DaveT
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Posts posted by DaveT
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Do all ea82's have the dual springs, .
I've had a few apart, as far as I know they all do.
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I would buy a Subaru powered unit over a Honda powered unit, or a B&S powered unit.
Anything but a Briggs or similar noisy air cooled engine.
My generators:
http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/gen.html
The small one purrs - can hardly hear it inside. The big one is about the same as a big american car on fast idle.
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Also check the wheel alignment. The other stuff mentioned needs to be checked first, before bothering with alignmnet..
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Tempus Fugit
It must be rare, but the clock in my 90 still works, never broke. This does not apply to any of the other Subaru clocks I have. Including 6 other Loyale / GL and our 01 Forester.
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i have part of my oil pump broke off in my block and not sure how to go about removing it.
Been a long time since I touched anything older than an EA82...
A rough / starter idea:
Drill & tap into some part of the broken piece, or catch a bolt head on the edge of a passageway in the stuck piece. Use a pry bar against a nut on the bolt.
You may need 2 or 3 locations to work it out. It must come straight out or it will bind.
Turning the piece might help. I remember some of them being looser & tighter at different angles.
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I have this odd idea about how neat it would be to see an engine running on a stand.
I made one. Rebuilt engine, mount to a spare tranny, fired it up. Makes retorqueing the heads easier.
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rust. I wouls like to stop or slow it down alot.
WD40 is too thin, evaporates.
I have used this stuff:
http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/
Good on the inside of doors & panels & rockers & fenders. Metal does not have to be clean for it to stop the rust. I have used it on my hitches, years later, when moving the hitch to the next car, no problems with rusted bolts. CT salted roads in winter.
I just applied POR15 to some rear end parts. Much more involved process.
I'm thinking POR 15 the outside, Waxoyl the inside.
One of my cars years ago had the oil leak going on, that side of the car was rust free, but messy.
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That's $1500 in parts for a car I paid $500
Assuming it's a no rust body, that's a $2000.00 car that should be reliable for a long while. I'd drop a grand on parts for my "new" 87 if I need to, since it should be around for 10 years. If anything takes it out early, they go into the next one.
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If you have a high mile crapped out or badly maintained motor that is held together by gunk,
One of the pre EA82 engines I ran it in was good, but pretty gunky. I don't remeber how long it was, maybe a year or few, when I took the rocker covers off it was clean!
The Amsoil filters are rated for finer filtration and longer change intervals.
Warranty? WTF is a warranty?
Out of 10 cars, 2 had warranties. After 90 days, I convert. Takes that long to get projects in the que.I'm not running synthetic in my beater, just used oil & cheap oil since it burns over 1qrt / week. Handy way to get rid of old oil.
Synthetic or not depends on all the variables.
For me, saving the time not doing oil changes makes it worth it.
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What I have gathered is that way back when the first attempts with synthetic were made, there were problems with the oil damaging seals. Somethin about the formulation, etc.. As far as I know, this wouldn't apply to current synthetics.
I have switched 3 high milage EA82s to synth. 1) 1978 1600 4x4 wagon. 1 loyale - my 1990 was switched when we bought it with 15K miles. I use the Amsoil bypass filter & air cleaner & engine filter also. NEVER changed the oil in that car. Only added ocasionally. Around 170K miles took the engine out to do a reseal. Checked some of the bearings, etc. All well in the standard sizes. Crosshatch still on cylender walls.
I don't baby the car. Big loads. Towing. 5-6K RPM getting on highway.
OK, you can have the same results with regular oil, 3K changes. But I didn't spend all the time and / or money to do them. I did the math back when, it doesn't take too long to break even on the cost / return on investment.
No problem with leaks. Some had leaks, some leaked eventually - years later, like they all do - 190+ degrees doesn't make the seals last forever. No burning oil problems.
Never had an engine failure - other than timing belts or electric related.
I also use the sythetic ATF & gear lube.
Only repair to the much maligned 3AT trasmissions in 4 cars has been the vacuume modulator.
Can you drive around for a week with regular oil and water mixed in the crank case? (50/50 by the end - long story, stupid oops) And the engine still runs good after new gaskets. Burns oil, but that was caused by the run-dry overheat that caused the coolant leak...
Just things that I have done / seen / experienced with 4 EA 82s over almost 20 years.
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Is this removed with a punch & hammer?
The rears on a 4WD are different than the front - they are tapered roller bearings.
Here is the tool to unscrew the nut on the inside, that holds the bearings:
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=275
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Parts of a bearing:
Inner race
Rollers / balls
Cage - keeps the rollers / balls from touching.
Outer race
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If you open the system, or it hasn't been working for a long time due to lack of freon, it needs to be vacuumed. Quite a while ago, I posted on how to make your own vacuume pump from an old air conditioner.
The dye is a good idea, it makes finding the leak much simpler.
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that often the inserts in the covers strip, or get rusted and seize to the bolt...then they start cracking and falling apart and becoming a complete annoyance.
Her's how I deal with that - Take covers off - clean rust off bolts -reasemble with anti-seize. Don't over tourque on assembly. No problem next time in.
I have been running my 90 beater car without covers since about mid -06 with no trouble. Street only.
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If you are talking about a long right turn, and you take it at a good speed, in a SPFI EA82, there is a Subaru modification kit that fixes this problem.
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Alternator output at fast idle is 14-15 VDC, as expected. The strange thing is there is also 30 VAC present!
Do I have a diode gone?
Sounds like it. Time to replace the rectifier assembly. I have yet to buy an alternator. I have replaced the rectifiers, regulators, brushes, cleaned slip rings with fine sandpaper, replaced bearings.
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Is it more likely that this is a problem with the electronic push button dash control unit... or with some sort of linkage that controls where the air blows?
The buttons control air valves that rout vacuum or not to various diaphragms that move flaps that rout the air.
There is 1 "main feeder" vacuume line to the selector - I think it should be on the passenger side under the hood near the firewall. check that it is connected / not leaking / etc. first.
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The topic was hotroding an EA82, I made some points on why it's limited, namely the 3 90 degree turns the air has to make to get into the cylinder, and said why removing the heated manifold would be a dumb idea.
Some time ago, I came across someone who made a "seperated" intake. Forget if it was an EA81 or 82, it was a number of years ago, for airplane use. Made custom flanges and ran the coolant seperated from the intake. Had a section with hose to allow for the cool intake not expanding as much as the whole block. They claimed about 10 HP or so.
I don't remember if they used the coolant passage immediatly under th throttle body to prevent icing, but I suppose you could keep that.
Maybe I should attach a couple of my thermocouples to the intake and see how warm it is. Or better yet, measure the temperature of the intake mixture itself.
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What can you tell me about the camshaft end seals and the main seal jobs?
Cam seals are easy. remove the cam pully, there are 2 bolts that hold a piece that holds the seal. There is an o-ring that seals the piece, and it goes bad about the same time as the seal.
I have not replaced a front main, haven't had trouble with them. Maybe if youu're over 180K miles. Over 100K, probably good to do the oil pump orings.
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It's basically expecting a small vacuum leak through the (correct diameter) port of the carbon canistor. But here's the real crappy part - it opens and closes the purge solenoid every 1.5 seconds.
Hmm, Every once in a while I've noticed the idle bouncing up & down at a rate close to that. Very rarely. Next time I'll have to time it. Think about what else could combine to cause the weird idle.
Yes, the ECU computer is simple. The check for the solenoid is some kind of check for current when it's energized. If you disconnect it, it will trigger the CEL, but only when the ECU tries to turn it on. (Actually, I saw this while troubleshooting the EGR solenoid, (I put a monitor LED on it) but it should be the same.)
I know from experience, that the O2 sensor can go bad in a way that the ECU does not see as an error, and the front catalytic converter ends up bad.
This is a guess - maybe the dealer code is "figured" in software by some combo of signals.
I have thought about reverse engineering an ECU.
In a few years, I could do a megasquirt, since the cars will be old enough to skip emmissions.
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Tap the bearing cap/cover while turning the drum and the drum will come off?
Sorry, the cap will come off. Then you can get at the locking device, nut, etc...
The cap should be a stamped sheetmetal cup wiht a ridge rolled into the edge. The ridge should be up against the brake drum if the cap was installed properly.
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the four things you screw your lug nuts onto
Studs.
and a black round thing in the middle?Bearing cap / cover. Tap lightly, sideways with a hammer while turning the drum, it will work it's way out.
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I doubt you could get one for a sube.
Look here:
http://ramengines.com/_wsn/page2.html
Expensive, yes.
Available, yes.
are these solenoids interchangeable?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
As long as the air paths have the same function (w/power & w/o power) it should work.
I use these, and they aren't from a Subaru:
http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html