DaveT

Look at the trailing arm. Does it have 3 bolts on the side? If it does that's the adjustment point. If not then it's a version I am not familiar with. A FSM would have the information.

Anything with an EA82 engine will fit. Loyale and GL from at.least 86 through 94 . Legacy is totally different.

Extra connectors may also be for options that the particular car doesn't have. An example - my 86 came with manual side mirrors. My 90 came.with power mirrors. I got.a pair of mirrors and the dash switch from a local scrap yard. When I went to install them, the wiring for them was in the doors and the dash! All I had to do was plug them in. Instant upgrade.

I am not sure if an 84 has the same parts as an 86GL through 93 Loyale, but if they do, here is my thread on DIY alignment -

The differences should be small. just annoying things, like a wire color... Style of connector here and there. Some of the accessories. I never had an XT6, but several EA82 wagons. From 86 GL to 93 Loyale and have a complete FSM for an 86 and 90. Those are the kind of things I ran across.

Sounds like a good idea. I don't swap them just for timing bekts, but for a reseal, etc., that's how I do it. Get the spare engine all fixed up, then swap it in.

And the idler with teeth, low down on drivers side.

First question, confirm which engine it has. Keep in mind these are rare versions of cars that many parts are NLA even for the common versions. Finding a pro mechanic shop that will know what to do with one or even touch one is going to be a challenge and likely expensive.

Yes, there isn't much else but that button contact. Or if it were way off time mechanically, like if the distributor was pulled, and put back with wrong positioning like 45 degrees off.

given the situation, I'd run a filter before the pump, at least for a while until clean tank is verified.

Did you measure voltages on the fuses?

If you know where the fuse or breaker is for that circuit, you can pull it, and jump It with a brake light bulb. If there is a short, or low resistance path, the light will light, and you can go poking and wiggling wires, pulling down stream connectors, etc. Without risking more damage, or blowing a bunch of fuses.

The knobby thing on the end is a pulsation damper. The pump on the right would think can deliver more fuel at higher pressure than the SPFI pump on the left....

The dropping to 10psi is a problem. A non turbo SPFI starts to get upset a few PSI below it's set point of 21PSI. Forget running one at 10PSI.

If it tries to run on starting fluid or even carburetor cleaner, timing and spark is ok. Black wires with stripes are not grounds. If it is getting fuel and not firing, the plugs should be wet. If your used fuels pump was sitting for a while, it is probably stuck, and not running. I had 2 or 3 spares, so I thought, until the day I tried to use them. Every one was stuck. They were all working when I stored them.

Yep, that is one of the connectors in the solenoid circuit.

I can try later tonight

On the slightly newer EA82 powered cars, there is a micrswitch on the gas pedal mechanism. Check to see that it gets tripped by flooring it. If it does, check the wiring. I am gussing a bit, that the 83 might be similar.

Grease is a good idea. You want it on the seals also. Inside.

12v to ignition switch. Start contact to inhibitor / neutral switch. N S to starter solenoid. That is the starter wiring. 1 thick wire. Reading a schenaitic from an 86 FSM. There are a few connectors in the harness. All connections need to be good and solid, as the solenoid draws around 20 amps. There are no splits it the start wire, ecu is not involved with cranking.

The buttons work valves in a vacuum system that moves doors to rout the air to different vents. Temperature slider moves a blend door, via cable, that directs 0-100% of the air through the heater core, which is always heated by engine coolant. The vacuum system is fed from a small tank, white plastic, or older ones might be a black ball shape, over on passenger side under the hood. One small line goes in to the button assembly. You should hear hisses and things move if you change button settings immediately after shutting off the engine. I don't recall where the contact for the blower motor is, but also be aware that the lower speeds often stop working due to the resistors burning out. They are on a thing down by the motor, in the air path, with 4 wires connector.

Are you not getting heat, or is the blower not spinning?

I don't know what a stick does for RPM vs MPH. my 3AT autos do 4000RPM doing 65 on the highway all day, flat or gentle slope. Steep is kind of relative... But on the steeper hills around here in CT, I have the pedal pretty far down to maintain speed at 65, and if you slip below, it is hard to get back up there. EA82s are fine turning 4000RPM, they are not good lugging. They are made to spin fast.

Since you had smoke, there should be visible damage - melted insulation, singed, corroded connectors, etc. Have to get in there and look closely.

The cyclic clicking thing sounds like a thermal trip circuit breaker cycling against a short circuit. Got to find out the cause and stop it before it starts fire, or causes more damage.