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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. DaveT
    If I had one, I'd trade, but I skipped over that generation.
  2. DaveT
    Mine are not turbo. Turbo were MPFI also, iirc. Mine are SPFI. Been running and maintaining EA82 wagons since 1988. I've had several, since salt on roads in winter kills the bodies. Now that I have my house and shop built, I have more time to stay ahead of rust, etc.
  3. DaveT
    I would probably have bought it. Throw it in a car the next time I needed to swap. See what happens. Even if it runs long enough to reseal the original engine. But I have 2 EA82 powered cars, so if one has a bigger problem, well, it's not a huge problem.
  4. DaveT
    If you plan on keeping EA82s running, start scrounging parts everywhere you find any. Getting rarer every week. Be ready to replace timing belts and 3 idlers [or their bearings] every 50K miles. I have 2 wagons with SPFI EA82s, and shelves of spare parts, so I'm set for a while. Having 2 helps a lot, since almost nothing is a walk into a store and buy it off the shelf item, at least around here. When one needs repair, I have the other to drive. If your EA82 is carbed, it's not a big wiring nightmare, if it's SPFI, it is just as big a job as an EJ. Or you could put a weber carb on it. The EA82 carb is a nightmare if it's not working, from what I see in threads on here.
  5. DaveT
    I'm curious as to why that particular swap. EA81 simpler and more reliable than EA82. Iirc, you could put the SPFI from an 82 onto an 81. That would get you the slightly more power. Both EA engines have many NLA parts. Similarge amount of time and money spent you could put in an EJ that you can also still get parts for.
  6. DaveT
    The ECU only knows if the solenoid is open circuit for code 34.
  7. DaveT
    When a code is currently upsetting the ECU, you don't have to mess with the connectors. Just read the code/s. If the idle is all over the place, the CTS may be failing. It won't cause the CEL to light until it is really bad, but the car will run crummy long before that. The CTS is a 2 wire sensor on the intake manifold near the thermostat. Plan on getting familiar with doing your own repairs, and keep an eye out for parts cars, spare parts, etc. As more go NLA every day.
  8. DaveT
    let us know. You have to start somewhere. Although this project might be a big place to start...
  9. DaveT
    Anything simple and low cost gives you small amounts. Anything complicated and expensive is going to consume time and NLA parts. EJ swap is a big project and is 40% HP increase with no engine reliability penalty, and parts are available. How you use that power may be stressful to the rest of the driveline...
  10. DaveT
    Voltage getting to the coil? Voltages on both ends of fuses? I ask because I have found broken fuses that you cannot see the hair thin crack in the element.
  11. DaveT
    What do these solenoids look like? Any one from any car with similar sized and number of ports would probably work.
  12. DaveT
    Take off the manifold. Clean the faces. Set it in place, try a feeler gauge to see if you can pick up on how flat the faces are lining up to each other. You might need to use a set of gaskets while doing this, depending on clearances, etc. Maybe lightly installing a couple of the bolts
  13. DaveT
    They are not supposed to be into the coolant. Even if one [of the 2 near the coolant port] was drilled too deep, it would intersect a head bolt. The outermost one - on each end, those might eventually hit a coolant passage if you were to drill deep enough, but they do not connect in a stock head. The head bolts are not really sealed off from the crank case, but the head bolt and washer make it not really open either. In a stock head, if there is coolant in the space around an intake bolt, it is coming from a failing intake gasket, or crack or warp in the manifold.
  14. DaveT
    Just fix whats wrong. Unless you are saying something like excessive blow by is fouling the egr. At this point, finding a good engine that just needs a reaeal is the easiest way to go. EJ swap has all those advantages, but it is a lot more work than a drop in.
  15. DaveT
    I more of a keep it stock type. Except for when someone is wanting a lot more power, then the tables turn. These cars are getting rare, and many NLA parts, it doesn't make sense to do all kinds of experimental mods that may lead to breaking things that are hard to find...
  16. DaveT
    oil weight wouldn't cause that, but 20W-50 is too thick. 10W-40 unless you are in the arctic, or a desert.
  17. DaveT
    Verify timing belts are intact. Check the CTS. It can fail in ways that don't throw a code, but still make the engine run all kinds of bad. The coolant temperature sensor is the 2 wire bolt in near the thermostat, on the intake manifold. The single wire one is for the dash gauge. There should be a ground wire from the transmission to the body, the engine to the body. (near the alternator - one end is ona tab on the coolant pipe from the water pump) They are there to ensure complete circuits for many of the sensors and solenoids.
  18. DaveT
    Interesting. Well, that's a good thing, makes it easier to repair.
  19. DaveT
    I miss matched the diffs once. 4wd was pretty tricky driving. It still helped get moving, but forget cruseing in a straight line on snow. It wandered all over the place. And it bound up on wet or dry pavement, you could feel it. A lot worse than miss matched tires.
  20. DaveT
    The u joints are staked. I had a local drive shaft shop rebuild one of mine, so I know it can be done.
  21. DaveT
    Ej22 is the swap most do. A lot of work, but you get a more serviceable engine that parts are still available for. 40% more power, with no reliability loss due to turbo complexity and stuff like that. But custom adapter plate, clutch setup, wiring harness work needed . Lots of swap information on this forum.
  22. DaveT
    Noise is not normal. Failing universal joints can cause this kind of noise. Check them first. Wheel bearings can make a noise, but you can't tell condition by looking - unless you took the bearings apart. If the axle nuts were tight, and the seals were good, they are probably ok.
  23. DaveT
    Sounds like you have a stripped front hub. Put it in 2WD. Have someone look at the axle nut on the front wheel. Put it in gear. Check both sides. If the axle nut turns, and the wheel doesn't, there's your problem.
  24. DaveT
    water coming out exhaust while the engine and exhaust system are cold is not unusual. Some of the hydrogens in the hydrocarbons in the fuel end up combining with some of the oxygen, making water. You only see it because the pipe is cold, and it condenses. You are going to want to closely monitor the coolant level on the engine, at least until you begin to see that it isn't disappearing after every drive. Cold oil pressure is always high on a normal engine.
  25. DaveT
    No, it is shocking, but if everything else is right, there is enough slop in the existing holes. I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the hub forward, the tighten the bolts.
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