DaveT

That is one of a few coolant hoses that many overlook. There are 7 hoses involved in the cooling system for an EA82 enine. They should all be treated as you would any other radiator hose, they all age similarly.

Every day more parts are nla. Start collecting parts cars, etc. Whenever you see them.

Get a similar thickness piece of wire, splice on to get length, add a 1/4" connector. Splice and use heat shrink on the joint. I clean the Flux off, then put a little rtv on the area, slide the shrink over it. Shrink it, the rtv will set and make it more water tight than just dry. If you have a scrap / spare harness, any of the connectors that use the 1/4" contacts will work. You can make a release tool from one of the metal strips.on the side of windshield wiper refill blades.

They are on the top of the heads. If you have EA82 engine.... Have to at least take off the cam covers to maybe see them. To get at them, might have to remove the carriers also. I have never tested them with cold temps and water. Don't remember reading anyone having to deal with them either. .

The idler bearing is a 6203, the tensioners are 6301. NTN number 6301 LLBC3/5C NSK number 6203DDUC3 the letters after the 4 digit size are how you get contact seals. You don't want the regular seals, or shields, which are what you get with unspecific description parts.

That's pretty much what you have to do.... Or you could try wiring a pot in it's place and manually adjust it to simulate it warming up. When I needed one 5 or so years ago, it was a dealer part, $90. Sounds pricey, but considering they last about 30 years, that's really not much.

If the mickey mouse gasket is from a dealer, it should be viton, or some other beetle than typical oring material. Don't mess with that. If there is a joint in the casting that it crosses, and there is a dip or something not smooth, a tiny dot of rtv is ok . The last time I got the cam orings from a dealer, they were similar better than typical oring material also. They don't get hard.

Back when you could only get them from Subaru, for $90 each, I made replaceable bearing tensioners. The originals, the bearing was welded to the stud / spacer . So now I just replace the bearings with high quality contact seal bearings. About $8 each back then. I can look up the sizes later.

If you don't have coolant dissappearing, I wouldn't touch the headgaskets. They can develop leaks from coolant to the outside. But you will have slow coolant loss for a long time before you have to deal with it, as long as you check the level and air in the upper hose to prevent running it when low. The idler bearings are usually good for about 50k miles, just like the belts. With the new seals - include the o rings behind the small pieces that the cam shaft seals press into. The shaft seal on the oil pump. After much debating and reading what others were doing re timing belt covers, I stopped using them. Years ago. I have had fewer problems since. One time, I even could hear the beginning of an idler bearing failure before it got bad enough to snap the belt.

Within a range. The different engines require different flow rates at different pressures, and the pump has to match the load.

The thing on the OEM pump is a pulsation damper. Not critical. There are 2 more up at the throttle body anyway.

I have also found it good to do this - once the belts are on, but before putting anything else back, run it for 5 seconds. Then put the crank in the proper position, reset the tension, turn 1 revolution, set the other. This lets the belts walk into the position they want to run in, and almost always, they end up a little loose if you don't do it.

Which engine model?

I'm not.sure what year they changed the naming from GL / DL to Loyale. My 88 and earlier were GL, 90 and later Loyale. Same car, with minor differences. The 80s were the fade over years, between the EA81 push rod, no timing belt engine and the EA82 overhead cam with the notrious timing belts.

I never had a squeek caused by the axle nut or bearings. Brakes, could be.

OHC is EA82 engine. Distributor on the back drivers side. Push rod EA81 distributor is up front. The timing belts and idler bearings are typically good for 50k miles, after that, they can fail without warning. Non interference either engine.

Many parts are NLA from dealer or aftermarket, so start collecting. The oem carbs are.very complicated and tricky. Most people running carbed ones seem to put in a weber. These engines do not like to be run low on coolant, if you do that, headgaskets are in you future.

You have to take the belt off to re position, also, I forgot to mention.

Oh, if you find it off a tooth, then yes, you have to loosen the tensioner, preposition the cam, and reset the tensioner.

Don't need to take them off if the marks are still lined up. It's a double check. Sometimes things move before you lock down the tensioners.

Possibly, one of the timing pulleys was off a small amount, 1 notch on a belt. Carefully line up the marks, and double check that they are where they are supposed to be. The center of the 3 ||| on the flywheel lined up to the arrow in the casting. The little hole in each cam pulley - one will be straight up, the other straight down. There is a notch in the back cover, at the top, to line up with. Rotate the crank one revolution, the up and down holes should be swapped, and the one at the top should be right on it's mark.

3 long then 1 short is 31. 3 long then 4 short is 34. It lists multiple codes sequentially.

I have never had to adjust the timing after replacing the timing belts. If it's off by that much, that it effect drivability, it's more likely one or both are off a tooth. I am assuming it ran fine before.

Long blinks are the 10s short are the 1s. Those sound like normal codes. Have to look them up to see what they are. Normal as in real, may or may not be why it won't start. Iirc, 34 is the egr solenoid, that won't keep it from starting.

The code led is up under the steering column. You have to remove the plastic kick panel to see the hole in the ecu where it hides.