DaveT

Subaru-parts-dealer.com

IF it is like the newer EA82 powered cars, there is a connector or 2 that is getting higher resistance. There are several in the wire rout from the fuse box to the starter. I gave up trying to find them. I did the relay mod. There are a few threads on adding a start relay. The clocks are also notorious for clearing and also just not lighting. I added a capacitor and a diode to the always powered wire to the clock. No resets since.

I have had 2 battles with the p0420 code on my 01 Forester. Sensors did not help. New cat solved it one time. The other time, one of the brackets had snapped, and rubbed a small hole in the pipe. Patched the hole, and cleared the codes. Passed.

I'll have to rely on someone familiar with EA81s for specifics - But yes, do the valve seals. You need to rig something to compress the springs to remove the keepers. If you leave the valves in place, do them 1 at a time, no worries about mixing them up. I've lapped them on a few engines, but it didn't seem very necessary. You need to resurface the heads, either DIY with the post apocalyptic method, or a machine shop can do it for $. You may have to touch up the block surfaces also. This all can be done on the car, it's just a lot easier to do on a stand. I think I did my first one on the car. I now have the equipment, and spare engines, so I get one ready, then do a swap. Since your engine runs, when you are ready to disassemble it, run it to normal operating temperature. Think this all through, and plan and have tools ready before you start - the idea is to do this all while the engine is still as warm as possible. If you are running a normal pressure radiator cap, release the pressure first. Then loosen the intake manifold bolts VERY carefully. Do this ASAP after shutdown. Once they start to turn freely, you can move to the next one. And the head bolts. If you try to remove them cold, the risk of snapping one is a lot higher. I had one intake bolt so crudded up that it would not pull out of the intake manifold clearance hole, but it unscrewed from the block. I worked it out gradually later.

OEM are supposed to be re torqued. Fel Pro permatorque don't need to be.

can't answer directly, but maybe this helps? All of the radiators I have have the lower neck angled up and to the side a little. I have used this style in everything from a 1986 to a 1993. I did come across one radiator with a different angle on the lower port, but it was too long ago to remember. The style with the angled up neck uses the same hose for the upper and lower connection to the engine. I've had EA82 wagons from 86, 87, 88, 90, 92, 93. No turbos, but I have used turbo radiators in most of them also.

This is how I do under car work.

Oem or Gates. Don't mess with timing belts.

That sucks! I'd try to save it. I don't care if the insurance totals it. They won't pay what it's worth anyway. Obviously, you have to remove the bumper and fender, see what else is bent. Look at the roof line, and the doors and the frame under them. If that stuff looks ok, it's a lot easier. All of the engine stuff is fixable / replaceable. My 86, my wife was driving, hit a big old American car. It was more of a corner hit, pushed the driver's side wheel all the way back till the rim bent on the frame part the door mounts to. I didn't try to save it, since there were plenty of them around back then. But I decided to use it around my lot for a while, so I took it apart, beat stuff back into shape. Replaced the suspension parts. Never took it on the road. The frame was bent, there was a ripple in the roof. But it did work again.

wow. Nuts.

I've always thought they were 12.

I've bought the water pumps from NAPA. Get the best quality level. I have thought about rebuilding them. Have to figure out where to get the seals. I'm pretty sure that the bearings are standard size. Don't know if the coolant really hurts the belts. But the leak will lead to hurting headgaskets.

Hopefully a couple of the guys with weber can add to this. I think they can help a little with power. Switching to the SPFI system gets you something like 10hp, but it's a lot of work, since you need the computer and all that too. Porting is tons of work for very small gains from what I've read over the years here. Not sure if raising the compression is a good idea. Easy enough to get pinging as is. Headgaskets and cooling system are sensitive also. Cooling system is just adiquit for the stock engine.

These cars are on the slow side, but that sounds a bit slower than normal. Keep in mind, if you put tires that are bigger od on it, it will be slower. Check all the typical tune up things, check for obstruction of the intake and exhaust. Consider replacing the water pump while doing the reseal.

There are a good number of threads about modding ea82 engines. You have to spend a lot of cash and time to get small improvements. Is yours carb, or SPFI?

The cam lobes leave more than 1/2 of the rotation where there is no lift, so being dead on TDC shouldn't be an issue for closing. Just turn a bit past when both valves are closed. That's what I did with my 1976 when I adjusted the rockers. I never had one with hydraulic lifters and adjusters. Theoretically, just roughly back where they were should be ok. It seems odd to me that you could not get both sides to be similar, even using an incorrect procedure.

Yes, assuming everything is original, there are pressure dampers every where. They are not regulators. There is one built right on an original fuel pump. I've had them rot out and leak. I came up with a mod to remove them and use an extra line Mounted one from a parts car.

For SPFI - There is the fuel pump at the back. There is a damper thing in the line, it is not a regulator. It won't stop the car from running. Swapped lines would, I expect, cause no start, from the sound of it. Apply reverse polarity to the fuel pump will make it run backwards, and won't start. That one, I discovered unintentionally, but I know it for certain, as I tested it. Fuel pressure gauge good for at least 30PSI at the filter, good test. Better Teed in. I've never had to do anything with the pressure regulator, it would have to be in / on the throttle body.

I've resealed a few EA82s. Some have been partially disassembled for years, so no oil to speak of in the adjusters. Just primed the oil pump with a drill before installing the timing belts. The ticking goes away after a while, and a good number of drive cycles. On the way out, it comes and goes.

My experience with the ticking is that it takes a few drives to go away mostly. Then intermittently comes and goes for a while.

From what I see mentioned above, thus is an EA82 engine? If so, there are no adjustments for the valve lash. They are automatic hydraulic. Sometimes one or 2 will get sticky or an air bubble.

Spfi or carb?

Some things that might help - EA82 GL & Loyale wagon based: [i am not sure if there may be any differences for a GL-10] Coolant is always pumped through the heater core, even when the engine thermostat is closed - it's the "bypass" so the pump isn't dead headed. If you are so low on coolant that you have no / low heat, you're in for blown head gaskets. The temperature of the air from the vents is adjusted by the lever - it moves a door that directs air through the heater core or around it. It is mechanically moved by a cable. Vacuum powered actuators move the doors for the vent choices. The only difference between A/C and A/C MAX button position is that in max, the blower draws air from the interior of the car, as opposed to fresh air for all other settings. If air flow doesn't change, the problem could be vacuum, actuators door linkage, or stuff in the ducts. I've seen mice eat the sealing material of of the doors - possibly interfering with the air routing?

The pump was working after the reseal, and before the oil and filter change? I don't think I'd pull it. I don't see a cause - effect. Trying to think "what would I do?"... Try installing the old filter. = maybe something is bad wrong with the new one. remove the timing belt, turn the pump with my drill driven 12mm socket. A bunch of work, but you have to go here to remove the pump anyway. I do this when rebuilding, before installing the timing belt, to prime the pump. It takes a while sometimes. You will know when the pump starts pumping, as the load will increase. The lifter tick will not instantly disappear. It will come and go for a while usually.

I've owned several EA82 wagons. The temperature gauges on some read normal at about 1/4 scale, some at about 1/2 scale. The absolute calibration is inconsistent from car to car. BUT if the gauge ever rises significantly above where it normally sits when things are running right, that is when you can have a problem. Sounds like you got most of the other problems hunted down. As far as the vents go, there isn't much fancy about them, so maybe something is blocking or partially blocking the duct.