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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. DaveT
    What begin model does it have? Look for lettering on the block. Ea71 Ea81 Ea82 Or similar.
  2. DaveT
    I have never sold an intact EA82 car. Since my first one in 1988. The rusted out bodies end up going to the scrap metal yards. Parts of the previous 5 live on in the current 2.
  3. DaveT
    I have only done headgaskets on a handful of ea82s. Never seen a ridge. Always still have factory cross hatch Hone marks. Hoe deep are those marks? Not very, so probably hard to measure wear.
  4. DaveT
    I would be looking for something hanging up the throttle. Weak spring, sticky cable, binding throttle shaft. Stuff like that. Maybe the choke & high idle mechanism. Vacuum leaks and egr can cause problems, but I have never had or read of one causing idle to go to 5000rpm or even close. Those usually cause crummy idle, poor performance.
  5. DaveT
    I saw this when I didn't have time to write a reply, then it got pushed down far enough to loose track of... Anyway, The power thing, I had a flaky one, never got to troubleshooting it, the car got too rusted to bother. I ended up getting my 93 before I spent the time on the belt system. I have a set of the regular shoulder belts I intend to swap into my 93 that currently has the automatic belt, when they start to act up. I HATE those power belts. The lap belt, should pull out at normal speeds. If you pull it very quickly, it should lock. It's just a mechanical thing, RPM throws weights out [kind of like a governor] and engage a catch.
  6. DaveT
    Oh, nuts I just remembered I need to do this. I just shut down the pcs...
  7. DaveT
    The fan thermo switch is on the radiator. The sensor for the dash temp gauge is a single wire sensor with a hex head, screwed into the intake manifold near the engine thermostat.
  8. DaveT
    probably have to take the timing covers off to try to see what is leaking oil. If you intend to keep one of these running, you need to start collecting parts. And a factory service manual. And do the repairs and maintenance. And have another vehicle to use while it is down. Which is part of why I have and maintain 2.
  9. DaveT
    A short would make it read very high.
  10. DaveT
    Take a short piece of 2x6. Drill a hole for the axel it fit through. Clamp the axle in a vise, with the outer joint down, and the block sitting on the back of the outer cvj. One moderate hit with a heavy hammer should pop it right off. Put something to catch it underneath the end so it doesn't land on concrete.
  11. DaveT
    About 20 minutes into a 90 minute trip today, cruising on the highway at 65 MPH / 4000RPM. I glance at the gauges occasionally, and see the oil pressure near zero.... Like where it sits at idle. Initially alarmed, but wait - it's not clicking, running fine.. This continues to not change. Gauge must be lying. Later, I'm off the highway, 45 or so, and now the oil pressure reads normal. The trip home, worked normally. Guess I have a bad connection or flaky gauge or sender.
  12. DaveT
    On my wagon, that I converted to 4WD, it was chewing up the outside edge of rear tires. I made a simple alignment checking setup, [pictures in my thread on it] and found they were toed out over spec. I loosened those 3 bolts, and a ratchet strap to pull the hub forward, re tightened the 3 bolts. Much better now.
  13. DaveT
    It needs to be checked to be sure it is free flowing. And the condition of the fine fins and tubes. Also, if the hoses were original, make sure you find all of the cooling system hoses, and replace all of them. New radiator hoses don't stop a bypass hose that's 30 years old from failing. An EA82 engine has 7 cooling system hoses. The older ones had 1 or 2 fewer.
  14. DaveT
    Iirc, all of that stuff is on the side where the throttle cable connects to it. Passenger side.
  15. DaveT
    Check the choke thermo spring, shaft, high idle cam. Maybe sticky or broken?
  16. DaveT
    I had the lower ball joint do that noise.
  17. DaveT
    I never had an 84 - but none I had older or newer had a roll over switch. They do have control that shuts off the fuel pump if the engine stops running. You can bypass it to test, but I would not leave it bypassed.
  18. DaveT
    Body on that is way too good to scrap. Ig it only blew the head gasket, reseal it from them up. If it seized, or spun a bearing, get a used engine and reseal it pop it in. Or EJ swap it.
  19. DaveT
    If the thermostat is original, it is certainly old enough to be bad. OEM or the high end Stant thermostats are what I have used. They will have the jiggle pin. Normal operating temp is around 190 degrees, which is pretty uncomfortable to touch. A meat thermometer is a low cost option for testing.
  20. DaveT
    Oh, hmmm... If I had one of those, I would get an aftermarket recovery add on, and get the right kind of cap. Thinking about it, my 76 didn't have a stock recovery system, but I added one. I ran 76 and 78 models until I got my 86, which was an EA82 engine and those come with oem recovery tanks.
  21. DaveT
    Yes, on a first refill, there will be some trapped air that has to work out. Even with a 100% good system, it can take a few drive cycles to get rid of all of the air. The key is instant steady - but it can even be very slow - stream, or just never stops. If you get to where it isn't bbubbling from a start, idleing, etc. Re check after a short drive. Don't open the cap, only watch for the bubbles in the overflow at this point. When you open the cap, you let in air. Going forward, before each drive, check the level in the overflow, AND squeeze the upper radiator hose and listen for gurgling and the jiggle pin in the thermostat. Note the sounds, and look for less gurgling each time, if everything is well sealed.
  22. DaveT
    Miles don't kill headgaskets, overheat while low on coolant does. Temperature cycles do seem to wear them / limit life. The most common sign of hg failure beginning is small continuous supply of bubbles out the overflow tube into the tank. Sometimes, you might get a seep to the outside. The bottom edge is the oil return passage, no coolant passages down there. You might be lucky, since you saw no bubbles with the test run. Sometimes they survive, but not usually.
  23. DaveT
    Hmmmm, maybe it's time to buy a couple of sets.
  24. DaveT
    Oil condition rarely indicates headgasket integrity in Subaru engines. It's been rare on my experience to have coolant get into the oil. Around here, a radiator typically rots out in around 10 years. What matters - cap off the ports. fill it with water. Leave the cap off, highest point. Quickly release the cap on the bottom hose. The water should fall out fast, in a second or 2. Look at the thin copper fins that are vertically zigzagging between the tubes... are they intact, attached, and not blocked up with road crud? Especially look where there are sheet metal air guides for the fans. Are the end tanks metal or plastic?
  25. DaveT
    The sensor for the temp gauge is most likely a single wire thing that bolts into the intake near the thermostat. I skipped over EA81 engines, but I suspect that multiple overheats are just as bad for their headgaskets as they are for earlier and later engines. Most important thing to keep at 100% in Subarus is the cooling system. Radiator free flows, all the fins attached to the tubes. All of the various cooling system hoses maintained, not just the 2 radiator and heater hoses. System always 100% full of coolant, little to no air. Usually air is the initial sign of problems coming.
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