DaveT

The LED on the ECU should be blinking aregardless of test mode connectors. When all is well, it blinks a number of short blinks every few seconds. If it is not, check that the ECU is getting power.

Is the choke working?

Either one could be. Also, I have had tires partially fail due to bad alignment, where some of the tread separates from the steel belts. Makes a bubble in the tread, you can see if you jack the wheel you so you can turn the tire, and watch all the way around.

IT is a standard 62xx bearing. I've replaced a few of them. The ones with contact seals last a lot longer, but you have to go to a bearing supply shop, or search ebay / amazon for specifically that type of seal. Forget shielded. un specific seals are ok, but won't be as good / last as long.

Or spray a couple second shot of carb cleaner in the throat. If it runs for a second or 2, you know it has spark and timing.

Wouldn't hurt to check the engine ground wires. Does the fuel pump run for 2 seconds? Try diagnostic mode with the green connectors plugged together, it should cycle on and off with the key in the run position. Check the 2 multi pin engine harness connectors?

Check the choke and float levels. Having to hold it floored is a sign it might have flooded.

If the sticker is all broken up, solvent should be able to get at the adhesive a lot better.

Hmmmm.... heat might help, just have to be careful not to go high enough to damage the paint. One of those scraper things that uses a single edge razor blade might help with lifting it, but again, great care not to dig into the paint. Ypu might get the plastic sticker off, leaving the glue / adhesive. At least then, a solvent could get at it. It would take experimenting to find some thing that melts the adhesive without attacking the paint.

If the compressor runs / turns while the clutch is engaged, the clutch is working. The clutch is enabled as needed, varying by the demand on the A/C system.

Yes, XTs are rare. Even the "regular cars" of that time frame, which were related - the EA82 powered cars - a lot of parts are going No Longer Available. Both OEM and aftermarket. I don't know enough about XTs to be certain of which parts are interchangeable with the EA82 models I know well, although many are.

Oh, my... Maybe try hooking up a regular compressor, just to air it up, and see if it works at all. The struts / shocks etc are rare as can be, from what I've read. Most people seem to end up installing conventional ones. Even those might be getting hard to find.

The compressor is inside one of the fenders.

I have used helicoils on mine, with good results. Yes, make sure the drill and tap are perpendicular to the face.

Cleaning the steel with these kind of etching techniques will leave the surface very pure, and quick to oxidize. Great for something to paint. Not so much for chain, which normal use and handling will quickly destroy paint. Coating it with an oil that doesn't evaporate would keep it from rusting for a while, but attract dirt, so a trade off there.

I never tried it on steel. But I have used white vinegar with salt to clean copper. Makes it look new. Just let it soak, then rinse.

I'd probably go up 1 screw size. Get a proper tap to cut new threads. They do make helicoils for those tiny screws, just don't think I'd trust them in that application.

I've been running all season radials for quite a while, as I hadn't found much choice in the last decade or so.... I did get a surprise a month or so ago, when just for the heck of it, I asked the guy at BJs what they had for 13" tires.. they can order in about 6 different tires, from a few different manufacturers. I hadn't cone across a choice bigger than 2 to 3 since I don't remember when.

Check the sight glass while it's running, after a decent time. As in, not 1 minute after starting. When it's warm enough to want ac running weather wise. Some bubbles is in the normal ish level. Solid no bubbles is close to over charged. Just a stream is under charged. Not exactly the factory method, but it's worked for me for years on various systems.

I'd pull it down again, it might be some water vapor? It really shouldn't rise back up, unless there is a leak or water or air getting pulled out of the oil. I never held one that long though, so just being careful.

Since that is the low side, double hose clamps might do ok. Under normal operating conditions , it will be cool, and only around 40 or so psi. When shut down, it will rise to 100 and something. A lot less problematic than the high side, witch can be very hot and near 300 psi.

Some local stores can make custom ones. The evaporator is the heat exchanger in the heater system. Do you mean the fitting was cut off of that? So it's just got a hacked off hard line going into the firewall?

The grease get dried out and thick. On the tracks. In the gearbox. Clean off the old stuff, apply new. Same with the gearbox.

I spent a fair amount of time trying to find the high resistance problem the first time I ran into it... carried around a cable with a pushbutton so I could start the car if the intermittent got so bad I could be stranded, which I gradually had to use more and more often. Then gave up, and did the relay mod, as found on here. Never had a the problem again. It's just one of my standard minor upgrades if I get a new body now.

There is no relay in a stock 92. It is a common failure for a connection in the circuit that applies power from the start position of the key switch, through the transmission safety lockout to the back of the starter to become high enough resistance to make a click from the starter, but not enough power for the solenoid to pull in far enough to close the contacts that apply power to the starting motor. There are a bunch of threads about "the relay mod" on this forum. You can verify that the cause is this by using a medium size piece of wire from the little terminal on the starter solenoid to the + battery terminal. If it cranks, it's this common problem. The other click no crank is caused when one of the contacts in the solenoid wears away enough so that it no longer makes reliable contact when closed.