DaveT
-
Posts
5087 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
86
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by DaveT
-
-
Zerk. It's the grease fitting. Upper right arm of the cross in the picture above.
-
That's the fun of these old cars. Have to collect spare cars, parts, watch ebay, forums, etc.
-
By about a half inch, IIRC....
Older GLs, that were essentially the same 86-87 - the 4WD front struts had adjustable height, the perch could be adjusted over about 1" of range. If you search long and hard, you might find those, but they also probably will cost more than the typical in between the extremes aftermarket struts. Those are pretty hard to find also.
-
They are NLA. Only chance is to get very lucky and find one on ebay, or someone on a forum like this who is done with that engine style. Or machine one from a block of aluminum.
Use extreme care getting the old one out. -
A good locksmith might be able to make a key.
These old cars are a challenge to keep running - you have to diy, or have big wads of cash when you find someone specialized enough to want to touch them. Collect spare parts, make parts, etc...
-
I much prefer the factory service manuals, but I got them when the cars were only a couple years old.... Now, you have to watch ebay, and these forums for anyone deciding to move onto newer vehicles.
-
The ignition switch is the one turned by the key. The switch part is inside straight in from where the key hole is.
I am not specifically familiar with the 82s. But the coil hot side (+) side should have 12V with the key on with anything older than 1994 Loyales anyway. The (-) side of the coil is switched by the points, Electronic ignition, or the ECU depending on what system they used.
Do you know the engine type? It's a number on the bell housing, like EA71, EA81, EA82
-
It could be done with small relays. And a few diodes.
-
-
My 86 FSM shows the toe and camber adjustments using the 3 bolts. They do interact. I got lucky when I corrected the toe on mine, didn't have to fight with a bunch of interaction. Yes, they don't move much, but apparently, they have a noticeable effect. With them as far out as you have, you don't have much to loose trying to adjust them. They are a pain, you have to pull the tire off to really get at them.
At least get the bolts freed and anti siezed , then start trying to get the angles set.I can try to scan the page tomorrow.
-
The ride height might mess with that some. In your pic of the wheel, it looks like it's leaning in at the top, that's opposite of where mine are, unless I have a really heavy load of stuff in the back. [I have mine set on the highest notch on the rear shocks] Worth checking the bushings too. The big tube that all the rear suspension bolts to - make sure it's not rotted out.
-
1
-
-
-
I had a thread / post about this, and a rig to DIY. The only adjustment is the 3 bolts on the trailing arm.
-
I was only thinking of the wagons, I edited my post, don't want anyone confused.
-
I am pretty sure - for wagons only - 86 through 94 are the same. Drum brakes, rear, 4wd vs fwd no difference. Somewhere before 86, they were not auto adjusting, but the difference a hole in the shoes, and a couple of other parts. I never compared the cylinders.
-
Look for loose connections?
-
1
-
-
Interesting. Thank you. I have some stuff to read and watch....
-
What does closed deck vs open deck mean? I haven't seen this terminology used before.
-
Found it on the car I was thinking didn't have one - look to the right of the hood latch, from the front.
-
I went and looked - One has a sticker on the top of the driver's side strut tower. The other doesn't have one that I can find. I think I remember one having one on a tag under a bolt or screw. Like one of the fender bolts, or one of the screws on top of a strut tower that also holds another piece of small parts. If it has one, it's not in a hidden place, it's somewhere pretty easy to find, just looking around at the surfaces of sheet metal. Might be worth looking in the door jam / door edge areas, but I don't think they were there.
-
At least a few of mine had a tag unset the hood.
Some parts stores have color analyzers remove the gas cap door, to bring in a sample.
-
It ea81. Distributor is on th e front, left of center. I didn't realize the power steering pump was the same. Also, no timing belts or covers I can see in the pics.
-
1
-
-
might be worth checking the CTS. It can fail and not trigger the CEL.
-
As far as I can remember, for the fronts - They are the 2 screw all stainless type. I got one set with my 86, which I bought in 88. And the second set were on my 90, bought in 92. After that, they all had the 2 screw spring arm part, but the previous owners / mechanics had swapped on the crap throw away type instead of using refills.
These are the 4WD GL / Loyales I have had - blue 86, red 87, blue 88, brown 88, white 90, white 92, silver 93. I have many mechanical & electrical parts from all of them, keeping the 87 and the 93 running. The 86 got massively damaged in an accident, and totaled. Frame bent to the point of the roof and driver's door were even messed up. I eventually got it running to use around the yard for a while, before it became a parts source. The others died due to rusting away.
Battery draw down
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Made a discovery -
In the wagons with the annoying power shoulder belts. If you leave the driver's door slightly open, the control system draws 160mA indefinitely, draining the battery over the course of a few days. Just another reason to replace them with manual ones.