DaveT
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Posts posted by DaveT
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Heres a picture of where I suspect its making contact.
(click picture to see big version)
Check the angle that the driveshaft meets the U joint at the diff. The diff should be about horizontal along it bottom. The driveshaft goes up at a slight angle.
Dave
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It goes clunk clunk clunk in time with the speed i am travelling. engaging the clutch, or putting it in neutral and coasting stops the clunking.
What does it do with engine brakeing vs acceleration?
I had the pinion bearings fail in a 4WD wagon - If you let it coast or engine brake it made horrific noises. I Drove it home by always keeping a little gas to it while stopping. Took it apart, the pinion was moving forward into the differential carrier but while under acceleration or up hill, the forces held the pinion back, so it ran ok. There were chunks of metal carved off of the carrier in the bottom of the case.
Dave
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Here is the heavy duty trailer hitch I made:
http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/hitch.html
When I retire this car and move it to the new 87, I'll see if I can come up with a "stress test" before I remove it.
It should either rip the rear 1/4 of the car off, or support the whole thing...Dave
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Nice work!
Any specific models/years to look at when solenoid hunting?
I know that an 86 Toyota sedan had at least one in it.
Whatever carbed sedans they were making around those years should have them. I am pretty sure it was a corolla:
When I got married, my wife had the Toyota. My 78 Subie was getting to the point of too rotten and started making bad noises from the transmission. We bought a 2 year old 90 Loyale. The A/C controls annoyed me because the selector forces you to draw in fresh air unless you choose A/C MAX. I saw the nice little solenoids in the Toyota, bought one from a dealer. Connected it to a switch on the dash, mounted on hte blanks to the left of the speedo. The solenoid selects fresh air / recirculated air. When the EGR solenoid failed I thought of the Toyota one that was still working. That's when I went to the junkyard. Not long after that, we sold the Toyota - we could never get it to run right - and bought the 86 Subie. I eventually sold the Toyota manual also.
Dave
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Mechanic said that the cam leak could cause oil to get on the timing belt which could cause problems. I can smell "burned" oil when I turn off the car.
Old Subaru with leaky cam seals = burned oil smell. My 92 used to leak so much oil that the smoke hazed up the 3 car garage. The oil sticks to the aluminum, flows back until it drips on the headers. Oil leaks also hep slow down body / frame rot.
I have not seen oil get on the timing belts. I have been running EA82 Subarus since the late 80s. Somewhere along the line, I found out that Subaru chaged the service interval on timing belts to 40,000 miles. I never had one last past 60K. When replacing timing belts, be sure to check the 2 tensioner bearings and the idler bearing.The seals get hardened by the heat of the engine. Also, there is an o ring that seals the aluminum piece that holds the cam seal in place, and it gets hardened also.
Dave
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And while we're on the subject, any thoughts on trailer hitches for the EA82 wagons?
I guess I'll have to make another addition to my web page.... give me a day or 2.
Dave
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so now that i have this topic how many of you have folding rear view mirrors on your ea82 subies?
All of my EA82 wagons have / had them. 86, 88x2, 90, 92. I have never noticed one without them.
Dave
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92 Loyale $150.00
Tbelts, water pump.
Gasket set to stop oil leaks.
Exhaust
2 fenders (originals rotted, remainder of body not bad yet)
All other parts (not many) came from my stash of parts from 3 parts cars.
The question is how much are you going to spend VS how long will it last?
I will replace / repair anything until the body rot gets too far gone. I really do not enjoy body work.
I always figure $1K over purchase price of a used car for misc repairs. The newest car I ever buy is 2 years old, and those are only really for my wife. She has a thing about "new & shiny".
Dave
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should add a bit more grunt,
Yes, slightly faster RPM increase. Similar, more dramatic effect by lightening the flywheel. Same would be true of lighter rims. Another, probably more noticeable modification would be an alternator unloader.
Might be a good thing to make custom diameters for the engine swaps where the normal cruise RPM of the new engine would be different than it's original drivetrain.
Dave
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I made a web page with my solution to the always failing Subaru EGR & Evaporative Emissions solenoids:
http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html
Dave
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Also, check carefully for rust on the tubing that the rear diff mount to. My 88 rusted to the point that the tube started to twist, lowering the front of the diff, causing it to hit the driveshaft. Initially, it was intermittant, only under certain loading from 4WD. The first time I got under to find the noise, I could not see any way the driveshaft could hit the exhaust where the shiny marks were. Nothing would move far enough by pushing and shoving. A few months later, it was no longer intermittant.
Dave
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2 row, all-metal, CSF, perfect OE mounting, has holes for auto tranny fluid.
Thicker than stock (since it is 2-row), so less room to work on front of engine.
I use the CFS 2 row turbo in all of my non turbo wagons - it is rated for more BTUs than the single row, and the cooling system is marginal on these cars anyway. I have to cut a couple of pieces of sheet metal in the front so it will fit the non turbo cars. I also change the A/C condenser brackets to block less air at the same time. Depending on the studs on the engine driven fan, I have had to shorten them.
Dave
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Dave i'd be interested in Part Numbers and the wiring mods you had to do.
-Brian
I'll see if I can get a couple of good pics in the next day or 2. I never had part numbers - I went to a local junkyard where they let me go looking at the Toyotas. There were 2-5 of the solenoids under the hood on them. The donors were similar age to the Subies. Take some of the Toyota vacuume line, and the little air filters that are on them.
The wiring is simple. Cut the connector off of the dead Subaru part, keeping the wire on the connector end. Cut the connector off of the Toyota part, keeping the wire on the solenoid. Each has 2 wires, connect one to one, other to other, doesn't matter which. I use heat shrink with a little RTV red smeared over the joint first to seal it.
I'll have to check the plumbing part, since the ports are slightly different from the Subaru ones. You need a good Subaru solenoid to figure it out. just have to trace the 2 air paths with the coil energised, and not energised.
Dave
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This might sound a bit silly but I don't have a set of taps or bits.
I fix stripped holes with the helicoils. The kit comes with a tap and i think the drill also - or at leat the recomended size. Car parts stores like NAPA also have individual taps for sale, a lot of the ones I have came with recomended drill size info. http://WWW.mscdirect.com has all kinds of tools, bits, taps, also.
Get some anti seize compound. Put it on bolts before re assembly. I never had one stick a second time. Even the timing belt covers. Be careful on tourqueing, sometimes it lets the bolts turn too easily while tightening, makeing the bolt tension higher than desired.
Dave
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35 Purge control solenoid
( whats this)First, do what the other replies suggest to verify the codes. The purge solenoid looks like the EGR solenoid. It is in the same area on the passenger side intake manifold. It controls when the evaporative emmissions system sucks the gasoline fumes previously captured by the charcoal cannister into the intake. I replace these with Toyota or Honda valves, since they don't fail like the Subaru ones. You have to make minor bracket mods and wire splices to the alien parts.
Dave
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All the subies I have owned since '76 had good dip sticks - I f you leave the car sitting overnight, you pull the stick and get a good reading.
Except our 01 Forrester. Oil is always up past the full mark, have to wipe it, then insert & remove, and get a trickey to read level.
Is this "normal"?
Thank you,
Dave
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I had a mouse nest in my 86 parts car. The critters moved almost all of teh under carpet padding to the HVAC ductwork and system..
Definatly yuck and don't breath the dust.
Dave
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I'd make an underbody car sprayer that I would drive over everytime I parked in the driveway.
That has been one of my "future projects" since I started building our new house yearts ago.
Dave
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shipping will be the ***************
Call Yellow freight. Ask about Exact Express. I just shipped a crate and a box with VW microbus parts across the country for under $200.00.
The crate was about 6-1/2 feet by 4 feet by 8", the box about the same length, but only 9x18.
Also, arrange to ship from loading dock to loading dock (or business addresses) to get this rate. Also consider dropping off if there is a local "office".
Dave
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Somewhere, a long time ago, I found there was an update to the timing belt interval. To change them at 40,000 miles. I had had them fail before 60,000 twice, before I found that info.
Dave
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Also, check out waxoyl and por15.
I have used waxoyl for years, and it stops rust. No good for visible areas, but a lot of the rust comes from inside and the seams where there are layers of metal.
POR 15 I just found, and have some, ready to apply.
Dave
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what would have failed to cause the heat blowing out plenty of hot air at 75mph to instantly changing to COLD air and the needle shooting towards the red as soon as I slowed to exit from the highway?
A long time ago, one of mine had a leak that was slowly loosing coolant. No puddles, no smoke, but it was evaporating so it snuck up on me. First notice was needle way up. Checked water, low. Add water, head home. Needle goes into red in about 1/2 mile @ 55MPH. Heater on High, idled to a parking lot, where I removed the t-stat, thinking it was stuck. More water, got home, seemed to run ok. But kept needing more water. After a 4) 16mile trips on the highway, I found out where it was going - the crank case.
Blown head gasket/s. Bearings and all were ok, so I put it back together. It burns about 1 quart of oil per week, (at least it doesn't leak any more:)) so the rings must be fried, but runs pretty normal anyways... Soon to be retired, as I have a couple other better engines around. I am using it to burn used oil from other cars until warm weather and engine swap.
Dave
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The vacuum modulator is on the passenger side. A little back from the front cat. The shift points seem to be higher RPM with an original modulator, the after market ones seem to lower them, and I end up using the selector to get them where I like. Usually 3500-4000 RPM for decent acceleration. I wind 2nd all the way up to 5500 getting on highways. 4000 RPM in drive is normal for 65 MPH. There is a switch on the gas pedal that delays / holds the gear you are in when the pedal is floored. It also causes a downshift if you floor the pedal while crusing. When I switched to 100% synthetic ATF in mine, cold weather no longer had an effect on the transmission.
Dave
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I have / had 4 various GL / loyale EA82 SPFI 3 speed AT 4x4 wagons.
All got:
Amsoil 100% synthetic engine oil and bypass filter, spin on oil filter, air cleaner.
Amsoil synthetic ATF.
Amsoil synthetic gear lube.
No oil changes. ATF every 100K.
All are over 180K miles. All got the synthetic switchover when originally acquired by me.
I usually use the selector as a shifter, *letting* it shift around 4000. Getting on the highway, the gas is floored, the shifts are around 5500. Often, (dirt or wet or hill) from a stop I pop the 4WD switch in until in second gear. When I get in a different car - my wife's Forester, dad's minivan, I get in trouble (wheel spin) because I am used to putting the pedal to the floor until up to speed.
Occasionally I tow 1000LBs trailer. Occasionally put 300Lbs on my full length roof rack. Occasionally haul around 500Lbs of audio equipment in the wagon - rubber bumpers touching the stops. Sometimes this with the trailer. I tends to drive calmer with the big loads, but still keep the shift points up to not lug.
I have had *no* engine trouble traceable to this use. *no* transmission trouble except the vacuum modulator, normal part to die every so often.
The '90 Loyale we have had since it had 15K on it. Somewhere around 160K, I pulled it to fix the leaky oil seals, head gaskets. The engine looks new, in spec crank journals, wrist pins. Hone marks still on cylinder walls.
The cars that have gone out of service have gone due to body rot and we lost one to an accident. The engine from that one (86) is now in my 92.
Dave
EA82 Solenoid Upgrade info
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
The oem ones I tried always lasted a few years, but the Toyota ones are still going, outlasting cars. I'll see what I can get the solenoid for, but I'll still need a connector from a dead one. The connectors I have are all on Toyota solenoids.
Most cars have similar solenoids. Any with similar sized ports and body should work, you just have to trace out the function. I only know about the reliability of the Toyota and round Honda ones.
Dave