DaveT
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Posts posted by DaveT
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is has started up every time now , just the 1 time
I have had the no start - click only - problem a few times. Once due to a loosend contact in the wiring harness. The other 2 major origins have been:
1. One of the contacts inside the starter erodes from the arcing at each start until the disc on the solenoid doesn't touch.
2. The disc gets dirty from the arcing.
Either of these failures begins as an intermittant no crank, or turn the key and a split second later crank. As time goes by, it gets more and more frequent.
I have a few starters that I made new contacts for, still working. Recently had to clean a couple. Actually, thinking about it, the starters are pretty darned reliable. In my 15+ years with these cars, I have never bought a starter. Only made a few contacts and cleaned the disc.
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The brake pads are clamped together and the E brake and the normal brakes are not engaged at all.
Unhook the E-brake cable, if it is connected. One side of the caliper is held to the pad guide frames with a bolt with a 14mm bolt head. Remove the bolt, the frame will swing the pads out of the caliper. To get the piston back in, it needs to be turned clockwise. I made a tool to do this from a piece of 1" square steel tube about 2' long. Cut the tool end to fit in the notches in the pistonm. Find a big (like 3/4") bolt that fits in the tube for a swivel on the opposite end. I put a glove between me and the bolt head, and lean against it to keep the tool engaged with the piston. Turn the tube with a 1" open end wrench. It is a fine thread, so it takes a while. DO NOT hit the piston, or use more force than you can apply by leaning / pushing on the bar.
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Well, you can have some lighting fun... On my 78, I modified the lamp mounts to put in 4 of the high/low headlights. The aftermarket kind that use 55/60W halogen H4 bulbs. Made a relay box and a panel on the dash. I could have "normal" lights, 4 low beam pattern all on, all 4 high beam on, ALL 8 filaments on. and several other combos. The high / low switch chose between 2 settings. 460watts of light plus the 55 W fog lights was pretty impressive.
It really didn't matter if some one was coming toward you with their high beams on...I made a harness - the stock one could not do this. All of the high current was controlled by relays. The alternator was stock, except I mounted a set of heavy duty rectifier diodes in another box, outside of the alternator because the internal ones kept blowing out.
I have thought of upgrading one of my Loyales with a remake of that system, just one of the too many projects...
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don't need amsoil
waste of money lol... I wouldn't use it without the bypass, and the other filters, and no changes. And, of course, no excessive leaks or burning. I did the math years ago, (could dig it up again) but under those conditions, Amsoil is cheaper than 3000 mile changes.
I do not miss changing oil. I have no experience with turbos, but I have had no ill effects with any of the 4 non-turbo GLs / Loyales I have / had, and run with it.
same car had amsoil in the trans... every gear whined so loud the stereo couldn't drown it out.. so i changed the tranny..
That must have been a bad tranny or wrong oil. When I had my 76 & 78 Subies, they shifted much better (especially in cold weather) with the synthetic gear lube. The shifter moved as easily at 0 degrees as middle of summer. I occasionally towed 1000lbs with those cars. The 76 had almost 250Kmiles when the body rotted in half. The only reason I stopped driving it.
The 3spd ATs in the GLs & Loyales all shift better when cold with the synthetic ATF. I ocasionally tow with them, also. The only tranny repairs have been vacume modulators. I Changed the ATF at about 100K miles.
The GL / Loyale experience is based on 3 cars, over 100K miles on each car, by me or my wife.
None were driven lightly.
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One last question. I noticed when I rotate the LHS tensioner pulley, it sounds as though the bearings are dry. The RHS tensioner pulley runs smooth. I'm wonderning if this contributed to my LHS belt breaking? Or does the LHS (longer) usually break first?
I have never had a RHS belt break. I have been running GLs & Loyales for about 16 years. I figure the extra load of oil pump and the extra length must have something to do with the longer belt failing. One time the gear idler bearing seized & took out the belt. I rebulid the idlers. The gear one is a standard ball bearing - except I had the local bearing house get me high temperature grease with contact seals. For the tensioners, I made up standoffs on a lathe and used the flat braket part from a set of dead ones. Now I remove a bolt, bress on a new bearing. And the pully from the dead one. Same deal with the grease and seals. They are standard bearings also.
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The theory is that since sythetic cleans your motor out, it dissolves crud that is currently holding the oil in (at compromised seals).
The highest I converted had 60-80K miles. No change in consumption or leaks in any I put Amsoil in. After some number of hours at high temperatures, the seals get hard and leak. Never saw any crud built up where it owould help a seal. The hard crispy rubber scrapes the shaft shiny.
One of the engines I put synthetic in was pretty gunky, it cleaned the gunk out.. Not sure, as it was a long time ago, but maybe a year or so when I took it apart for some other reason, it was all clean inside.
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I dont know if any one is interested or not but my amsoil dealer was telling me about a service they offer.
They sale a kit that (roughly 22 dollars) checks your oil to see how your motor is holding up.
I did that a few times when I first tried Amsoil. I use it in all my cars & equipment. My 90 Loyale got Amsoil 100% synthetic 10W-40, bypass filter, and their air and oil filters at 15K miles, 2 years old. I ran that engine for at least 150K miles, changed / cleaned filters 1/year. Added oil as needed, never changed. Pulled it apart to replace all of the seals & gaskets due to oil leaks. Crank and connecting rod bearings, wrist pins all still in factory spec. Factory hone marks still visible on cylinder walls. It has less wear than the other 2 I resealed. They had more miles when I got them & converted them.
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When I redid the timing belts so they were aligned correctly I lined the crank up to the 0 degree mark on the flywheel and then lined up the driver side camshaft. In another thread on this forum I saw someone talking about lining them up at the second line, (10 degrees...)
This sound worng. About 1/2 a turn of the flywheel from the TDC -10 0 10 marks are 3 lines |||. The center one should line up with the pointer on the housing. The cam shaft hole should be lined up with the notch in the cover. Tension the first belt. Turn the engine w/ wrench 1 revolution, line up on the center mark. Set the 2nd timing pully to line up hole & notch. Tension 2nd belt. If it is correct, you can feel each cylender compression as you wrench the crankshaft. It should hit the compression every 90 degrees.
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Another little tip I discovered:
After you have the belts on, timing double checked - Start & run for 10 seconds or so. Or roll it by wrench something annoying like 10 turns. The belts will walk into position where they will run. Invariably, retensioning will be required. Once, I had one that wanted to run up against the side of one of the flanges on the crank pully. Took it off, flipped it, and it ran in a much better position.
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My "new" 87 has under 88K. Baby to me. All my others (90,92) are in the 180K area.
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Yes, it is the center mark that you want to use.
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Back when I was younger and a little crazier, I hauled a 12V 1000AH lead acid battery set from Vermont to Connecticut in my 76 1400cc 4spd 4WD wagon. Each cell weighed about 150Lbs for a total of about 900lbs. It handled pretty wierd - big delay in steering wheel input to actual change of direction on the highway... I made it, no problems.
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I put the "flat" side in, and the "spring/flap" side out toward CV/hub.
That will keep water / dirt out if it is at higher pressure than the housing. It won't keep the grease in. The spring should not be exposed to the outside environment. All of the wheel bearing seals I have seen have the extra flap mentioned previously also. The spring goes toward the grease, the extra lip helps keep out dirt.
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i expected to find a metal sleeve of sorts in here....
Yes, there should be a sleeve between the bolt and the rubber.
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Question is, for any experts out there, how the heck can a nut that's torqued down tight and has a cotter pin run through it come that loose?
I'll guess that the shaft hadn't pulled all the way in, then it moved with use / temperature cycles. I found a front CV shaft on a recently acquired car that way - didn't look wrong from the outside, but then I noticed a gap between the inner seal and the CVJ.
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also occasionally I would hear (and see if I was quick enough after turning engine off) bubbles in the overflow.... it did ever so slowly use/lose coolant too.
Yes, those were symptoms of my above mentioned small headgasket leak also.
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Dave you remove the brakes I'm guessing so you can pull the shaft out more freely, but if you do it on-car with pullers it would still work right? Looks like I need to use my larger set of pullers or sacrifice my brass hammer (it was the thin metal extensions that broke on one arm, the end came off like shrapnel when it snapped).
I am just thinking this - with the brakes & rotor on, you have to pull against the rotor. The brakes only hold on one side of the rotor. Appling a force to the axel referenced off the rotor is going to twist the rotor out of line with the bores thorugh the bearings. Any missalignment would aggravate friction sticking the axel in the bearings. In cases of looser fits, this would probably work ok. In some of the tighter ones I have run into, not very well - broken tools, ruined parts.
I remove the brakes by removing the 2 17mm head bolts that hold the whole assembly to the knuckle, and hang the brake with a piece of wire so the line isn't stressed. I have never done the on car version of this. The puller I use is big enough to push on the end of the axel, and the arms catch the inner edge of the casting. It is a little tricky getting the little puller "hooks" onto good places, but there is a close enough position that works.
For installing, I slip the axel in as far as it goes by hand, then use the big nut, washers and spacers to pull it back together. Once the nut bottoms, back it off, put in a different stack of spacers / washers, tighten up some more. Watch out for the spring washer, it likes to stick to the step in the axel. I have a spacer from a 76 that is slightly shorter than the EA82 spacer that helps with this. A piece of pipe the right size should work also.
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Thats easy enough, any one know if a clutch alligner is necissary?
I have used the cheap wood ones. They work. The clutch disk needs to be pretty close to center for the pilot shaft to go into place. I don't know how else you are going to get the disk centered on the pilot bearing without one. Maybe with some fancy machineist tools. Unless you have a spare input shaft laying around?
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Ive done some CV's where i had to beat the snot out of the shaft to get it out of the hub.
That explains some of the CV's I have had to work on with buggered up threads! Doesn't matter if the shaft is junk, but I found a few on cars over the years...
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After you fill as stated above, it can still take 2-4 runs (cold, run till hot, park till cold) to get all of the air out. To check for air in the coolant, open the hood, listen near the thermostat housing. Squeeze the upper radiator hose. You should hear the jiggle pin in the thermostat. If there is air, you will hear it also. If your thermostat doesn't have a jiggle pin, get one that does, as this is the only way to check that coolant is actually in the engine without opening the radiator, letting in air....
I had an engine with a very small headgasket leak from a cylender to the coolant. Never heard air in the heater core, but could never get it out of the radiator. The engine ran normally. It took a while for it to get bad enough to figure out that the head gasket leak was the cause of the "air".
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I'm not sure how you can remove the half shaft *without* removing the brake caliper and the rotor. I drive the roll pin out of the hole on the transmission end (inner). Then remove dust shield, tie rod, stabilizer pivot joint, lower ball joint, then the 2 bolts that clamp the strut. Then remove the shaft with the the steering knuckle / casting together. I have always had to use my puller to remove the shaft from the bearings. Sometimes, doesn't take much, sometimes pretty stiff. Among 5 EA82s over >16 years, I don't remember one being loose enough to do as you descibe. Check them, but unless you beat on it with a BIG hammer, the bearings are probably ok.
Dave
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Sure, would therebe a small credit line for USMB & DaveT?
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I wanna get some air horns off of a train...
Mount them on the roof. Use the air compressor from the adjustable ride hight Subaru models. Have to check the pressure that can make vs what the horns operate on... Get a small air tank (not sure how big it would need to be, but it would have to be tested...) Use a solenoid to switch the air tank to the horns when the button is pushed.. It wouldn't be able to blow them continually, but a few blasts should cover most uses.
Dave
Trailer hitch for a 92 Loyale?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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I made the hitches (I have one on each car) about 15 years ago. They are so far away I would have needed a big piece of box tubing and brackets to go up....
My 76 had a weird hitch that bolted to the bumper, with a tab that also went up to the floor of the wagon. Really not very secure, especially because the bumper on a 76 is not very strong.
I knew that wasn't good enough, so when we got the newer car, I went from there. I knew if I put a lot of bolts into the sheet metal, I would get enough strength by spreading the load to a lot of area. I am thinking of doing a test to see how strong this hitch is once I get my "new" car ready to run.