into an existing socket. Bad parts - have to remove the entire front plastic "bumper" & grille piece to install the lights. Aiming is a pain, since the adjuster screw is in the back, and all the covers get in the way. But the dumbest thing, is the way the switches control the lights. Grrr. All of my older Subarus have the headlights shut off if the ignition is switched off, so you cannot accidentally leave the lights on and kill the battery while parked. STUPID CHANGE. The Fog lights only light when the headlights are on. OK for helping in rain and other situations, but when you need fog lights the most - in heavy fog or snow - you actually want the headlights OFF. Grrr. Stupid design.