DaveT

IIRC, 700 stick, 800 for auto.

Check the Coolant Temperature Sensor. It can cause all sorts of drivability problems, especially that vary or depend on temperature. And it can do this without causingthe CEL to light.

The 30 year old grease is dried up. Take covers off, get at the mechanisms, clean out old, put in new. I use synthetic, so they work the same winter and summer.

It is supposed to be at 20 degrees BTDC with the greens connected.

Usually I can get enough threads through to start a nut. Pull it till it bottoms. Put various spacers, washers, etc and use the nut each time until it's through.

Oh, something like that might be possible, I just haven't gotten to it yet. I could also make a part on my bridgeport. I have a few outdoor related things I'm trying to get wrapped up before it gets too cold, then I have to get back to that regulator.

I had started to plan out a plug in test panel, with meters, etc to do that kind of thing. Even gathered some of the needed parts. At the same time, ended up collecting enough spare parts that doing swap outs was easier.

The one I had fail was not leaking fuel past the diaphragm. I cheated, and swapped in a spare to "test" it. It ran better with the swapped one. My next step, is I have an adjustable regulator I plan on using. Have to figure the best way to disable the built in one. Then I could do tests and experiment to find the best pressure to run at. When I had the regulator problem on mine, it was starving for fuel. It just started stumbling badly, then quit while I was driving. I got off the highway, and started limping along back roads. Then it quit. I was about to call a tow truck, decided to crank one more time, and it fired. Limped it another mile or 2 to work, checked a few more things, and decided to head home early. It would go with light throttle, die if you tried to get on it at all. I have had my occasional battles with the OBD1 systems in these, but also, very long runs of no trouble at all. These are getting hard to run as daily drivers, because many parts are NLA. Part of why I have 2 that I keep in running condition, so I am not stuck while rebuilding an old part, or searching for a usable used one, or making one. Since you have decent fuel pressure, I suppose the injector might be having as problem. Don't remember - did you take a good look at the intake boot for a crack? If there were one after the MAF, it would be starved for fuel also.

Between filter and throttle body input? That sounds good, on the high side even. Iirc, it's supposed to be 21, and even a little low can start to mess with it. I would not replace the pump, as it is supplying enough. The regulator might be malfunctioning.

Yes, that has to be the sensor. It has to be close to where the port is. Air blowing through the passage - Probably could hear it if you hold the throttle wide open while someone injects the air into the valve port. The air passage from the EGR valve to the intake just opens into the intake passage, wherever it was convenient. Any back pressure on the air source would be a sign the passage is blocked. No big mystery there. I would have to try pushing the diaphragm thing tomorrow evening, when the car is running, and up to normal temp. And see what happens. The EGR solenoid disables the EGR valve - IIRC - to keep it shut while the engine warms up.

The resistor in place of the solenoid disables the solenoid, and make the ECU think it has a good solenoid attached. CA cars have a 2 wire temperature sensor on the intake to detect the EGR gasses. Non CA cars don't. I have never had to do any other testing. I have had the solenoid coil fail open - OEM ones almost always fail. I replace them with a Toyota or Honda solenoid from similar age cars. I am still running the SAME solenoids I swapped in 2 decades ago. Anyway, I never noticed any engine drive ability issues due to the failed solenoid. When you were blowing air through the passages, did it go through the one from the valve to the intake? You already proved the exhaust to the valve is ok.

Spare parts are always good to collect. Every day, more parts go NLA. Don't even try to remove the intake manifold bolts without running the engine up to normal operating temperature first, then CAREFULLY loosen them while it's hot. If the transmission is a 3AT, the oil pump drive shaft is a failure point to watch for over 200K miles. When the splines strip out, you have NO engine power to the wheels. After I bought mine 5 years ago, there were 4 left in stock in the USA.

Are all 4 tires the same brand and model and close in miles? If they are not, you will bet that on dry pavement, because there is no center diff. Even with identical tires, it will do it some.

I used a Carter pump on one of mine. Part number on another thread around here somewhere... Really nicely made pump.

Be very wary of running over temp i fit is low on coolant. Check the radiator for free flow. I've learned from experience & experiments - with a radiator out of the car, cap off all the ports, except the top one. Fill with water. Keeping the top port high, lower port low. Uncap the lower port quickly. The water should just about fall out, like it was a big fat pipe suddenly open. Check that the fine fins are actually soldered to the tubes, and the thing isn't blocked with crud from the road.

Before you replace the fuel pump, check the CTS. Coolant Temperature Sensor. It can fail in a state where it tells the ECU the engine is cold, and the ECU will send too much fuel to run when hot. No code, unless the sensor goes way out of valid reading range. Also, fuel pump is NLA, so you are looking at custom fitting a generic FI pump.

How I get the axle out of the hub- Remove the thin sheet metal brake shield. 2) 12mm head bolts. A BIG 2 arm gear puller can just get a hold on the housing in one position, and push on the end of the axle. That usually does it. Some are looser, and hammering on a block of 2x4 wood against the axle end will push it out. Do not use a hammer directly on the axle. Another thing, based on comments you made - the CVJ clicking can be on acceleration or heavy engine braking, and is usually affected by sharp turns. It's a crunchy clicky sound. Also, it goes along with a torn boot that has been open long enough to fling the grease out, and get crud in. A clunking - much heavier sound than clicking CJVs - that only occurs during engine braking /letting off the gas and the engine actually starts to slow the car down, that is different. I had one automatic transmission where the front differential ran dry of gear oil. The pinion bearing eventually failed, and the pinion would move forward and contact the differential carrier housing while engine braking. Ran fine under load or acceleration. If it is this, it should clunk twice per wheel revolution. Won't be affected by steering input. Will get worse until it's scary, making the car jumpy even. I have not seen a failure of the DOJs [the ones right on the transmission] in all of the time I've run Subarus, which goes back to the 1980s. The only thing I ever had to service on those was the boots, which would break and spew grease all over that side of the engine compartment.

If the choke isn't adjusted correctly, and working correctly, this is what you get. Be careful if you decide to do much inside the carb, they are complicated and picky.

If it's just a little bit, I'd try it. I have one I'm running that had just started clicking because the boot was torn, so I took it apart, cleaned it good, and reassembled. So far so good. It might make a soft click on tight manuvers once ona while, but nothing like when dry with open boot. If the bearing surfaces are nice and shiny, ok. All torn up, I'd scrap. I used the block of 2x6 with a hole in it, axle clamped in a vise to get the CVJ to pop off. Hit the block with a 1 to 2 lb hammer, 1 moderate hit should pop it off. Put something softish to catch it when it drops.

The HLA s. 1 or a few get stuck, or air sucked into the oil via the shaft seal cause them to not keep contact with the cam followers. So they tick. I am not aware of anyone having permanent damage from TOD.

Legacy and forester are very different.

If the car is a project [vs daily driver] you have only time to loose trying to fix the transmission you have. Set up a place to do the work. Take lots of notes. get service manuals. Don't rush, ask questions. Factory ones are best, but you have to search ebay, or find someone who can scan, etc. And you may end up looking for a transmission to take parts from, as many are NLA. Other option, is trying to find a working used one. Not easy either. Pay someone crazy enough to touch it to fix it, which is going to be difficult and expensive, because not only the expertise for an obsolete transmission, also many NLA parts.

Are the bearings OEM? How many miles? I've driven many past 200K miles without failure. Are the seals clean and flexible? If they are original, they are probably worn out. I don't replace the bearings, unless there is some good reason, like contamination, and cleaning them out reveals clicky sounds. And that has been extremely rare, considering I have been running 2 of these cars since 1988. Axles - used OEM, clean and regrease reboot. Aftermarket are junk.

Start keeping your eyes open for parts cars. More parts for these go NLA every day. Check the for sale sub forum for guys parting out, etc.

That is the problem with these cars. You pretty much have to do all the repairs yourself to keep them low cost. And that also means storing and collecting NLA parts. If that happened to one of my wagons, I'd go to the shed, pull out a bumper and bolt it on. Insurance wouldn't even know.