DaveT

There is nothing fancy in the control system. You can wind reverse up to red line just as well as 1st gear, but it might be hard to steer well... There are failure modes that will let it seem normal at low power demand, then hit a wall / limit if you try for more.

There is an impulse damper on the pump. I have had a couple rust off, capped the hole, and everything kept running fine. I can look up the aftermarket pump I got last time I needed one, it's very nicely built, and a lot less than the no longer available OEM pump.

The egr solenoid is open circuit. Not the problem. Fuel starvation or plugged exhaust will make one very weak, but direction shouldn't matter. ... Moves in reverse, but no forward. That is odd.

You got lucky if that's the only place they got to. Mine, they had made nests and left crap all through the duct work and the heater core / blend door assembly. And chewed the seals [foam] off the blend doors.

I don't know that system specifically, but there is a switch somewhere that enables / turns on a/c. Then there are likely safety cutouts. Usually at least an overpressure switch on the compressor output side, something to detect a locked rotor condition on the compressor. Some have a thermoswitch on the evaporator to shut the compressor off when it is cold enough for conditions. Any of these could be malfunctioning. Really need a factory service manual for that model. Or hopefully, someone has dealt with it.

The rears have the same nut as the front, at least for 4WD. 145 sounds familiar. Up in that range.

Front or rear? They are different. Front are ball bearings, rear are tapered roller bearings. If the axle nut is not properly tightened, with the cone and spring washers properly placed, it's not good. If everything is correct, it is not normal for them to wear out frequently. 150K - 200K miles is not uncommon.

Every OEM alternator [I've had several] I have ever had wore out one of the field brushes around 150K miles. The Alternator light never came on, except if you were in total darkness, at idle, with the lights of, sometimes it would glow dimly. Using a test voltmeter, put the probes on the battery. with the engine running, you should see around 14V if it is charging. Anything under 13.8 is not charging. Battery at rest [rest means no load or charge for at least 24 hours] 12.0V is fully discharged. 12.6V is fully charged.

I don't think any of the big heater parts need to come out before the dash. [been too long] The steering column does have to be unbolted from it's anchor points so it sags down. There is a bolt in the center under a snap in cover, like the ones on either side, right up near the windshield. No this is not a fun project at all.

You mean you removed the e brake cable from the arm on the brake assembly? When you did this, did the arm move ? They noreally have some free play that let's the arm move enough to get the cable end out of the pocket. Other option.... remove the 2 17mm hex head bolts that hold the entire caliper and sliders . More way it can move to slide off the rotor. Heavy soft face hammer. Big screwdriver between outer edge or rotor and caliper C.

Hill holder would have a valvery up near the master cylinder, linked into the clutch by a second cable.

Parking brake is on both front calipers. Definitely worth checking to see if that is stuck.

I have removed 2 out of 3 successfully. The 2 that came out undamaged I used a guitar string as a cutter. One of the lower note strings for an electric guitar with the wrapped layer. Extend it with a couple feet of additional wire, and add 2x2 .woodblock handles. Remove the dash and all the trim, inside and out. Getting it started is a bit tricky, you have to find a place you can poke it through before adding the second extension. Then it's just hard work sawing your way around. Pay attentionto the angles so the wire is only rubbing the sealant, not edge of glass or car frame. Tension is up near the limits of the guitar string. Not easy work.

Yes, NE is tough. The bolts are hard high strength, not like the body bolts that snap a lot easier. Soak em, work them out gradually. Might help to wire wheel the threads on the backside, as they are exposed. Finer wire, rather than coarser.

I had them apart when I converted this car to 4wd, so they had anti seize on them. They were properly tight, but no problem. For a car where they have not been moved in 30 years, I'd be inclined to hit them with a good penetrating oil, and let them soak for a day or so... Iirc, I used my impact wrench for disassembly.

Exactly that. Wearing the inside edges of the tires quickly.

It's a pain. But I was getting bad tire wear.

If you remove the rear tire, you can see the trailing arm. Where it bolts to the part with the axle bearings, there are 3 17mm hex head bolts. Loosen them, pull the hub forward to toe in, rearward to toe out. I used a ratchet strap to get enough pull. Tighten the bolts, remove strap, reinstall tire, re check alignment.

Checked and adjusted the front toe. IT was in a bit close to the max. Picture is of checking the rear toe, it's out past the max, so I adjusted it in. Surprising how little it moved to get close. Big pain is having to remove the tire to get at the bolts.... I made 4 small plumb bobs to get pointers near the tape measures. Want ridged "rulers". Want something less fussy than dangling weights, but for now, it works.

No vacuum would make it take a lot of force to stop. Also, a leak that big should make the engine run crummy. Still should replace old hoses anyway.

FWD struts will be a little lower ride height. Maybe an inch. I've been driving these since 1988, never had a broken motor mount, so I don't know what kind of noise that would cause if any. Open the hood. Start it. Stomp the brakes down hard. Put it in gear, apply moderate gas pedal, watch the engine. If one is broken, it will move considerably, should make a noise when it hits stops. At least that is what I saw decades ago on a big ol' American car with a broken mount.

I can't tell from that angle.... The marks are on the face of the flywheel that faces toward the front of the car. There should be a V [but with one edge vertical] in the opening revealed by removing the rubber plug. That vertical edge is the mark. The degrees and zero are embossed on the flywheel. Depending on the type of engine and fuel delivery, there may be wires or hoses to plug / unplug / connect. to set or check timing.

The timing marks are viewed through an opening in the bell housing behind the carb or throttle body. There should be a black rubber plug covering it.

Does the noise vary with engine rpm or ground speed? Exhaust leaks vary with rpm and throttle - heavy makes it louder. Other general thing, new after market axles often make noise out of the box, or in very short time frames, from many experiences I have read on here. But it is usually ticking /clicking noise.

Sounds about the right tempo for a failing CVJ. Is this a new to you car, or did the noise recently develop? Failing CVJs can make a variety of noises and sensations, come and go with wheel RPM, sometimes hard turning / steering angle - depending on how far gone they are. Are they OEM, or aftermarket? On OEM ones, the outer shells are painted dark green. If the big nut that holds the axle to the hub is loose, it can cause varying noises also.