DaveT

Intake gasket failure won't cause overheat. Unless you run it long enough to loose too much coolant. My experience has been overheat and you will need to replace headgaskets. Sooner or later, but it is inevitable. Running without oil, you probably need bearings and possibly grinding the crankshaft. Cam shaft bearing surfaces, oil pump. ....

Oh nuts, got mixed up. I've done a lot more on EA82s.

There may be some online scans. I've seen them on ebay sometimes. I bought mine from dealers a long time ago.

For oil pump priming - get a socket adapter that you can chuck in a drill. Spin the pump until you feel it load up, before installing the timing belt.

Here is a car with lifter tick. Of 1 lifter. Search "tick of death" for a few more.

Is it a deep knocking sound, or more of a thin tick / click? It's common for a lifter to stick, and the clicking / ticking is loud. Search "Tick of death" , there has been a lot of info about cause & fixing.

I've had a couple where the pulse damper on the end rotted out. Found a way to mod them, removing the damper, plugging the hole. I'll have to get some pics sometime.

For a temp guage, [or anything else] I would look around, local places, online, etc. Don't buy the cheapest. I try to avoid made in China crap. Actually, I should go looking for one for my Dynahoe.

Factory Service Manual probably has them, and how to adjust them.

You heard correctly. In addition to checking the radiator, check all 7 (for a non turbo) cooling system hoses. There may be more on a turbo

The electric fan is mounted on the passenger side of the radiator. The main fan is more driver's side, mounted on the water pump with a viscous clutch. At least on EA82 SPFI 4WD wagons.

To fix squealing belts - Get new belts, apply proper tension. Once they get slipped too many times, they are shot.

Yes, a steady oil leak can work well. I had a car a long time ago that had one, mostly on one side. That side was pretty rust free when I disassembled it for parts. Waxoyl is good for places you can't see, can't get at. It doesn't really dry hard, soaks into places, and stops whatever is rusting.

It's been too long for me since working on a carb, but that's not an adjustment issue. Something else has gone wrong / plugged , leaking, etc.

Waxoyl. A Web search should turn up info and where to buy.

Is the engine a 2.2 or a 2.5? It was overdue for timing belts and idlers, those are supposed to be done around 100 miles.

It's more volatile, so probably do similar.

R12 is used in refrigerators & freezers because the boiling point is more efficient for the colder temperatures required. R22 is usually used for room AC. R 12 was used in cars to get more cooling with smaller equipment - space saving.

Try a 1 to 2 second shot of carb cleaner in the throttle body, then crank. If it fires, you have a fuel problem. Other thing to try, hold gas pedal about half way down and crank.

Check that the axle nut is tight.

There is a hole in a little piece on top of the passenger side strut tower. You pop the hood stay out of it's normal location, put it in that hole, lift the hood almost vertical, and the other end fits in the slot near the usual hole you normally use.

What about using a mirror? I so dislike modern engines....

Aside from doing whatever you need to remember everything to reconnect. Afrwr removing the motor mount bolts, get a jack under the transmission, lift it an inch. When you are trying to get the engine off of the transmission, or putting back together, the crankshaft and transmission input shaft have to be in a straight line relative to each other. If you have a standard shift, the clutch splines have to align. It should not take a lot of force either way. It's just something that takes a little getting used to, trying to get a heavy thing precisely moved. Sometimes the pins between the engine and transmission can be crusty making removal a little sticky. Clean them up before re assembly.

Ok from what I see in the listing, they should be real OEM. The list of engine displacements sounds ok. The newer EA82 series only had 1.8s in the US, as far as I know. So it sounds like they are for older engines. The OEM ones I bought recently for my EA82 rebuilds are black, and have a slippery feel to them. They also have metal reinforcing in an inner layer. I do not know if the older ones were made this way.

Some things you won't find, just fill out the contact form with what you want.